The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


A Comment by Will Andrews On TSS About Rock 'N Rose By Valentino, Some Thoughts on Authorship in Perfumery {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}

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We got an interesting comment by perfumer William Andrews regarding Rock 'N Rose by Valentino. He turns out to be one of the creators of the fragrance and not its sole conceiver. In this case also we had initially quoted our information from Cosmetic News. Here is the correction that he added:


"[...]The fragrance was actually developed by the P&G Fragrance Creation team in close partnership with Mr Valentino & Quest. It was not solely developed by me. We describe the fragrance as a 'fantasy rose' scent, part of our Floral Soft-Rosy-Florals family.[...]" Please see the initial post for reference.

It is a very interesting comment, like the others we received on TSS from other professionals from the industry, because it shows how the notion of authorship in perfumery can be much more complex than advertised. Rather than to think generally about an author of a perfume after the model of a writer, it seems appropriate in many cases to think about a plural effort, which brings to mind the model of a film production team. Parallel to that reality is the more ideological debate existing between perfumers who simply don't seem to care about being seen as the singular author of a fragrance and others who think that it is important that the notion be clarified.

We can be reminded that the figure of the writer emerged historically in the 17th century at which time that his/her social function was recognized. It seems to me that a similar tension is apparent here and that the lack of institutionalization of the function of the perfumer opens a space for debate. There is a certain push in the media to simplify the question and I find it fascinating that the perfumers themselves remind us of the intricacies of their profession.

Rock N' Rose is available at Bergdorf Goodman where it is currently sold in exclusivity. The 3 oz flacon retails for $78.

"The fragrance is created as a perfect balance between edgy modernity and Valentino's elegance and tradition.

• Top notes of bergamot, black currant, and crunch green.
• Middle notes of orange blossom, gardenia, muguet, and rose.
• Base notes of sandalwood, orris, musky notes, vanilla, and heliotrope." 

Sources: William Andrews, Bergdorf Goodman 

 

Comments

BG may *think* they have exclusive rights; but I saw it on sale in my local Nordstrom (Durham, NC) just the other day...

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