Monthly Archives from March 2006

December 2007 Archive

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December 10, 2007

Louve by Serge Lutens Elected Scent of the Year 2007 by the Committee on Russian Perfumery {Fragrance News}

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© Parfums Serge Lutens 

The Committee on Russian Perfumery has awarded Louve by Serge Lutens the distinction of being Scent of the Year 2007 in the category best niche perfume of 2007,

From the press release in French, with the names of members of the committee,

"Le Comité de la Parfumerie Russe

vient de décerner en Décembre 2007

ses  " Scents of the Year  2007" au Kremlin, à Moscou.

Le parfum : Louve de Serge Lutens,

a reçu

le Prix du meilleur parfum de niche...........

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© Parfums Serge Lutens

Continue reading "Louve by Serge Lutens Elected Scent of the Year 2007 by the Committee on Russian Perfumery {Fragrance News}" »

Guinness World Record Names Clive Christian No1 Most Expensive Perfume In The World {Fragrance News}

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 © Shawn Ehlers/Wireimage.com - Do not download without Wireimage's consent

The Guinness World Record for the title of most expensive fragrance in the world was attributed to the limited edition of No 1 called Imperial Majesty by designer Clive Christian. The award was given during a party held at Saks on December 8th 2007.The juice of this perfume which is sparkling like a yellow canari diamond is reportedly made of the finest ingredients to be had, cost being no object. The flacon in heavy Baccarat crystal encrusted with a diamond solitaire and circled with 24 karat gold plated sterling silver (they are being a little economical here we would say) is a good part of the cost of the perfume.

Top notes are lime and white peach; heart notes are rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and green orchid; base notes are Tahitian vanilla and ancient Indian sandalwood. The price of the limited edition Imperial Majesty was $215, 000 last year.......

Clive_Christian_Guinness.jpg
© Shawn Ehlers/Wireimage.com - Do not download without Wireimage's consent

Continue reading "Guinness World Record Names Clive Christian No1 Most Expensive Perfume In The World {Fragrance News}" »

December 11, 2007

Louve by Serge Lutens (2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

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 The she-wolf... imagination carries reality away....who inhabits this name?
Where do wolves live? At the Louvre!
The she-wolf is heraldic. It resides on top of a mountain in a snow castle
A legend of the beginnings of time...a perfume? -- Serge Lutens
 
Louve by Serge Lutens is like a large diamond dropped and found in the snow letting out unusual fires and colors; perhaps they mimic the color of time. The faceted diamond then slowly morphs into a magical crystal ball into which one can look at things past and perhaps things to come as well. Louve seems to be built on a series of strange, fairy-like accords with unexpected twists and turns. The perfume is heartbreakingly beautiful like the memory of a lost kingdom you once used to visit when you were a child. The scent is all purity and innocence yet feels enriched by the dreams and memories of experience. It is a profoundly moving work of art and is so beautiful and real it brings involuntary tears to your eyes.

 

In a sense it is another incarnation of Douce Amère by Lutens, not olfactorily speaking so much although there is a bitter almond note but more to the point as by the bitter-sweet feeling it elicits out of you, shedding light on deep continuities in the work of Serge Lutens..........

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Romus and Remulus by Rubens

Continue reading "Louve by Serge Lutens (2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}" »

December 12, 2007

Paris Hilton Goes To Dadeland {Scented Images} {Scented Thoughts}

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 Paris Hilton in Dadeland Mall, Dec 6, 2007
©Vespa/Wireimage.com - Do not download without Wireimage's consent

If one has had the good fortune of getting an advance copy of the upcoming book by Chandler Burr entitled The Perfect Scent (release date, Jan 22, 2008) focusing on two case studies of fragrance development in the industry, Un Jardin Sur Le Nil by Hermès and Lovely by Coty, one then gets the full meaning of what "going to Dadeland" might mean when it comes to boosting fragrance sales. Is Paris Hilton visiting Dadeland (and other malls for that matter currently) because she is eager to meet her fans and do a little fieldwork or in anticipation of through-the-roof sales and to thank her fans? Not quite........

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 Paris Hilton in Dadeland Mall, Dec 6, 2007 ©Vespa/Wireimage.com - Do not download without Wireimage's consent

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December 13, 2007

Pyxis, Nenufar, Ankh by Scents Of Time: Towards An Archaeology of Perfume {New Fragrances}

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David Pybus, the well-known co-author with Charles Sell of The Chemistry of Fragrances and also author of Kodo The Way of Incense as well as Transports of Delight launched a new brand of perfumes titled Scents of Time. It will be exclusively devoted to the archaeological reconstruction of ancient perfumes long lost to mankind. The project took off initially thanks to a popular TV show on BBC 2 called Dragon's Den whose focus is to match up budding entrepreneurs with investment finance specialists.

Three perfumes Pyxis, Nenúfar and Ankh, debuted recently at the British Museum in the context of an exhibition on Tuthankamen. The whole collection currently comprises Nenúfar, "Cleopatra's sacred scent", Ankh, "Tuthankamen's aroma of intrigue", and Pyxis "The lost perfume of Pompeii". More fragrances are to follow, reportedly about twenty, as foreseen at the moment. According to the press release,......

 

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Continue reading "Pyxis, Nenufar, Ankh by Scents Of Time: Towards An Archaeology of Perfume {New Fragrances}" »

Maxim's de Paris Candles with Customizable Calligraphy at Bergdorf Goodman Dec 15 {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $50 or Less}

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Maxim's scented candles illustrated with Sem's Belle Epoque caricatures can now be customized with a calligraphy to personalize your gift,

"Come and visit us this Saturday, December 15th - from 12 - 6pm at Bergdorf Goodman's Beauty Level to have your candle personalized - a great gift idea for under $50 !
 
Our calligrapher will beautifully hand letter your personal message on the porcelain candle container!"
 

Tsi-La Organics Collection {Perfume Reviews in a Nutshell} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $75 or Less} {Green Products}

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Tsi-La Organics have put out a collection of 4 fragrances comprising Kesu, Ilang Ilang, Kizes and Fleur Sauvage in a set including 4 ml flacons. After having tested several of their offerings we can say that the scents are consistently very rich, narcotic, and on top of that very relaxing!.....

Continue reading "Tsi-La Organics Collection {Perfume Reviews in a Nutshell} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $75 or Less} {Green Products}" »

Skarb by Humiecki & Graef (2007): How Men Cry - Part I {Perfume Review & Musings} {Scented Thoughts} {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Daniel Craig by Sam Taylor-Wood in Men Crying


Skarb means "treasure" in Polish; it is the name of the first fragrance put out by the niche perfume brand Humiecki and Graef, named after the two grandmothers of founders Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Müksch: Helena Humiecka z Humiecina (1908-2000) and Katharina Graef (1906-2004).

There exists here so many networks of meaning on which the existence of this perfume rests that it is worthwhile to try to present a few of them. First the fragrance is said to explicitly refuse the traditional order and hierarchization of notes. Skarb is an attempt to reflect the intricacies of life and history - especially as impacted by National Socialism in Eastern Europe, the points of rejoinder and departure, the memories and emotions that beset and nurtured human lives in that region - into the language of perfumery........

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 Anschluss Tears

Continue reading "Skarb by Humiecki & Graef (2007): How Men Cry - Part I {Perfume Review & Musings} {Scented Thoughts} {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

December 14, 2007

Interview with Douglas Hopkins of DH & Co - Part I: The Story of Prastara & a Fashion Photographer Turned Fragrance Developer {Passion for Perfume - Portrait} {Celebrity Fragrance}

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If you are an amateur of historical perfumes, you are bound to have happened on Prastara Royal, a perfume based on a recipe created by a chemist to Louis XIV, as the tradition recalls, and now faithfully re-created by Douglas Hopkins & Co at the Perfume Factory. We asked its founder Douglas Hopkins to tell us about the story of this fragrance and his own role in shaping anew the destiny of this ancient eau. It turns out this is not just an inspired marketing project, but more an adventure taking its main hero, Douglas Hopkins, from the milieu of the New York fashion industry to Royal Austrian castles and post-Communist fragrance factories in Eastern Europe. The material contained in this exclusive interview will be part of a forthcoming photography book, Real.Views.

Marie-Hélène Wagner: The story of Prastara seems complex; I see that there is a Polish brand that sells a similar product. Do you have any information about that other Prastara?

Douglas Hopkins: The short story is that I bought the Prastara trademark from the Poles back around 1987, from a trip with a fragrance industry expert, looking for investments after the Wall went down.  The Communist factory keeps the domestic Polish market, I have the rest of the world. I've since created three other scents, Prastara Blue, Åse (OH-say), and Zazou. I was friends with a number of European royal families, stemming from portraits I did during twenty years as a New York fashion photographer, and through their exquisite private castle libraries (You can yet see a photo of one on the first page of our old site www.DouglasHopkins.com). I found intriguing formulations, which I used in creating my scents. With my background as a volcanologist at MIT/NASA, I expanded into geothermal-based skin care products, which did exceptionally well.  They were licensed a few years ago and are being redesigned for a new launch.  We made an unintended splash in the fashion press for a $800 per ounce "Deep Sea" limited edition, therapeutic mud, which sold out at Bergdorf Goodman in a week.  We have been more or less exclusive to Bergdorf's for 15 years, but are now expanding into a wider market.  We have been a hit in Italy for a decade, and recently entered Galeries Lafayette in Paris, the first American niche fragrance in the store.  These are a few of the highlights........

 

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Graf Alchemy Diagram, Poland © Douglas Hopkins & Co 

Continue reading "Interview with Douglas Hopkins of DH & Co - Part I: The Story of Prastara & a Fashion Photographer Turned Fragrance Developer {Passion for Perfume - Portrait} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

Estée Lauder Friday Special - Today Only {Shopping Tip}

With any Estée Lauder $25.00 purchase you get free shipping and four free samples today. Lasts through 11.59 pm. Enter code FRIDAY at checkout. Special rate on expedited shipping.

Bois Contre Soi by Senke (2007) {New Fragrance & House}

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Senke is a brand new cosmetics and perfume brand founded by Priska Sarraméa, a beauty industry veteran who has worked for Gucci, Carolina Herrera, and Escada in the past. Senke is inspired by the ethical preoccupations derived from the ecological issues we all face at the dawn of the 21st century. More specifically the organic cosmetics and perfume line is based on research on the natural properties of trees; their products are eco-certified.

Bois Contre Soi (Wood Against Self) is an eau de parfum translating the philosophy of the house and is described as "An original organic creation, a unique composition, a name with a French touch".......

Continue reading "Bois Contre Soi by Senke (2007) {New Fragrance & House}" »

John Varvatos Eau de Parfum for Women (2008) {New Fragrance}

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Designer of mainly men's wear John Varvatos has announced a 2008 perfume launch that is a first for the brand, a women's fragrance simply called John Varvatos Eau de Parfum. It comes after a debut fragrance in 2004, John Varvatos (see review) and a second masculine cologne in 2006 with John Varvatos Vintage. The women's perfume was also entrusted to the talent of perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux who composed the previous fragrances.........

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December 15, 2007

Presidential Candidate Lures In Voters with Great Korea Perfume {The 5th Sense in the News}

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The Great Korea perfume is leading Lee Myung Bak to victory; the flacon may not look too fancy but the juice itself has reportedly been made to feel irresistible. Photo Dec 12, 2007 © Reuters/Jo Yong-Hak
 
In Korea, presidential front-runner Lee Myung Bak must have a keen nose and believe in the powers of olfaction like no other since his campaign staff has decided to implement a very unusual strategy for "branding" the candidate's image. Drawing on marketing experience and department-stores' olfactory branding of which Korea is an early practitioner, the idea has been taken a step further by attempting to associate feelings of "hope, victory, passion" with a perfume called Great Korea that was secretly sprayed at public gatherings and will be again sprayed when voters enter the polling booths. Obviously no law forbids this type of political manipulation since it has never been done before (?) and can be accounted as one more publicity tool or can it be?..........

Continue reading "Presidential Candidate Lures In Voters with Great Korea Perfume {The 5th Sense in the News}" »

Update on Interview with Douglas Hopkins & What's to Come

Dear Readers,

Part II of our interview with Douglas Hopkins is postponed until Tuesday Dec 18, next week. We've asked him further questions and he will take the time to answer them more thoroughly. But the patient ones will be rewarded with an upcoming %15 code off the Douglas Hopkins & Co fragrances to be available on their new website!

This weekend we hope to post part II of our review of Skarb as well as our review of Brin de Réglisse by Hermès!

Best Scented Wishes,

Marie-Hélène 

December 16, 2007

Hermès Brin de Réglisse (2007): An Abstract Figurative Fragrance {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

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Gris coulée de Loire à la trace ocre by Olivier Debré, 1987 

 

The Hermessence collection, which now includes Brin de Réglisse (it becomes lit. "strand of licorice" without the "un" at the beginning), is the most exclusive of the perfume lines offered by the house of Hermès. While a feminine Hermès fragrance distributed through department-stores channels will be produced at 300 000 to 400 000 copies, an Hermessence is limited to 5000 copies only and tightly distributed in the 90 Hermès boutiques worldwide.

Jean-Claude Ellena, the Hermès in-house perfumer, has stressed that the Hermessence range does not offer better quality ingredients than the more widely distributed fragrances but that it does offer a different approach to the art of perfumery. In this more elitist perfume collection addressing itself to a smaller public of "true connoisseurs", the perfumer is allowed more freedom of expression and can propose what he calls some "exercises of style" writing each time "a short story around a raw material". Ellena has explained that what he tries to do for each Hermessence is to "transform" the raw material used and very much in keeping with a Baudelairian vision of perfume, to propose at the same time to embark on an olfactory voyage........

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Chinese root-wood sculpture, 19th century

Continue reading "Hermès Brin de Réglisse (2007): An Abstract Figurative Fragrance {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}" »

December 2007 Archive

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