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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

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6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

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From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Maison Francis Kurkdjian To Open by Summer 2009: New Fragrance House Goes Beyond The Niche Concept & Opts for Pluralism {Fragrance News}



Francis-Kurkdjian-3.jpgFrancis Kurkdjian at the French embassy in Washington D.C. in June 2008


Renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian who already operates independently as a bespoke perfumer (also see his malle du parfumeur) aside from his Takasago corporate affiliation has announced that he will establish his own fragrance house in Paris by summer 2009.

It will be called Maison Francis Kurkdjian and will be located in the first arrondissement of the French capital city.

The name Maison Francis Kurkdjian promises to recover a new multi-layered reality of the perfume scene and perhaps inspire others in the future. One of the things it is not? A brand, bien sûr.

The interesting aspect of this non-brand project is the complexity and comprehensiveness of the concept that guides the foundation of the perfume house and its aim in particular to go beyond the by now classic concept of "niche perfumery"....
Serge Lutens recently quipped that he, one of the main creators of this concept, had to realize that by now niche perfumery was like a very pretty girl that had turned out badly. This unofficial implicit label of quality has become something of a milk cow for a number of people and does not necessarily guarantee a higher level of creativity and aesthetic experience, except perhaps as more often seen than not, in pricing.

Kurkdjian promises to cut through the notion of exclusivity that can be easily manipulated and to create a versatile high-and-low kind of perfumery, even giving pride of place to products such as detergents. How customers will react to this anti-snob pluralistic move will be interesting to watch.

He also marks his affiliation to the storied school of perfumery rather than the one that likes to create taking raw ingredients or natural elements of the world as departure points, often characterized as the Grasseois school of perfumery.

According to Cosmetic News,

"the Maison Francis Kurkdjian will not, its creator insists, mark the launch of a signature brand. "It's a [fragrance] house that has its owner and friends, but not a brand. And even less so a niche brand--I don't associate myself with what one would call niche," he says, underlining that he wishes to concentrate on creating scents "centered around an inspiration, a story [rather than] guided by [single ingredients like] rose, patchouli or mimosa"--although natural raw ingredients will be heavily emphasized. The Kurkdjian house will not confine itself to the prestige channel or even to fine fragrances--its founder intends to offer products in all price ranges and is considering the possibility of rolling out a detergent in homage to his debuts at Netherlands-based fragrance manufacturer Quest International, where he co-created a cleaning products line."

Via Cosmetic News

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