Monthly Archives from March 2006

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Beautiful Black Perfume Bottles & Smelling Black {Scented Thoughts & Perfume List}

malevich_black.jpg

 

I have finally come up with a list of Beautiful Black Perfume Bottles. Writing down these names and comparing the bottles amongst themselves made me realize certain common points that they share and some of the ideas regarding the treatment in black of perfume bottles. I will pick a few to see if the contents match the aesthetics of the flacon.

I have already come up with the thought that some perfumes should be dressed in black to convey the full impact of their personalities, like Dzing!, Femme, Youth-Dew, Royal Secret, Réglisse, Sables, Patchouli Antique, or Lonestar Memories (yes, Andy). Which brings me to think that Coffee scents, as I see it, would be enhanced by black flacons for containers although if that became a dictum it would soon become boring. When I try imagining a coffee scent held captive in a pink bottle, it somehows makes me feel ill in the stomach...


I suppose that intense scents, suggested by a black coffee note, belong in black bottles. The interesting question for me is to see whether a not-so-intense scent gets to be perceived as more of something because it is coded in black, like Nocturnes Parfum by Caron.

Some scents are dark yet remain of a very dark brown rather than veer to a credible black in my perception of them, like Ambre Russe, probably because in my mind amber and davana remain on the edge of black. However notes like tar, coffee, licorice, patchouli or Immortelle easily build associations with the color black.... or do they all the time? We'll see. Some green notes have a lot of black in them like galbanum.

I am wondering what is the blackest perfume by Serge Lutens? Is there even one such by him? How would a perfume made up of only naturally-occurring black ingredients smell like? Very intensely and disturbingly black?

This reminds me of an experiment that was conducted at a dinner at the Palais de l'Elysée where only white food was served over the entire course of an official dinner. It turned out to be grossly unappetizing despite the high quality of the cooking. Doing it with black food would probably have the same effect.

Lately I have come to realize more forcefully how the sense of sight contributes to the sense of smell as now it happens often that when I see a picture of a flacon or a flower or fruit I start smelling what I am seeing. If I take the image away the smell fades away and when I set eyes again on the image source the smell reappears. It is not exactly the same as reacting to the color black but it shows, to me at least, that olfactory memory/perception can be effectively stimulated by a visual signal.

More on black in perfumery to come. 

And the nominees, in no particular order, are (for perfume bottles that are still available, not antiquities):

Arpège Parfum by Lanvin

Arpège for Men by Lanvin 

Bandit by Piguet

Gala Loewe by Loewe

Black Orchid by Tom Ford 

Kisu by Tann Rokka 

Joy Parfum by Patou 

Asja by Fendi 

Fendi Men by Fendi 

Nocturnes Parfum by Caron 

Black by Bulgari

Chaos by Donna Karan (my favorite of the black DK bottles)

Zen by Shiseido (non-export line) 

Opium Collector Edition by YSL

Balahé by Léonard

Ferre by Ferre

Kölnisch Juchten 

Habanita by Molinard 

Wall Street by Bond no 9 

Silences by Jacomo 

Scent Intense by Costume National 

Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso 

Ombre Rose Parfum by Jean-Claude Brosseau 

Narcison Rodriguez edt by Narciso Rodriguez 

K. Cole Black Woman 

K. Cole Black Man 

Rive Gauche Homme

Salvador Dali for Men

Encre Noire by Lalique

No 1 by Clive Christian 

Nuit de Noël by Caron (thanks AnneE) 

L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci (thanks to Anna) 

Photo: Black Square by Kasimir Malevitch from russianpaintings.net 

Comments

Great list - I've forgotten about many of these.

For the beauty of the bottle alone, I would have to go with Arpege. And I would add Caron's Nuit de Noel for runner-up. Both gorgeous classics.

Oh yes, completely forgot about Nuit de Noël! Counting on you guys to complete the list.

Chicane de Jacomo, I believe, was black, along w/Septieme Sens by Rykiel [a great leather favorite of mine years ago].
These were simple, but the jus within were marvellous....and discontinued, alas.

Helene, I've been remiss, and I've missed you !

[Beats breast a la Catholique and repeats soullessly-"C'est ma faute, c'est ma faute, c'est ma plus grevieuse faute"]

I blooped !
Mea culpa...


The Armani Prive bottles are black wood, and they are quite lovely in person.

Hmmm. Fragrances that would be black, if they conveyed a color:

Bvlgari Black
Black Cashmere
SMN Nostalgia
My Sin
Armani Prive Bois d'Encens

Are there others?

To me, the Serge fragrances are ... too vivid? Mostly red. Or green.

Deep blue is unusual in a fragrance, but light blue is common. (Not the actual color; the feel.) L'Heure Bleue is perhaps deep blue. Inky.

My apologies if I sound nuts. It was fun to ponder.


Mimi!
What about L'Arte di Gucci? First - it's black. and second - it's very beautiful :)

Anna,

You are so right. The bottle is wonderful and the scent too, except that now that I have experienced Soir de Lune by Sisley I have to say that the latter smells even more refined and expensive.

Thank you for the reminder.

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