The Buzz

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Helena Rubinstein Wanted

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

Natori by Josie Natori

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter

My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


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October 2006 Archive

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October 10, 2006

New Perfume: Paprika Brasil by Hermès

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The Hermessence collection of olfactory poems now includes a sixth opus by the in-house perfumer, Jean Claude Ellena. It was inspired by Brazil wood or ember wood and the work of French anthropologist Lévi-Strauss, Tristes Tropiques. It was conceived of as a unisex fragrance.

Top notes are pimento, clove, paprika. Heart notes are iris, green leaves. Base notes are reseda, ember wood, woody notes.

The perfume is exclusively sold in Hermès boutiques. 

Source: Ozmoz 

Fragrant Reading: The Smelling Committee of 1891

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Notcot, one of my favorite design catalogues, ran a piece recently about a Smelling Committee that was set up in 1891 to investigate the olfactory identity of Brooklyn. This makes for a delightful and interesting read. Article is by Caitlin Berrigan and tells us also about the recent reenactment of that initial experience which took place, anew in the Brooklyn neighborhoods, in September 2006...


Continue reading "Fragrant Reading: The Smelling Committee of 1891" »

Scented Thoughts: On Chandler Burr's Take on Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

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I just went reading Chandler Burr's latest reviews of three fragrances in the New York Times: Puissance 2 Jean Paul Gaultier, Dzing! L'Artisan Parfumeur, and B*Men by Thierry Mugler. In it, the author develops the idea that these perfumes are to some extent reflections of a range of olfactory notes found in construction works. They all get 3 stars for succeeding in doing that.

I can only speak for Dzing! to say that I think it deserves better than a 3 star rating, even if that translates into meaning "breathtaking" by NYT standards. I feel that the originality of the fragrance is not properly recognized in this article as it is reduced to a flattening realistic interpretation of its personality. Chandler Burr is saying, in other words, that he smelled those notes before on the street around construction workers, hey, no big deal. "L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Dzing!, a unisex fragrance created by Olivia Giacobetti, the author of Diptyque’s popular Philosykos, is similar to the scent that daily bathes the urban hard hat, with his hammer and nails. I bet this guy never thinks about this complex scent, and I bet he would recognize it instantly". Does that do justice to Olivia Giaocobetti's imagination, originality again, and artistic risk-taking? I think not....

They don't know yet that they are wearing Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur but they will soon, when they open the New York Times....

 

 

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Continue reading "Scented Thoughts: On Chandler Burr's Take on Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur" »

October 11, 2006

Blog Correspondence {Ask Marie-Helene}

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Dear Readers,

I just wanted to thank the readers who have sent me letters requesting fragrance advice and would like to take this opportunity to ask them to be patient. You messages are very important to me as I am sure they will be to others. I will answer them as soon as I can.

Best,
Marie-Helene 

Photo is of a correspondence written between two young men in the 1860s and taken by Muffet

New Perfumes: Un Parfum D'Ailleurs et Fleurs, Un Parfum Des Sens et Bois, & Un Parfum de Charme et Feuilles by The Different Company

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The Different Company has released a new trilogy of perfumes inspired by the visions of three different gardens. They are called Un Parfum D'Ailleurs et Fleurs (A Perfume of Elsewhere and Flowers), Un Parfum Des Sens et Bois (A Perfume of the Senses and Wood) Un Parfum de Charme et Feuilles (A Perfume of Charm and Leaves). They were composed by Céline Ellena who says that she "writes using aromas to further move into the abstract and the immaterial". She is also the author of Jasmin de Nuit, Sel de Vétiver, and Rose Divine...


Continue reading "New Perfumes: Un Parfum D'Ailleurs et Fleurs, Un Parfum Des Sens et Bois, & Un Parfum de Charme et Feuilles by The Different Company" »

October 12, 2006

Scented Quote of the Day, from T.S. Eliot:

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"I have smelt

Corruption in the dish, incense in the latrine, the

Sewer in the incense, the smell of the sweet soap in

the woodpath, a hellish sweet scent in the woodpath...

while the ground heaved.

Murder in the Cathedral 

Photo is of a 14th century boss from the navel of Exeter Cathedral ca. 1350 and depicts the murder of Thomas Beckett. finestoneminiatures.com


 

New Perfume & Perfume Short: Danielle by Danielle Steel

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The first perfume by best-selling author, Danielle by Danielle Steel has now hit the perfume counters. It is described as a lush floral oriental and is meant to convey qualities embodied by the prolific writer and mother of nine children, that is, femininity and strength.

The juice, by Loc Dong of International Flavors and Fragrances, has top notes of lush green notes and Mediterranean mandarin; a heart of butterfly jasmine, sunset orchid and hydroponic rose, and a drydown of blue vetiver, white amber and cashmere musks.

The collection includes eaux de parfum in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $49.50 and 3.3 oz. for $65, as well as a 0.5-oz. parfum, $125, and a 6.8-oz. body lotion for $35.

The eau de parfum bottles are faceted heavy glass rectangles, intended to be reminiscent of pieces in Steel’s large fine crystal collection. The juice inside is tinted a pale yellow. The perfume bottle is a weighty glass rectangle with a glass dabber and faceted top. Glass for both was fabricated by Pochet...

Continue reading "New Perfume & Perfume Short: Danielle by Danielle Steel" »

October 13, 2006

Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses: Santa Maria Novella Opens a Museum Wing

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The historic Santa Maria Novella store in Florence called in Italian L'officina Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Firenze opened a new museum wing on September 15 2006.

"The collection covers eight centuries and includes medieval flacons, hand-painted vases and urns and marble pestles and mortars. [...] It showcases earthenware used to create elixirs and perfumes by the Dominican monks who started the pharmacy in 1221". According to the director of the historic pharmacy, Eugenio Alphandery, these ceramics from the 1600s come from two boxes found in a disused well. Old distillery machinery will be added later on.

Santa Maria Novella plans to open new stores in Sydney, Bangkok, Switzerland, and Japan by the end of next year.

The address of the store in Florence is: 16 Via della Scala. You can read more about the history of the pharmacy here.

Sources: Women's Wear Daily and Santa Maria Novella 

 

Shopping Tips: New Perfume Arrivals

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L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha is now available at Aedes, Luckyscent, and Beauty Cafe.

Bond no 9 West Side is available for pre-orders at Beauty Cafe.

The new Tocca fragrance line including Florence, Stella, and Touch, is available at Luckyscent. You get a free full-size Stella lotion with any purchase of a Tocca scent. Luckyscent has also two new chocolate fragrances, Eau de Cacao by Coppeneur, a famed chocolate confiserie boutique in Germany and Chocolat Frais by Il Profumo. Two masculine scents from Il Profumo, G11 and Aventure, are now also in store.

 

Salvador Dali Pour Homme (1987) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne}

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I will not go over the artificiality of the distinction between men's and women's perfumes here, except to say that my position is that, although the distinction should not be taken too seriously, one cannot deny nevertheless the fact that certain accords are traditionally coded as being masculine and hence may feel that way to a person brought up in a culture and era that mark those scents as such. I personally cannot wear a perfume that makes me feel like I am wearing an after-shave.......

Continue reading "Salvador Dali Pour Homme (1987) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne}" »

October 2006 Archive

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