December 28, 2006

Sali Oguri in Concert at Kenny's Castaways Tonight Dec 28 2006

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Don't miss Sali Oguri's concert tonight at Kenny's Castaways in NYC. Sali is the nose behind cult scent Pink Manhattan.

Kenny’s Castaways
157 Bleecker Street – New York, NY
8:45 PM - $10 Admission – 21+w/I.D.
212-979-9762

Please go to Wujme Productions for more information 

 

December 26, 2006

A Rose by Inis {Perfume Review & Musings}

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In the emails I receive from readers I am often asked questions about rose fragrances. These requests make me realize that despite the fact that many people might think rose fragrances are a bit passé, not original enough, harking back to the days of yore when women wore flowery hats and scented their kerchiefs with violet and rose scents, that in spite of that stereotype there are many amateurs of rose perfumes.

I also realize that the slight prejudice that exists against rose fragrances amongst people who seek rarer scents may stem from the fact that many a rose fragrances smell a bit dull and conventional to the nose or appear to never smell as enthralling as the original natural flower. A recurring request is that the desirable rose scents smell both natural and have an interesting touch to them.

Oftentimes I find that rose scents strip down roses of their character, their earthiness, their verdant freshness, their aqueous quality, their woodiness, in other words, of their complexity. Too often we are reminded of the flattened unidimensional scent of a rose soap. In this manner a rose scent can easily be perceived to be boring due to its enduring popularity and typification......


Continue reading "A Rose by Inis {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

A Mini Guide To Fragrant Paris And The Bespoke Fragrance Trend {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Louise Roddon draws a quick sketch of and proposes a mini guide to Paris the fragrance capital of the world. She also takes the time to describe the bespoke fragrance trend which is indeed currently being developed by several houses in Paris, not just Guerlain and Patou.

On The Scent in Paris

Source: The Daily Telegraph 

Le Printemps de Guerlain by Maryline Desbiolles & Des Epices Au Parfum by Brigitte Bourgny-Romagne {Fragrant Readings}

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Two new publications on perfumes are now available.The first one called Le Printemps de Guerlain is by author Maryline Desbiolles and is also available in an English version called Spring at Guerlain.....

Continue reading "Le Printemps de Guerlain by Maryline Desbiolles & Des Epices Au Parfum by Brigitte Bourgny-Romagne {Fragrant Readings}" »

December 25, 2006

Cardiet Design Drops Its Case Against Guerlain Regarding Insolence {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Cardiet Design dropped its suit against Guerlain regarding possible infringement of copyrights by Serge Mansau where the flacon of Insolence is concerned at the beginning of last week.....

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December 24, 2006

Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël, & Happy Winter Holidays! {Scented Image}

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Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noël, & Happy Winter Holidays! 

Best Fragrant Wishes From The Scented Salamander On The Occasion Of The Festive Winter Season

This beautiful picture of a Christmasy perfume display at Saks 5th Avenue is by gmmotorcyclist 

Voleur de Ciels, Tobacco Mucho, Un Thé au Sahara, Berbériades, Embruns d'Ambre, Amande Honorable, Le Pot Aux Roses by Stéphanie de Saint Aignan {New Perfumes}

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Stéphanie de Saint Aignan released her first 2007 collection of perfumes comprising 7 fragrances in October. She plans in the future to introduce a new fragrance each year. De Saint Aignan was trained at ISIPCA and now works independently owning her own laboratory.

Currently her line includes Voleur de Ciels (The Skies Thief), Tobacco Mucho, Amande Honorable (lit. Honorable Almond, a play on the expression "amende honorable"), Le Pot Aux Roses (lit. The Potted Roses; refers to an expression meaning that one has uncovered a scheme), Berbériades (a reference to a travel to the region of the Berbers), Un Thé au Sahara (A Tea in Sahara after the novel by Paul Bowles), and Embruns d'Ambre (Amber Sprays)......

Continue reading "Voleur de Ciels, Tobacco Mucho, Un Thé au Sahara, Berbériades, Embruns d'Ambre, Amande Honorable, Le Pot Aux Roses by Stéphanie de Saint Aignan {New Perfumes}" »

Azzaro Now Women & Azzaro Now Men by Azzaro {New Perfumes}

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Azzaro is going to launch its first duo of fragrances called Azzaro Now Women and Azzaro Now Men starting in March 2007 in Europe. The bottles, which were designed by Emmanuelle Royer, will be based on the same concept as that of Gaultier2 except in this case the image of a couple is symbolized by two bubbles in fusion....

 

Picture: Bubbles I by Mark Pulliam 


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December 23, 2006

Christian Provenzano Is The Author of Maîtresse by Agent Povocateur {Perfume History & Facts}

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We are writing this post to clarify the authorship of Maîtresse by Agent Provocateur. Christian Provenzano is the one and only author of the perfume.

We're very glad that perfumer Christian Provenzano took the time to let us know that contrary to the information we quoted directly from both Cosmetic News and Cosmetics International and which we therefore reproduced at two different times on the blog, Maîtresse by Agent Provocateur is solely his creation. Azzi Glasser is actually the marketing director for the fragrance, not the nose behind it.

Our many thanks for this clarification.

Source: Christian Provenzano 

My Perfect Christmas Scent for 2006: Gaultier2 by Jean Paul Gaultier {Perfume Review & Musings}

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My perfect Christmas scent for 2006 is Gaultier2 by Jean Paul Gaultier. A little surprised? So was I. Francis Kurkdjian the nose who created the perfume in 2005 once described it in no uncertain terms as a perfume supposed to evoke sex in the dark. Then I forgot about this characterization.

Having dug out the quote again, I see that the nose was very explicit about it "The request for a new feminine fragrance came from the market. But Jean Paul Gaultier felt less than inspired by this request: for him there exist only beautiful aromas. He wanted to make a perfume for everyone that would evoke the smell of two bodies in the dark, that of a caramel between two mouths, that of "ass" but clean ass.".....


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December 22, 2006

My Perfect Christmas 2006 Scent....

I'll tune back in tonight to post a review of this most excellent Christmas-y perfume. If you have the time, please drop by later.

New Beauty Blog For The Scented Salamander: All About Beauty {Beauty Notes}

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Dear Readers,

Just wanted to let you know that I started a beauty blog called All About Beauty. Despite its name, it does not pretend to be exhaustive, rather to be very eclectic in its approach to the phenomenon of beauty put in social, cultural, and historical contexts.....


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New Collection of Perfumes: Les Exclusifs by Chanel {New Perfumes}

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Following a growing trend of highly exclusive perfume launches to revive the watered-down notion of prestige fragrances nowadays as well as one of parallel collections of perfumes to commercial ones meant to embody the artistic, more risk-taking approaches that mainstream perfume houses can take (see Hermessences), Chanel will market a collection of 10 fragrances in a line called Les Exclusifs de Chanel.

The 6 new perfumes added to the existing exclusive boutique collection which includes the 4 Cuir de Russie, Bois des îles, Chanel no 22, and Gardenia were created by nose Jacques Polge who is the author of many splendid fragrances like Ungaro Diva, Chanel Coco, Chanel Egoïste, Chanel Allure, to name only a few.....

Photo: Coco in her daytime appartment 31, rue Cambon surrounded by her antique windscreens in Coromandel lacquer. Source: The Met. 


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December 19, 2006

A Look at 2007 in Perfumes {Fragrance News} {New Perfumes}

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Here is an early look at the new perfumes to be issued in the year 2007. I am basing myself both on a Russian site called Malenkij Parizh (Little Paris) and on Parfum-Echecs Chez Alice (Perfume-Chess at Alice's). This is a selective list and there are more. Some of the upcoming 2007 fragrance releases that, in particular, I have not already cited on TSS include:

• Dolly Girl Bonjour L'Amour by Anne Sui (2007)

• Liberté by Cacharel (spring 2007 in Europe)

• Chopard Wish Turquoise Diamond (2007 in Europe) 

• Christian Lacroix C'est La Fête (1st half of 2007 in Europe)

• Virgin Island Water by Creed (March 2007 in Europe - a unisex fragrance) 

Please check the rest after the jump....

Photo: Collage by Pierre Robin 

Continue reading "A Look at 2007 in Perfumes {Fragrance News} {New Perfumes}" »

Kusmi Christmas Tea by Kousmichoff {Fragrant Shopping} {Holiday Gift Idea}

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If you are still wondering what Christmas tea you want to sip over Christmas or bring as a gift to a host, I would recommend the Kusmi Christmas Tea. I prefer it over the popular Spiced Christmas Tea by Taylor's as it has a deeper, smokier, and spicier flavor.

The Taylor's one makes me think more of a classic English breakfast tea. It is also not that flavorful in my opinion and hence feels less of a special tea during that special season of the Holidays.....


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December 18, 2006

Zegna Intenso by Ermenegildo Zegna {New Perfume}

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Italian design brand Ermenegildo Zegna is launching a third fragrance. It follows the launch of Essenza, Zegna’s signature scent and Z, for the modern man....


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Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci {New Perfume}

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Gucci has unveiled their new masculine fragrance called Gucci Pour Homme II. The scent is described as being fresh, spicy, and woody. It is set to launch in early March 2007 in the US before being rolled out to the international market.....

Continue reading "Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci {New Perfume}" »

Luv Perfume Oil & Body Lotion by Sharon Bolton Scents {Perfume Review & Musings}

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Luv by Sharon Bolton Scents, a perfume company from Santa Barbara, California, is described as an intoxicating and feminine scent showcasing tropical flowers and in particular "...rare pink gardenia, lush Hawaiian white flowers, and a hint of creamy vanilla with a delicate whisper of white musk." Having sojourned in tropical and equatorial countries for many years, I am always interested in finding a fragrance that captures the sensuality of the atmosphere in these countries and I must say that I am thrilled with my new discovery.

First of all let me tell you that receiving a package from Sharon Bolton Scents is an excellent visual preparation for what is to come next. My items arrived in an elegant shiny black hat box wrapped around with a black satin ribbon. Inside, the lovely items packaged in a minimalist modern and clean style were showcased in a contrasting hot fushia silk paper. I also learned afterwards that all the packaging is recyclable.....


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Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

Ore by Zents

Upcoming Chanel 28 La Pausa {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}

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I just read a great interview of beauty editor Linda Wells on Hello Dollface! She mentions in it that Chanel will be introducing a new perfume in February of 2007. It is called Chanel 28 La Pausa named after the resort residence of Coco Chanel in the town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin located on the French riviera. The villa was originally built for her by her then lover the Duke of Westminster.

Source: Hello Dollface! 

December 17, 2006

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens {Perfume Review & Musings}

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Dear Reader,

Lately I have been rereading a stunning little book, Raymond Queneau's Exercises in Style, which inspired me to offer you three different interpretations of the same perfume, the melancholy La Myrrhe.

Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, a fragrance review by Dusan

ANALYTICAL

Created in 1995 by Christopher Sheldrake for Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, La Myrrhe features notes of myrrh, lotus, mandarin, jasmine, spices, pimento berries, honey, bitter almond, sandalwood and musk. As might be expected from the Serge Lutens line, this is yet another fragrance that easily fits into the category of ‘love-it-or-hate-it’ scents.

La Myrrhe starts off slightly sharp and heady with silky aldehydes, iced mandarin peel and a lovely, clean jasmine note that weaves in and out of the composition. This opening has been described variously on different fragrance boards as ‘aldehydic’ and ‘soapy’, inviting comparison with Chanel #5 as the mother of all aldehydes; yet there is nothing distinctly warm or floral about this stage, which serves as a chilly backdrop for the gentle unfolding of all of La Myrrhe’s subtleties.....

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Continue reading "La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

December 16, 2006

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week}

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The agarwood in M7 is pervasive, dark and swirling with complexities.  It has rich sweet resinous and slightly fruity overtones with a good dose of raspberry and lighter nuances of burnt caramel and honey.

It is a perfume that starts off warm and thick like the unfurling texture of dark molasses or better still it is thick like a heavy hanging wall tapestry from the middle-ages evoking men's quest for hotness and fire in the midst of winter.....

Continue reading "M7 by Yves Saint Laurent {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week}" »

December 13, 2006

First Impressions of the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based On Perfume The Novel by Süskind & Perfume The Movie by Tykwer {Scented Thoughts}

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The red velvet box finally came. I smelled it before opening it as I was wondering whether all put together the perfumes created an interesting dissonant or harmonious smell that might have transpired through the walls of the coffret. One end of the box smelled moldy, you will know why later, the other one was neutral....


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Tihota, Manakara, & Isvaraya by Indult {New Perfumes}

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A new French perfume brand called Indult (from Christian Latin indultum: concession, favor) has introduced three fragrances called Tihota, Manakara, and Isvaraya. The perfumes were created by Francis Kurkdjian. Each one of them is devoted to an important perfumery note, here respectively vanilla, rose, and patchouli.....


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December 12, 2006

Diorama & Diorling by Dior, Where to Buy Them {Shopping Tip} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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I received an update from Dior regarding the availability of Diorama (1949) and Diorling (1963). Although these perfumes do not seem to be listed on their official website, I was sent the information that you can purchase them through the Dior boutique located on Avenue Montaigne in Paris.....


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An Interview With Olivier Durbano, Jewelry and Perfume Designer {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}

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The Scented Salamander is delighted to introduce French designer Olivier Durbano. Apart from being a talented jewelry designer, Durbano is also a perfume designer and has developed the concept of a collection of perfumes inspired by his lapidary art called Parfums de Pierres Poèmes (Perfumes of Stones Poems).

His first fragrance was called Cristal de Roche (Rock Crystal); he is going to release a second scent in 2007 called Améthyste (Amethyst). These fragrances are part of a project to create 7 different scents inspired by 7 different stones.

Symbolism and philosophy preside over his creative process inviting us to look at perfumes in a renewed manner. His fragrances call us back to a state of naturalness and limpid contemplation where things are experienced rather than analyzed. In this manner, his perfume