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How Perfume is Saving Haute Couture {The 5th Sense in the News}


christian-dior-fall-09.jpgAn article in Le Monde summarizes the state of Haute Couture in the aftermath of the Christian Lacroix crisis. The figures are contrasted: haute couture caters to the material needs of a money elite that amounts to about 1000 persons worldwide but is needed as a motor of creation by others. At the same time haute couture would never be able to survive without the revenues that come from perfumes and cosmetics which amount to 60% of its gains...

(on the left, a look from the Dior fall 09 collection via WWD)

Another interesting note is one offered by a consultant to Bernard Arnault the CEO of the #1 luxury group LVMH, which owns fragrance brands like Marc Jacobs, Kenzo Parfums, Parfums Givenchy, Parfums Christian Dior, and Guerlain. Jean-Jacques Picart plainly explains that it is time to realize that fashion is not an artistic profession, but a commercial one and to swtich from the status of artist to that of a merchant.

"L'heure de changer de tactique a-t-elle sonné pour Christian Lacroix, comme le suggère Jean-Jacques Picart, de JJP Conseil ? "L'heure de passer du statut d'artiste à un statut de commerçant, notre métier de mode n'est pas de l'art mais du commerce", précise le consultant auprès de Bernard Arnault, PDG du groupe LVMH, son plus gros client. Les succès ont tous été ceux des créateurs qui ont accepté les règles de l'argent. Non pas en jouant le jeu directement mais en laissant les autres le faire à leur place : des Pierre Bergé pour Saint Laurent, Sidney Toledano pour Galliano chez Dior, ou encore Yves Carcelle pour Marc Jacbs chez Louis Vuitton."

Read more in Le parfum assure la survie de la haute couture...

Thanks to Y for the tip!

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