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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb (2011): Spicy Boys & Flowery Girls {New Fragrance} {Men's Colognes}

victor-and-rolf_spicebomb_ok.jpgThe designer duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren better known as Viktor & Rolf will launch a new masculine fragrance more than four years after having introduced their first men's potion called Antidote. The new perfume is called Spicebomb in reference to their pillar feminine fragrance, Flowerbomb.

To create the new masculine pendant to it, they decided to codify perfumed manhood as being convincingly expressed by spices - nothing absolutely new here - except that an intense focus on spiciness might help further characterize what a masculine scent is all about. Perfumer Olivier Polge, who already created Flowerbomb, went back to the drawing board for Spicebomb....

He preferred to emphasize what is perhaps less commonly felt for a men's scent, namely the fact that it could be experienced as an explosive jus. Men's colognes are most commonly offered in eau de toilette concentration - an enduring step-up from the discretion of the after-shave - and in general tend to be tuned down, with a number of notable exceptions, when compared with their female counterparts.

But Olivier Polge has already helped redefine that self-effacing mode in masculine perfumery with Dior Homme, a willfully textural iris perfume for men.

The nose decided to bring out the potentially unconventional aspect of a perfume being touted as a "spice bomb". He conceived two main accords meant to be polar opposites to each other. The first one was dubbed "fiery" and "addictive"; it rests on notes of chili, saffron, leather, tobacco and vetiver. The second one was tagged as being "icy" and "explosive" with the help of notes of bergamot, grapefruit, elemi and pink pepper. The latter note is said to be a "key" one. You might be reminded of Bang by Marc Jacobs at this point for its heavy reliance on pepper, albeit black pepper.

The perfumer said that “Viktor and Rolf wanted an extroverted, outspoken fragrance,”so that it might be less in-your-face than implied by the suggestive name.

The action and dynamism of the perfume will be suggested, besides its name and notes, by explosive shelves that will mimic an explosion of perfume. The bottled is a stylized hand-grenade by Fabien Baron: as we always say, "Do not make war, wear perfume."

Model Sean O'Pry in the ad by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin was made to look almost like a Manga and is reminiscent of the aesthetics of Avatar by James Cameron.

"The scent will first be launched on Jan. 23 exclusively in Harrods in the U.K. and in Bijenkorf in the Netherlands. Then it is to be introduced elsewhere, including a mid-February debut in France and a March 1 kickoff in the U.S.

The 90- and 50-ml. eau de toilette Spicebomb sprays will retail for $95 and $75, respectively. The 200-ml. shower gel is to be $28, and the 100-ml. aftershave balm, $48."

Via WWD

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Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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