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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

March 2009 Archive

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March 29, 2009

RIP Jade Goody - Her Perfume Used in Grief Ritual {Celebrity Fragrances - Perfume & Society}


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Ex-Big Brother reality show star Jade Goody passed away last week on March 22, 2009. After being announced in August 2008 on the Indian version of the reality show, Big Boss, that she had terminal cervical cancer and only a few months to live, she had been preparing for her passing away and in particular accepting media coverage as far into her illness as she could bear in order reportedly to raise funds for her two sons Bobby, five, and Freddie, four.

Jade Goody released two perfumes as a celebrity. The first one Shh...in 2006 and the second one Controversial in 2008.

Accused at one point of making racist comments against actress Shilpa Shetty, The Perfume Shop had withdrawn her debut fragrance from their shelves in the wake of the media storm she triggered...

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Continue reading "RIP Jade Goody - Her Perfume Used in Grief Ritual {Celebrity Fragrances - Perfume & Society}" »

Another Olfactory Facet of Outer Space: A Whiff of Vacuum is the Next Big Trend {The 5th Sense in the News}


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Astronaut Michael Fincke on March 10, courtesy of Nasa via AP


A new olfactory frontier lies in capturing the scents of outer space. If fragrance has always thrived on the lure of mystery and half-unveiled truths, galactic scents will be one significant and sophisticated source of inspiration for the perfumery of the 21st century.

In the past, Shiseido attempted to recreate the scent of a rose flown aboard a space shuttle with Zen (white bottle) as in a poetic reminiscence of Le Petit Prince by Saint-Exupery; Omega Ingredients more recently was working on a reconstitution of the smells of outer space for astronaut-training purposes declaring the main olfactory notes to be welded hot metal and fried steak; an exhibition on Extinct and Impossible Smells aimed to offer the imagined scent of the surface of the sun; Stephen Jones with Comme des Garçons offered last year a "violet hit by a meteorite" that smelled in part of dusty minerals; now, we are offered a more elaborate description of further other-wordly olfactory facets...

Continue reading "Another Olfactory Facet of Outer Space: A Whiff of Vacuum is the Next Big Trend {The 5th Sense in the News}" »

March 30, 2009

The Scented Salamander Featured in Vogue Russia {Fragrance News}

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Yesterday, I got a lovely email from Daneen Baird of Spoiled Pretty letting me know that The Scented Salamander blog had been featured in Vogue Russia. Without her, I would have never even suspected of course. An adorable Russian reader of her blog did a scan of the article and sent it to Daneen who was featured in the article as well. Galina found the article in the May 2008 edition as she was reading through back issues.

I translated the text about The Scented Salamander blog in both English and French.

Many thanks to both Daneen and Galina for the news and the scans!

Author: perfume critic Marie-Hélène Wagner
Specialty : New perfumes and cosmetics
Updated : almost every day
Why should you read it : for industry news and new releases in niche perfumery. On the blog you learn for example that Barbara Bui is going to resurrect her perfume line, that architect Jean Nouvel has redesigned the bottle of L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent. There is information about rare perfumes. The blog is well organized; you can look up new releases by categories: celebrity perfumes, shopping ideas, reviews of new products, articles.

Auteur : la critique de parfum Marie-Hélène Wagner
Spécialisation :  nouveautés en parfumerie et cosmétiques
Mise à jour: presque chaque jour
Pourquoi il faut le lire: pour les nouvelles concernant l'industrie du parfum et les nouveautés en parfumerie de niche. On apprend par exemple sur le blog que Barbara Bui va ressusciter sa ligne de parfums, que l'architecte Jean Nouvel a retravaillé le design du flacon de l'Homme de Yves Saint Laurent. On y trouve des informations sur les parfums rares. Le blog est bien organisé: on peut rechercher les nouveautés par catégories : parfums de célébrités,  idées shopping, comptes rendus de nouveautés, articles.

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China Beauty Expo in Shanghai, May 18-20, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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The 14th edition of China Beauty Expo, a major beauty and perfume trade show is going to take place in Shanghai from May 18 to May 20, 2009. China represents an emerging market in which cosmetics and fragrance brands are keen on investing although the latter category reportedly requires more of a cultural overhaul to get more widely adopted by the Chinese...

Continue reading "China Beauty Expo in Shanghai, May 18-20, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

Nostalgia Sells Beauty


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An article in the Times Online reports about the nostalgic trend in beauty. Vintage-inspired packaging and concepts strike the fantasy and sentimental chords in us. It is not long before we cave in (I did personally for a mascara by Besame based on a 1930s recipe -- haven't opened it yet though). Bourjois attempted to lure us in with the cutest of retro rouge boxes last fall (there I didn't cave because the colors are the same as in the regular collection). I caved for the 1950s-inspired Elizabeth 8 Hours lip balm, but more because it was so good than because of the packaging.

Columnist Edwina Ings-Chambers writes,

"We all have one beauty product that we buy (or would if we could) for nostalgic reasons. For me, it's Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, the body lotion in particular. That's what my mother prized, back in the days when it was still blue (the pale, romantic shade of an old silk nightdress). If they were to reissue it, I'd be first in the purchasing queue, just because of her...

Continue reading "Nostalgia Sells Beauty " »

King of Shaves Azure for Women (2009)

King-of-Shaves-Azure-Woman.jpgThe King of Shaves has decided to done on the crown of the queen of shaves with a new, reportedly super-performance razor for women. It's the feminine version of Azor and it's called Woman Azure System Razor. The design looks sleek as can be and it even seems actually to be wearing high heels!

You are also put in the hands of woman master barber Diane Wood, the daughter of Adrian Wood, owner of famous NYC barber shop, Paul Molé, who has some great tips for improving your shaving technique. An anecdote worth telling is that she was on the Letterman show as she was asked to give their first shaves to the writers at the end of the national strike....

Diane Wood, who seems to love her job

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Continue reading "King of Shaves Azure for Women (2009) " »

Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co. White Bergamot (2008) Nominated for the UK Beauty Awards {Fragrance News} {Green Products}



BSQ-Bergamot-2.jpgWhite Bergamot by Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co., is part of their Natural Couture collection, a library of scents that aims to appeal to both the sophisticated sorts and the green-minded.

The collection was developed together with the Victoria & Albert Museum and features the stylish fashion photographies of John French (1906-1966) on the packaging. But even beyond that, the scents from the collection, which also includes White Amber and White Muguet, were inspired by the photographies displayed at the exhibition on French's work, The Golden Age of Couture...

Continue reading "Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co. White Bergamot (2008) Nominated for the UK Beauty Awards {Fragrance News} {Green Products}" »

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte (2009) {New Perfume} Chanel & Guerlain:Their Youth Appeal {Scented Thoughts}


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A New Flanker to Cristalle

Chanel will release a new flanker to Cristalle called Cristalle Eau Verte (Cristalle Green Water) set to be introduced on April 17th 2009 in the French market. It is signed by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge (who works with Christopher Sheldrake now).

Cristalle was originally composed in 1974 by then in-house nose Henri Robert. An eau-de-parfum version created by Jacques Polge saw the light of day in 1993.

Cristalle Eau Verte is an Eau de Toilette concentrée like Cristalle...

Continue reading "Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte (2009) {New Perfume} Chanel & Guerlain:Their Youth Appeal {Scented Thoughts}" »

March 31, 2009

Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri Offer a New Perfume Sample Program {Shopping Tip}


Keiko-Mecheri-Samples.jpgFragrance samples are very popular amongst perfumistas, you can guess why. So I am glad to be able to report that Keiko Mecheri parfums have set up a brand new sampling program through their recently-launched website.

You have three main options: 1) you can order samples of all 30 fragrances from the collection for $48. They come in "a large coffer with blotter cards for smelling the scents. This is accompanied by a beautiful bound booklet explaining each scent and the philosophy of Keiko Mecheri."...

Continue reading "Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri Offer a New Perfume Sample Program {Shopping Tip}" »

Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection is Back {Shopping Tip}


Kohdo-Wood-09.jpgFollowing the great success of the limited-edition Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection launched in 2008 (it quickly sold out), it was brought back this year in the US (it was actually still available in France). Available on the Jo Malone website.

You can check our reviews of Lotus Blossom & Water Lily and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily.

Korres Black Tea & Verbena Anticellulite Cream-Gel (2009)


Black-Tea-Verbena-B.jpgKorres Natural Products, a brand hailing from Greece, has introduced a new product for the body called Black Tea & Verbena Anti-Cellulite Cream-Gel. It is meant to be a complementary addition to the anti-cellulite program created by the brand with "Guarana exfoliating body soap, Geranium and Grapefruit massage oil for firming body and reducing the appearance of cellulite and Prunella and Grape firming body cream gel." The claim is to reduce the appearance of cellulite rather than zap it as well as to help "contour" the body...

Continue reading "Korres Black Tea & Verbena Anticellulite Cream-Gel (2009) " »

Nostalgic Beauty - King of Shaves Azure for Women - Korres Black Tea & Verbena {Beauty Notes}


Beauty-Salamander-Logo.jpgHere are the latest beauty posts at Beauty and The Salamander:

Nostalgia Sells Beauty (Reading)

King of Shaves Azure for Women (New product)

Korres Black Tea and Verbena Anti-Cellulite Cream-Gel (New product)

Korres has also launched a new trio of perfumes: Rosewood, Blackcurrant, Cyclamen/ Saffron, Amber Agarwood, Cardamom/ Pepper, Jasmine, Gaiac Wood, Passion Fruit.

Hope they are better than some of their previous ones which had left me underwhelmed! They do sound more elaborate.

March 2009 Archive

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Categories

Latest Comments

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

abdellab mahmoudi on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : bonsoir c'est vrai que c'est un parfum à la fois doux et ...

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