Monthly Archives from March 2006

December 2007 Archive

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December 1, 2007



Interview with Fragrance Expert Roja Dove - Part 4 {Passion for Perfume - Portrait} {Fragrance News}

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Roja Dove commissioned Baccarat to recreate the dolphin flacon of L'Océan Bleu by Lubin

 

This is part four and the last installment of our interview with fragrance expert and perfumer Roja Dove on the occasion of the launch of his three personal creations: Scandal, Unspoken, and Enslaved.

In this section he sheds light on his activities as the instrumental person behind many recreations of classic masterpieces of perfumery that can now be exclusively found in the Haute Parfumerie in London. Perfumistas in particular will be thrilled to learn of a few scoops regarding new recreations or creations that are to arrive soon.

The Haute Parfumerie does not have an e-commerce website, but you can mail order perfumes from the boutique using this telephone number: 020 7893 8797

If you missed the previous installments, you can read Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3.

Interview Part 4

 

Marie-Hélène Wagner: There is also your work as a historian of fragrances and we have heard about your attempts at resurrecting a number of fragrances. Could we have a clearer understanding of what you do? How do you convince people to put old perfumes back into production?

Roja Dove: [laughter] You have to be very persistent. The first thing I would say, which I am sure not many people realize about my perfumery, is that when we opened the perfumery I wrote a list of all the houses, in my opinion, that made great things. Then I wrote a list of what I thought those great things were…….. 

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Lubin L'Océan Bleu Advert from 1926

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December 2, 2007

Déjà Vu, Déjà Vu Rodin, Déjà Vu David & Venus, Déjà Vu 2, Déjà Vu Gay by Rothenstein Parfums {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand} {Fragrance News}

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We happened by chance on the site of a perfume brand that is very little known. We were not able to find one press article about them.

Rothenstein Parfums is a fragrance house offering several collections of perfumes and seems better publicized in Germany as they are succintly cited on German websites although they reportedly hail from France. Among their different lines, one in particular is intriguing, the Déjà Vu collection of fragrances dedicated to the art of love with references going from tantric love to homosexual love in passing by a homage paid to the famous sculpture by Rodin, Le Baiser -The Kiss. The flacons are each surmounted by a sculpture.

The perfumes were created by some renowned and lesser-known French perfumers including Francis Camail (Balmain Ivoire, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien, Réminiscence Patchouli, Bond No. 9 Little Italy) Anne Flipo, Paulette Laropoli, Jean-Paul Thebault........

Continue reading "Déjà Vu, Déjà Vu Rodin, Déjà Vu David & Venus, Déjà Vu 2, Déjà Vu Gay by Rothenstein Parfums {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand} {Fragrance News}" »

Comme des Garçons 888 Preview Store in London {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

888 Store.jpg

 

Experts in the art of happening and urban theatricality, Comme des Garçons have set up a temporary store to preview their new perfume 888 inspired by the smell of gold. It is located 5 Burlington Arcade, London W1. The show runs for about four more days and then the shop will close. 888 will be officially launched in March of 2008.

Read more......

Tamarind Paprika Limited Holiday Edition 2007 by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Fragrance} + Promo Code {Shopping Tip}

Tamarind Paprika DSH.jpg

Each year Dawn Spencer Hurwitz releases a special limited edition fragrance for the Holidays with a more definite festive and Christmas-y flavor. This year the theme of inspiration is derived from exotic dark fruits and spices incorporated into an unusual, both spicy and gentle brew called Tamarind Paprika in her upscale collection titled Parfums des Beaux-Arts.

Spencer Hurwitz is an independent artisan perfumer based in Boulder, Colorado whose creations are noteworthy for their consistently high quality and variety of sources of inspiration ranging from "études" on a perfume material to the olfactory renditions of colors and even historical reconstitutions. Her most recent endeavor, about which we would like to talk more at a later date titled "The Perfumed Court", after the nickname given to the court of Louis XV, is a recreation of 18th century perfumes based on the biography of perfumer Jean-Paul Fargeon and his royal patron queen Marie-Antoinette written by Elisabeth de Feydeau, A Scented Palace and which we reviewed last year.........

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December 3, 2007

Parfum de Femme by Montana {New Fragrance}

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After releasing its series of three perfumes embodying three moods in 2006 and designing a pâtisserie inspired by Parfum d'Elle last June, Montana is launching a new solo feminine fragrance this end of year called Parfum de Femme, as if in reference to Dino Risi's movie Profumo di Donna which gave the remake Scent of a Woman. The perfume is described as a floral-oriental.......

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Pictures of the New Divine Flagship Store in Paris {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Scented Images}

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As reported earlier, the niche perfume house Divine founded by Yvon Mouchel in 1986, which initially opened in Dinard in Brittany then recently secured a display area at the Bon Marché in Paris has now inaugurated a luxurious flagship store rue Scribe in the neighborhood of the Opéra in the capital city. The house offers a collection of six fragrances focusing on quality: "DIVINE, L'Ame Soeur, L'Infante, L'Inspiratrice, L'Homme Sage, L'Homme de Coeur".......

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The Pope's Cologne by Excelsis Fine Fragrances: An Homage to Pie IX (Mid to Late 1800's - 2006) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne} {Celebrity Fragrance}

 

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Through some mysterious accidents of history, the recipe for a cologne that was used by Pope Pie IX (1792-1878) - the longest reigning pope in the history of the Catholic church after Saint Peter (1846-1878) - ended up twelve years ago in the hands of a general physician from San Francisco, Fred Hass, who decided to resurrect the 19th century formula.

All that is known with some certainty is that the recipe left the Vatican premises in the luggage of the commander of the Pontifical Zouaves (the Pope's guard), Colonel Baron Anasthase De Charette, a French Catholic nobleman who had come to the rescue of the papacy in the troubled years of its struggles with Garibaldi.

How did this personal grooming item came to be passed on from the Pope to the head of his guard, who it seems, always the Frenchman, recognized the qualities of the perfume enough to wish to reproduce it, is another pretext for imaginative speculation and could probably be clarified only by descendants of the De Charette family, if anyone remembers anything about it still. This was also a time when fragrance recipes were liberally circulated in advice books and reproduced at home......

 

Young Pie IX.jpg
A young Pie IX or Pio Nono

Continue reading "The Pope's Cologne by Excelsis Fine Fragrances: An Homage to Pie IX (Mid to Late 1800's - 2006) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

December 4, 2007

Evening Edged in Gold by Ineke: Launch Postponed Until Jan 2008 {Fragrance News} {Shopping Tip}

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The much-awaited fifth fragrance by Ineke, Evening Edged in Gold, will be available at the beginning of 2008 instead of during the 2007 Holidays' season. This perfume house based in San Francisco opened its doors last year with a collection of four perfumes, which we wrote about here.........

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Burberry Launches The Beat {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}

The_Beat_Burberry.jpg
Image Nick Harvey/Wireimage.com - (Do not reproduce without Wireimage.com's permission)

Burberry held a launch party in London at trendy club Koko yesterday on December 3, 2007 to introduce its new fragrance called The Beat, developed in collaboration with Interparfums. The scent aims to reach the hip and young crowd while offering an older generation revivalist flavor combining canonic edgy references to Studio 54 and the Swinging Sixties in London. Who said the young could be left alone to define themselves? Like Calvin Klein more recently with CKIN2U, Burberry is offering its own fragranced version of youth culture and it is not so much techno as retro, but in disguise.......

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Nina by Nina Ricci Holiday Set + Bracelet Offer {Holiday Shopping Ideas & Tips - $75 or Less}

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Nina Ricci has put out a special Nina set for the Holidays which comprises an 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray, 3.4 oz Shower Gel and 3.4 oz Body Lotion. A $75.00 value, available now for $54.00.

Evidently, the red apple shaped flacon inspired by the earlier Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci makes for a cheerful and festive gift for the season. The scent itself is gourmand, based on a red apple caramel toffee accord. It was very popular in France before it came more recently to the US........

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Love, Beyond Love by By Kilian {Perfume Reviews & Musings} {New Fragrances}

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We just came back from a visit to the By Kilian website and we have to admit, the biggest shock we have experienced this year so far in terms of marketing attention-getting ploy, is not the by now infamous vision of a naked derrière belonging to Tom Ford or one of his cohorts (can’t remember and don’t care to) with accessorily a perfume bottle neatly tucked in between the cheeks, like a suppository, a felicitous association if ever there was one, but this: complete perfume formulas posted on a perfumer’s website to convince you that they, by contrast with the competition, truly do stand above the fray and the norm.......
Love_By_Kilian_Formula.jpg

Continue reading "Love, Beyond Love by By Kilian {Perfume Reviews & Musings} {New Fragrances}" »

December 5, 2007

Cosmic by Solange Agazury-Partridge (2007) {New Fragrance}

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London-based Jeweler Solange Agazury-Partridge has issued a new perfume creation following her debut scent in 2006, Stoned. The new one is called Cosmic and seems to retain similar gourmand elements albeit of an upscale quality, as well as continue to incorporate poetic mineral dust. Wherever your sense of luxury lies, for the brand it is to be found in particles of rare materials. Last time it was diamond dust, this time it is ground meteorites dust........

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Mwah by Chanelle Hayes {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

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Image Mike Marsland/Wireimage.com - (Do not reproduce without Wireimage.com's permission)
 

Mwah by Chanelle Hayes must be the ultimate abstract celebrity fragrance where image takes precedence over substance, i.e., the scent itself. It is impossible to find any information about the jus contained in the bottle. Who cares anyway, right? The ruby red glass bottle looks cute and Chanelle Hayes strikes all the right enticing poses for the media, a perfume flacon strategically placed in her hand; it matches her lipstick too.

The reporters flock to the event to officially discover the fragrance that has become a mere accessory in the pursuit of fame and brand recognition building. But at least with Alex by Alex Curran or Coleen X there were some passing mentions of the jus. Nobody is pretending anymore after a volley of celebs scents hit the market. It's all about everything else but the perfume. That bottle is asking itself "What am I doing here, really?"

It gets an award from us for "Most Obscure Celebrity Fragrance" of 2007 because it's simply irrelevant to ask what the notes are, therefore the perfume itself is the most obscure of them all........

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Cyprès by Rigaud: The Nec Plus Ultra of Scented Candles {Holiday Shopping Ideas & Tips - $75 or Less} {Fragrant Reading}

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As we already said before in our review of Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Cyprès de Rigaud is one of the most popular candles in France. Its scent is very forest-y, balsamic. An article in the Times relates its history and how Jackie Kennedy used to love to use it to scent the White House.......

Continue reading "Cyprès by Rigaud: The Nec Plus Ultra of Scented Candles {Holiday Shopping Ideas & Tips - $75 or Less} {Fragrant Reading}" »

December 6, 2007

Diptyque Fragrance Collection {Holiday Shopping Ideas & Tips - $100 or Less} + Promo Code

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Diptyque has put out a delightful coffret for the Holidays containing four of its best-loved fragrances: Philosykos (fig), Tam Dao (sandalwood), Do Son (tuberose), and L'Ombre Dans L'Eau (rose)......

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December 2007 Archive

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