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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

November 2009 Archive

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November 2, 2009



The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is...


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And the winner* of the Filles des Iles perfume draw is...Tammy!


Thank you all for participating. I loved reading your answers and I am sure others did as well. I will format all the suggestions into a Perfume List with your names next to your favorite(s) or scent cravings. And why not keep doing that next time around?

Stay tuned for more giveaways!

* Winner was picked thanks to random.org



Auric Blends Naturals Layla, Pele, Siren, Tara (2009) {New Perfumes} {Green Products}


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Auric Blends, which are well-known for their budget, accessible and sexy perfume oils have now turned to all-natural perfume-making. You might have heard of their #1 best-seller Egyptian Goddess, a soft feminine musk scent, but also more recently of their #2 best-seller Love voted my fave in 2007 for Valentine's Day now repackaged in pink to make the charm work better. 

The brand have released a quatuor of new fragrance oils which play the green, eco-conscious card that so many are attracted to these days and for good reason. It's just that sometimes marketed compositions are still a bit medicinal, in an involuntary way, or too simple. It's not always easy, but Auric Blends which specialize in simple mixes should not disappoint for the latter part at least. At the same time, I see more and more sophisticated eco-certified blends appear, especially in France...

Continue reading "Auric Blends Naturals Layla, Pele, Siren, Tara (2009) {New Perfumes} {Green Products} " »

25% Off at Kenzo USA {Shopping Tip}


Friends-Family.jpgFrom November 2th to November 9th, Kenzo is offering a 25% Friends-and-Family discount to TSS readers at kenzousa.com.

Just enter code 09FAMILY

Winter Skin On My Mind: Caudalie Moisturizing Cream-Mask Face & Eyes {Beauty Review} {Beauty & Olfaction}



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In this series, Winter Skin on My Mind, I will look at hydrating products that are hopefully efficacious for women, men or children. They are not necessarily the same, but looking at a jar of cream from a family perspective can yield unsuspected results like when I discovered that my tyke's German diaper cream could officially double as a face mask.

I have had winter skin on my mind since the end of the summer holidays what with the dehydration due to the sun and greater outdoor exposure. So, as soon as I was able to study the shelves of my local pharmacies I decided to give a product by Caudalie called Moisturizing Cream-Mask Face & Eyes/Masque Crème Hydratante Visage et Yeux a go.

The brand is well-known by now for its use of the antioxydant power of Bordeaux winemaking by-products such as grape rape or seeds. What is now termed vinotherapy has become a sort of sub-field of beauty treatments including spa ones.

Caudalie (koh-da-lee) is a lovely musical word in French that has an even lovelier meaning: it refers to the vintner's unit used to measure the span of time in which a flavor is felt in the mouth until it fades away. A caudalie or cdl lasts for 1 second. The longer the lingering aromatic sensation, that is the number of caudalies, the better, the more flavorful...

Continue reading "Winter Skin On My Mind: Caudalie Moisturizing Cream-Mask Face & Eyes {Beauty Review} {Beauty & Olfaction}" »

November 3, 2009

MAC Cosmetics Suntints SPF 20 Liquid Lip Balm in Lilt of Lily (2009) {Beauty Review} Reviewing Lip Balms {Beauty Notes}


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My method for reviewing lip balms is simple: buy, try, stash, live with it, conclude. What this means is that it is very easy to impulse-buy lip balms at every turn of your busy life because you forget them at home, because the weather is suddenly really, really dry and you need a super-powered balm, or simply because there is a new one with a cute packaging that you just spotted at the cashier's register; those little nothings are always placed at strategic locations to make you realize about their existence at the last minute of your shopping spree.

There are so many of them, in your basket and in the world at large, that it seems futile to try to keep track of them. But what is very helpful is that the gesture of applying lip balm is actually quite instinctual, a little bit like licking your lips to hydrate them momentarily (don't do that of course, it will make matters worse!). So what I do is I allow things to settle. The ones that really matter have a way of floating back up to the surface and you have to conclude after some time has elapsed that the settling is done and that this lip balm has something to say for itself because you did not forget about it at the bottom of your stash and it is actually useful. You tend to have a grateful thought for it. You actually enjoy using it. And you know it has a clear defined goal and a repeatable effect you look forward to recreating...

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Continue reading "MAC Cosmetics Suntints SPF 20 Liquid Lip Balm in Lilt of Lily (2009) {Beauty Review} Reviewing Lip Balms {Beauty Notes}" »

The Comeback of J. Grossmith Son & Co Perfumes {Fragrance News}



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A 19th century British perfume brand that few remember today, Grossmith, has been re-established by a descendant, Simon Brooke, with the help of perfume expert Roja Dove.

J. Grossmith Son & Co which has had slightly differing company names since 1835 the year of its original establishment was a contemporary of familiar-sounding fragrance brands to the contemporary ear like Eugene Rimmel, Yardley, Jean-Marie Farina or more obscure ones like George Payne from the Isle of Wright and T. W. Fisher & Co.

One of their bestsellers seems to have been Shem-El-Nessim the Scent of Araby. When looking at advertisements for Grossmith perfumes, one cannot but be struck by how they carried the prejudices of its time offering some of the most colonialist imagery I have seen, and certainly as appearing behind the name of a fragrance.

For Wana-Ranee the Perfume of Ceylon and in 1918 it won't do if the perfume is not presented as a quasi devotional offering by a deferential Indian woman who is either on her knees or hunched and extending her arms from afar (in terms of social distance hinted at by her gesture) towards a group of Blond, European maharanis as if all English women ought to be ideally blond as cherubs. It is unsettling to the modern eye and we see that Grossmith was a great supporter of the British imperial crown...


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Continue reading "The Comeback of J. Grossmith Son & Co Perfumes {Fragrance News}" »

Frederic Fekkai Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Perfume} {Beauty & Olfaction}

fekkai-femme-sensuelle.jpgCoiffeur to both celebrities and grateful Sephora-goers Frederic Fekkai has launched his first personal fragrance called Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum. It is part of the brand's Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Collection which wishes to weave together functionality and olfactory hedonism, pairing beauty and olfaction.

To spice up things, the tag line in the form of a message of affirmation is printed on the bottle in Fekkai's handwriting and with his autograph, "The spirit of a woman -- revealed."

Next time, I suggest selling an erasable pen that can be used on a specially studied surface on the perfume bottle so that one could add one's favorite quote of the moment and absorb it while spritzing...

Continue reading "Frederic Fekkai Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Perfume} {Beauty & Olfaction}" »

LL Bean Personalized Ice-Cream Bowls for Red Heads, Blonds, Dark & Light Complexions Etc. {Beauty & Society}


Katie-Light-Skin.jpgI was browsing the LL Bean catalog when, lo and behold, my eye caught sight of a pair of bowls that initially attracted my attention because they look like an American adaptation of the personalized bowls found in Brittany, France in the Quimper region. Kids love those and especially to see their first names on them. They look like the picture below which is the traditional model for the "bol à prénom breton."

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The LL Bean ice-cream bowls reveal the lineage in the color pattern and especially the way the rim is decorated with sponged blue color, and of course the idea of having your name painted on the ceramic...

Continue reading "LL Bean Personalized Ice-Cream Bowls for Red Heads, Blonds, Dark & Light Complexions Etc. {Beauty & Society}" »

New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways}


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Double Reader Giveaway today!

You will be automatically entered to win a set of AminoGenesis Gone in 60 Seconds and NuNaat Karité Special Hair Mask when you answer the question in the comments: what are your main skin and hair concerns these days? Or is there someone close you would like to help on a beauty issue? Or alternatively, what is on your beauty wish list this season?

"New for Winter 2009, Gone in Sixty Seconds by AminoGenesis Skincare is an instant wrinkle filler that contains a scientific blend of oxygenating peptides, micro-collagen and firming proteins that tighten, firm and reduce puffiness all day long. Advanced patented technology time releases key ingredients all day long..."

Continue reading "New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways}" »

November 4, 2009

Scented Quote of the Day, from Celine Lheritier: Why Functional Perfumery is Cool


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Ten years after having graduated from the school of perfumery ISIPCA, young perfumer Céline Lhéritier now at Colgate remembers how she fell in love with her chosen specialty:

"A l'époque la parfumerie fonctionnelle était peu mise en avant, pourtant elle m'attirait davantage que la parfumerie fine. Il y a plus de défis à relever, techniques, réglementaires, budgétaires. Et puis on participe au réveil de quelqu'un dans sa salle de bains, alors que la parfumerie fine est plus élitiste. [...] Au Mexique par exemple, les détergents pour les sols sont très parfumés, car ils servent aussi de désodorisants d'intérieur."

Check out my translation after the jump...

Continue reading "Scented Quote of the Day, from Celine Lheritier: Why Functional Perfumery is Cool" »

Nature et Decouvertes Nectar de Sajara, Bulle de Yuzu, Seve de Wenge (2009) {New Perfumes}


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Nature et Découvertes (Nature and Discoveries), the chain of stores specializing in natural lifestyle founded in 1990 by François and Françoise Lemarchand is in the process of developing their beauty corners. They have just released a debut trio of perfumes that are eco-certified 100% natural and even more, they are made out of a proportion of 83% to 85% organic ingredients.

The fragrances are called Nectar de Sajara (Sajara Nectar), Bulle de Yuzu (Yuzu Bubble) and Sève de Wenge (Wenge Sap) and are part of a collection entitled Esquisses de Nature (Sketches of Nature)....

Continue reading "Nature et Decouvertes Nectar de Sajara, Bulle de Yuzu, Seve de Wenge (2009) {New Perfumes}" »

November 5, 2009

Lubin Parfumeur Has a New Website {Fragrance News}


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Lubin, perfumer since 1798, have completely relooked their website. Entering it now is like walking through different rooms, galleries, or atmospheres also created by varied musics and animations. The text clarifies some sources of inspiration like the medieval one for Le Vetiver. History is used to legitimize the brand...

Continue reading "Lubin Parfumeur Has a New Website {Fragrance News}" »

Scented German Calendars {Fragrant Shopping}


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Apparently, the Germans love their calendars to be more than visually appealing, they also appreciate a little scratch-and-sniff action.

You can find a series of such scented calendars called Duftkalendar on the Germany site of Amazon, Amazon.de. They either revolve around a theme, Spices and Herbs or Fruits or are more generalist. Each page offers a picture of the ingredient or bouquet of the month as well as a rubbing spot for you to release the aromatic molecules...

Continue reading "Scented German Calendars {Fragrant Shopping}" »

Design Thierry Bogaert Voile de Beton (2009) {New Perfume}


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If you love architecture and deplore our loss of connectedness to our sense of touch not just to smell, you will have to check out this new perfume whose core concept was created by architect Thierry Bogaert. The idea for him was to propose a "...synthesis of his love for matter, form and the sensuality of perfume."

Voile de Béton (Veil of Concrete) is an artisan-made concrete structure designed by Bogaert who is passionate about the material and has used it in urban design. Each unique concrete veil resembling that of a boat shelters a bottle of the perfume going by the same name. The scent is described as a unisex fragrance...

Continue reading "Design Thierry Bogaert Voile de Beton (2009) {New Perfume}" »

Two Versions of the Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci Commercial + The Behind-the-Scenes {Perfume Images & Adverts}


There is apparently a cute, girly and mischievous version of the TV commercial for Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci featuring model Jessica Stam. It plays either in English or French. Here is the French version,



T
hen there is an alternate version which is sultrier in style thanks to just the change of music and suddenly you start noticing the character's leather gloves much more (they are also more the focus of attention of the camera). It feels a bit more rock n' roll too..

Continue reading "Two Versions of the Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci Commercial + The Behind-the-Scenes {Perfume Images & Adverts}" »

November 2009 Archive

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Latest Comments

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

abdellab mahmoudi on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : bonsoir c'est vrai que c'est un parfum à la fois doux et ...

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