Thierry Mugler are introducing what many will see as a surprise new iteration of A * Men (1996) called A * Men Ultra Zest. It turns the original woody oriental upside down so to speak, bringing out its adaptability as a citrus opus...
The A * Men series of flankers is pretty elastic in spirit but this goes a step further in the direction of sensory disorientation making it sound almost like a Comme des Garçons concept. Thierry Mugler however is well-recognized as one of the most creative brands in perfumery and so they know how to develop fresh ideas - pun, not intended.
The new composition is co-signed by perfumers Jacques Huclier and Quentin Bisch of Givaudan.
The top opens on notes of tangerine juice, blood orange, ginger and mint. The heart features coffee, cinnamon and black pepper. The base rests on vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli.
Reading the notes on paper does not yield much in terms of a vertical hesperidic structure to the perfume. It looks like the citrus notes are still classically located in the top to freshen up the scent.
The visual aids to the understanding of the fragrance - the packaging is a saturated orange - as well as the name however suggest the more significant presence of a citrus core.
SMRP is 74€ for 100 ml.
As it happens, we put together a list of orange fragrances recently to celebrate the new year thanks to the dynamism and the value of change the shade is meant to convey.