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Currently I am working on a book. Je travaille à l'écriture d'un livre. Featured Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition Latest Fragrance Review American Beauty Beloved Red Rose Fragrance Essays Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Reviews of New Perfumes
Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri From the Archives Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions of the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind. |
December 21, 2007Napoléon à Sainte-Hélène: L'Authentique Eau de Cologne de l'Empereur by Cosmalia {Historical Fragrance}  Napoleon in Saint-Helena
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Vanille 44 by Le Labo: A Paris Exclusive (2007) {New Perfume} Le Labo name their fragrances according to a central raw material used in the blend and the number of ingredients included in their compositions. The end result might be less literal than advertised by the title name....... Continue reading "Vanille 44 by Le Labo: A Paris Exclusive (2007) {New Perfume}" »
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Les Années Folles Exhibition at the Galliera Museum in Paris {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} A beautiful exhibition called Les Années Folles (1919-1929) can currently be seen at the Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. It offers a retrospective on the fashion and beauty culture of the Roaring Twenties showing the progressive emancipation of the feminine body. The era saw the birth of the garçonne and a host of convenient symbols of emancipation such as smoking in public, driving a car, wearing short dresses and short hair, signs that hardly masked the fact that the right to vote was still denied to women in France and would be until 1944. In the US, thanks to the suffragette movement, national women's vote was established earlier, by 1920. The first country in the world to grant women the official right to vote was actually New Zealand in 1893....... 
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December 22, 2007Frederic Malle on Perfume Publishing {Fragrant Reading} Illusion of Complexity, Carol Alleman, 2001 There is a Q & A with Frederic Malle in the San Francisco Chronicle. Malle describes his work as an editor of perfumes. He is largely responsible for a movement that puts the perfumer center stage and gives him or her the status of author. A perfume for him without doubt can be a piece of art, on a par with a painting by Matisse. Short formulas, like short pieces of writing, are more difficult to achieve because only the essential is expressed. This set of beliefs represents modern ideas that are still debated. Some perfumers do not seem to care about authorship in the sense of it being individualistic and like to stress collaborative efforts; the model of film director or screenplay writer might better apply. Some perfumers will probably still see themselves as sophisticated urban artisans rather than Picassos. There was also a time once when perfumers took pride in creating complex formulas. Joséphine Catapano with Norell comes to mind about which she said "We all knew the formula was long, like a treaty" (note the "we"), as well as Ellena with the 160 ingredients in First (but he has since then evolved to embrace the position that it is a less interesting approach to take). More recently, a German perfume made by Frank Rittler, Steffen Schraut, still boasts "about 120 natural essences".......... Continue reading "Frederic Malle on Perfume Publishing {Fragrant Reading}" »
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December 23, 2007Entretien Avec La Parfumeuse Crystelle Darchicourt de L'Atelier Bohême: Un Parfum Doit Faire Chavirer & Une Réflexion Sur La Masculinité {Perfume Q & A} - Original French Version Satyre et nymphe, Pierre Nivollet, 2000
Crystelle Darchicourt est la propriétaire et le nez maison de L'Atelier Bohême. Vous pouvez lire notre compte rendu de son parfum, Fil de Soie. La discussion a commencé par se centrer sur ce parfum masculin puis s'est élargie un peu plus par la suite.
Marie-Hélène Wagner: D'où vous est venu l'idée de concevoir un parfum masculin comme Fil de Soie qui me semble quelque peu atypique? Le nom aussi est plutôt féminin. Je veux dire par là que l'on aurait pu s'attendre à ce que vous mettiez plus l'accent sur des stéréotypes masculins, du point de vue tant du nom que des codes olfactifs.
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Interview with Perfumer Crystelle Darchicourt of L'Atelier Bohême: A Perfume Must Make You Keel Over & Reflections On Masculinity {Perfume Q & A} - English Translation Suzanne Moxhay, Forest, 2007
Crystelle Darchicourt is the owner and perfumer of L'Artisan Bohême. We reviewed her fragrance, Fil de Soie (Silken Thread). The discussion started with questions on this masculine fragrance then addressed broader questions later on.
Marie-Hélène Wagner: What was your inspiration for creating a masculine perfume such as Fil de Soie (Silken Thread), which seems to me to be somewhat of an atypical perfume? The name too is rather feminine. What I mean by that is that one could have expected you to put more emphasis on masculine stereotypes, regarding both its name and olfactory codes.
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December 24, 2007The Madness of The Perfume Industry {The 5th Sense in the News} With major perfume launches amounting to $50 million in investment these days, it has become increasingly hard for brands to see profit emerge out of these ventures. Armani Privé 3 years after its launch remains unprofitable but is kept afloat in order to generate an intangible value: cachet..... Continue reading "The Madness of The Perfume Industry {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
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Burt's Bees Cologne (2007) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Perfume Review in a Nutshell}
Burt's Bees has launched a reportedly 100% natural oils cologne for men in its Natural Skin Care for Men collection, simply called Burt's Bees Cologne. From the ad copy,
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December 25, 2007Merry Christmas! - Caron Nuit de Noël (1922) Advert, 1928 {Scented Images} Caron Nuit de Noël Advert, 1928 MERRY CHRISTMAS! - JOYEUX NOEL! -HAPPY HOLIDAYS! One of the most beautiful perfume ads ever: the flow of the garland, ribbon, and tassel all align suggesting lushness, richness, and elegant nonchalance as well as a subliminal cornucopia shape. The black and white contrast done in quasi religious chiaro-oscuro tones reflects the introspective qualities of the scent well. The image is even a bit haloed; the perfume and the decorations glow as if a pristine white light were shining through stained glass in a Scandinavian church set in a snowy landscape in a Dreyer's movie. Image: eBay
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December 26, 2007Dior Homme TV Ad by Hedi Slimane with Jamie Dornan {Scented Images}
Ex-artistic director of Dior Hedi Slimane directed the TV spot for the fragrance Dior Homme, which he helped compose. The ad features model Jamie Dornan and the song "For Lovers" sung by Pete Doherty.
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Petit Vaillant Kirikou by Kirikou {New Perfume}
The popular children's hero Kirikou has inspired the creation of a perfume called Petit Vaillant (The Little Valiant One). Based on an African tale re-imagined by Michel Ocelot, the lushly illustrated movies and books featuring the ever-clever and helpful diminutive Kirikou has proven to be a hit in Europe although, "...his success in the more conservative markets of the UK, U.S. and Germany has been restricted by a mixed reaction to the realistic and non-sexual, but nevertheless omnipresent nudity in his breakout film Kirikou et la sorcière."...... Continue reading "Petit Vaillant Kirikou by Kirikou {New Perfume}" »
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'Round Midnight Poison by Dior {Scented Thoughts} Femme au chapeau bleu, Picasso, 1901 The rose-patchouli-amber accord was particularly popular in 2007 in women's perfumes although it is fair to say that it has always been popular. If a competitive exam topic had been handed down from the skies to the perfumers' community asking them to come up with their own rendition of this accord, it would not have felt any different. To some extent, it all goes back to the agricultural roots of the trade. Just like one might visit an annual agricultural exhibition where the best Camemberts and Charolaises from France are shown and compared, one might be standing in front of shelves with perfumes such as Gucci by Gucci, YSL Elle, Dior Midnight Poison on them and see who got the gold medal of excellence. It is perfectly respectable that perfumes be about the refining of a traditional idea. In this case, originality is partial, and like good perfumes, subtle. Or if you prefer a more palatable comparison brought about by the thought association between Midnight Poison and 'Round Midnight and the idea of circularity, it is like a jazz standard that would be interpreted each time in different, personal, and creative ways.....  Femme au chapeau bleu, Picasso, 1944
Continue reading "'Round Midnight Poison by Dior {Scented Thoughts} " »
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Clean Slate '08 Sale at Lush {Shopping Tip}Lush have started to offer a noteworthy post-holiday shopping deal; for each pre-December product that you purchase you get another one for free! While supplies last. More details available on the Lush website.
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Editions de Parfums in Moscow, Luxury in Russia {Fragrance & Luxury News} FashionMag.fr (subscription only) has announced that Editions de Parfums have opened a boutique-within-a-store on November 29th 2007 at the venerable Tsum in Moscow. Many other Western beauty and luxury brands are establishing themselves in Russia and at the Tsum in particular. A quick look at the picture indicates that the Tsum department store has undergone a total makeover since the Soviet period when a certain air of grandeur was mixed then with more prosaic offerings. Next stops for maximum expansion for Frederic Malle are Ukraine and Kazakhstan. The high-end niche perfumery Malle founded, which proposes new standards of refinement, such as greater creative freedom for its stable of perfumers, authorial signatures on flacons, a refrigerator for optimal preservation of the perfumes, and scent columns to isolate oneself to smell the perfumes, will fit right in the new Russia which is developing an impressive taste for luxury, apparently as big as mother Russia itself....... Continue reading "Editions de Parfums in Moscow, Luxury in Russia {Fragrance & Luxury News}" »
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Justin Timberlake To Be The Face for New Givenchy Men's Fragrance {Celebrity Perfume} {Fragrance News & Rumors} Justin Timberlake, it is only rumored at this stage, could be the next celebrity to lend his appearance to the promotion of a Givenchy perfume after Liv Tyler for Very Irresistible. According to WWD (subscription only),
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