Guerlain Muguet (2009): A One-Day Limited Edition, Available on April 30th {Perfume Review} + A Prize Drawing

Like each year, Guerlain releases its anniversary Muguet (Lily of the Valley) perfume (see the 2006 edition). Tomorrow April 30th, you will be able to discover the 2009 version in the Guerlain boutiques worldwide, but for just one day. Guerlain traditionally releases a muguet scent each year in anticipation of the 1st of May when sprigs of muguet are exchanged as charming tokens of spring renewal and good luck in France. As if mimicking the ephemeral quality of the fragile muguet scent which is both strong and little-lasting over the days, the Guerlain Muguet is like a bouquet of lily of the valleys to be enjoyed for a short span of time. Subtitled "Un Jour, Un Parfum"(One Day, One Perfume), the one-day launch is an event charged with both traditional symbolism and luxury acumen.
How It Wafts
The opening of Muguet 2009 is quite literally and pleasantly soapy (it smells like a refined soap), almost bubbly like Badedas fizz, fresh, green (grassy), but at the same time contrasted with raspy and indolic, almost masculine jasmine notes. Soon a more dramatic sense of intoxication and amorous abandon of the senses momentarily concludes the opening stage.
This beginning I see as an olfactory shock meant to provoke an emotion in the smeller/wearer. It is a way of telling you, "see what I am capable of", but the perfume soon calms down.
Le Muguet by Guerlain immediately appears to be a stylized yet natural-smelling muguet.The stylization effect rests on both exaggerated traits and added-on ones. There is an enhanced indolic accord of honeyed lilac and muguet mingling with softer green and white floral notes and more angular, sharper leather and nail-polish notes surfacing from the base then overtaking the stage. This "violence" or tempest, in a bottle, soon recedes while the underlying, heavier floral notes remain of a raw, raspy, bold nature...
One can catch that more impolite facet of muguet, but rather fleetingly, when it is exhaling more powerfully before dying. In Guerlain Muguet, a stylization effect is created through the significant showcasing of a moment that one in everyday life might not have even noticed or only for a brief moment.
The whole of the composition is also blanketed by a creamy-white cashmere-like texture punctuated by lemon-scented dots, an added-on facet and a sensation evocative of chinchilla, angora, all things fluffy and white. This reference to a snowy-white impression is not completely arbitrary to my nose as muguet in its natural state offers a pure and icy-cold freshness, as expounded upon previously. The base of the perfume is creamy, white and animalic/indolic at the same time, without being powdery at all. Muguet by Guerlain is more like a crème de muguet than a crystal clear fountain as the old Diorissimo used to be.
The perfume offers affinities with Cruel Gardenia by Guerlain and Beige by Chanel in this soft creamy white floral quality that betrays a note of privileged comfort, suggestive of a silk worm cocoon. A final touch of watery floralcy in the longer drydown suddenly evokes the white aqueous floralcy of Fleur de Liane. The velvety facet even takes on a doughy, almost edible quality. It is not too long before the vision of a white chocolate ganache appears and one could easily imagine a shiny white chocolate bar scented with bergamot essence, iris, cacao, lilac and muguet which would taste the way it smells to the nose. The gustatory quality however appears in filigree rather than as a literal statement, like the beginning of an impression of a mouthful.
A clearer, more head-note-like greener, more dewy muguet accord emerges from the folds of whiteness after a while. Thanks to its modern perfumery persona the base of the scent is lifted by lighter, spring-like notes, anew, instead of sinking down for good. The muguet becomes all-natural smelling after having taken a detour through cloth material and subliminal gustatory textures, especially in its sillage effect, further away from the skin. It just smells of fresh muguet, like a green, dewy aura.
Muguet Eau de Toilette by Guerlain is all in all delightful, especially when it releases its lily-of-the-valley soul in full. It is also a very expensive little thing. A 60 ml bottle is priced at 250 Euros. But you also pay for the privilege of obtaining a very-limited edition perfume issued at only 785 copies. It is first and foremost a collector's item.
One can see a potential tension arising between the tastes of lovers of the modest lily of the valley scent and the luxurious Guerlain staging of Muguet. Yet, if you remember that Dior made muguet a sign of haute-couture luxury and that Diorissimo was a symbol of elegance for decades, then through this thread of cultural symbols, perhaps the scent of muguet can be convincingly construed as exclusive. Certainly the spiritual lightness of lily of the valley note which has deserted somewhat the new Diorissimo, can still be felt here, but as if covered up in part by a warm white fur stole, à la Guerlain.
Notes listed are: bergamot, lilac, muguet, jasmine, rose.
You can leave a comment to be entered in a prize drawing for two samples of Muguet by Guerlain (2009). Two winners will be selected by a random number generator (once I receive my decanting supplies!)
Une version française de ce texte est disponible sur Anthropologie du Parfum (il ne s'agit pas d'une traduction).
Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:
Rochas Eau Sensuelle (2009): Simplified Rochas Signature
Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte (2009): Unfettered Flanker or The New Freshness of Magnolia
Christian Dior Escale a Pondichery (2009): Hedonistic Cologne



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Comments
I'm curious about this...anything by Guerlain is a must-try. I love that you say it's "delightful"!!!
Posted by: karin | April 29, 2009
Yes, it is lighthearted and delightful. I'd say that "delightful" is underrated, but a very nice aesthetic emotion to experience with a perfume. I think that the natural scent of muguet is delightful, like the laughter of a child.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 29, 2009
I have been sticking my nose in every lily of the valley I come across for the past week so I suppose I am craving something just like this. Although, as you say, an expensive little thing.
Posted by: JAntoinette | April 29, 2009
Lol is one of my favorite white flowers and this sounds so lovely. Please enter me in the draw. Thanks!!!
Posted by: ChantillyLace | April 29, 2009
I just recently discovered that muguet and lily of the valley were indeed the same thing. I think limited editions can be fun but this one is a bit too expensive for my taste.
Posted by: madlc | April 29, 2009
If I were in Paris...but I am not. Would love an opportunity to sample the Guerlain muguet.
Posted by: ScentScelf | April 29, 2009
I HAD THE 1999 VERSION OF MUGUET, THE BOTTLE WAS BEAUTIFUL, I DIDN'T LIKE THE SCENT THAT MUCH AND I SOLD IT AFTER A COUPLE OF YEARS OR SO. I WOULD LIKE TO TRY THIS ONE, ITSEEMS VERY PROMISING:)
Posted by: PERFUME MANIAC | April 29, 2009
Your description makes me wish I could buy it on the spot. Like Karin said, anything from Guerlain is a must-try.
Posted by: Ssy | April 29, 2009
I feel incredibly greedy asking to be entered in another draw (if my browser cooperated I just entered the Hilary Duff draw), but this year's edition of Muguet sounds so breathtakingly beautiful that I am compelled to ask that I be entered in the draw.
Posted by: Ninara Poll | April 29, 2009
This sounds very intereting. I would really like to try it. I adore Chanel Beige and am interested on how they compare, but 250 euro...WOW. I guess I'll just have to hope I win the drawing. Your description of lily of the valley covered in a warm white fur stole is wonderful! Thanks
Posted by: tara | April 29, 2009
This sound beautiful and perfect for the windy spring days we are having.
Please enter me in the draw.
Posted by: Janet in CA | April 30, 2009
JAntoinette,
Definitely, an expensive, precious little thing. It has very good diffusion and lasts into the next day despite the fact that it is billed as an eau de toilette. So, definitely also a good quality muguet. The Diorissimo is less expensive but does not last very well, in its new incarnation.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
ChantillyLace,
Isn't it lovely? I will have to back-track on what I said about the scent of muguet being unique...just smelled some peonies that smelled a little like LOV!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
madic,
Yes, it can be confusing...everyone is entitled to think that they represent slightly different local species ;)
This limited edition is a little bit like Christmas in the middle of spring. I think that you pay quite a bit for it being constructed as an object of luxury: 1-day happening, luxurious packaging, above average quality for a muguet perfume (it is not fleeting).
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
ScentSelf,
You're in! I was told it is available in other cities than Paris, abroad. But I only saw the names of capital cities. In France, people who live outside of Paris have to call the flagship store to order.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
PERFUME MANIAC,
I'm pretty sure it does not smell like the 1999 version because the 2009 version smells very trendy. It is muguet plus the white mellow base that appears in cruel gardénia, l'instant magic and a number of white furry florals these days.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
Ssy,
If you are addicted to lily of the valley, I could see you spring for this one. I am very glad I had the opportunity to try this one myself.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
Ninara Poll,
Not a problem, don't be shy! These drawings are open to all and everyone as many times as you wish to take the time to enter them!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
tara,
You're welcome! To me it was interesting to test the Guerlain take on Muguet. I think you can see the house's touch in this warm-cold contrast.
I keep meaning to publish my review of Beige. I have it on paper, which has delayed me from transferring the whole thing to the blog, although I've had the perfume since last fall!!!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
Janet in CA,
I think that this is the kind of scent that leaves room for a woman to express her own aura. What I mean by that is that it does not say "masterpiece", but as the right complement to a person's style, it could be very lovely.
I have been struck more and more lately by how a perfume smells so much better when it blends in effortlessly with the style and demeanor of a person.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
THANKS for your very precise description , the fragrance each year is the same, but not the bottle !
the muguet 2009 bottle , it is really superb
Posted by: delacourte | April 30, 2009
Mrs. Delacourte,
Thank you for your comment and for dropping by. The perfume feels so up-to-date that I, as I said earlier on, I thought it felt like it had benefited from the latest perfumery reworkings. I didn't know that Guerlain felt they had to offer *exactly* the same muguet perfume each year! I see now that it is not supposed to be a vintage but, in principle, a well-tested and controlled formulation.
Many thanks for the precision.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
That's why I read this blog-- who knew that there are perfumes that come out for a single day?! I'd love to be entered in the drawing. What a treat to have a treasure like that!
Posted by: aubrey | April 30, 2009
I know, it's crazy luxury, but luxury is bit crazy anyway. It always wants to defy gravity, common-sense and such things. That's why it's so compelling and makes people pay attention!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | April 30, 2009
I've always loved lily of the valley. I remember finding it in my yard in the spring (a late Chicago spring) when I was growing up. Sadly, now I have a flat and no yard. Please enter me in the drawing.
Posted by: Libby | April 30, 2009
I'd love to be included in the draw! :)
Posted by: Deanna | April 30, 2009
This sounds lovely and would be an elegant addition to display on your dresser what a stunning bottle.
Posted by: Audrey | May 1, 2009
You're in! On May the 1st in France, lily of the valley literally grows on the sidewalks :)
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 1, 2009
You're in! :)
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 1, 2009
Absolutely! The bottle looks even handsomer and more imposing in real life!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 1, 2009
Oh, I would love to try this!
Posted by: datura5750 | May 1, 2009
Please include me in the draw...I wonder if Bergdorfs has it today ?
Posted by: WaftbyCarol | May 1, 2009
You're in!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 1, 2009
I don't know now anymore if they mentioned New York city but and I don't know how strictly they stick to the 1-day rule. Best thing is to call them I guess.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 1, 2009
I forgot to mention-- please enter me too!! :)
Posted by: aubrey | May 1, 2009
I would love to be entered into the drawing.
Thanks!
Posted by: KathyT | May 1, 2009
Please include me too! It sounds absolutely lovely.
Posted by: Janet | May 1, 2009
Is this still open? I'd love to be included in the contest too! Thanks,
Laura M
Posted by: Laura Morris | May 2, 2009
The fleeting beauty of Lily of the Valley! It grows in a patch of woods near my cottage but if I miss the week or so it's there, I have to wait all year.
Posted by: Gail | May 2, 2009
I grow lily of the valley and would like to be entered into the drawing, too.
Posted by: Cynthia | May 2, 2009
Dear Marie- Helene,
As always , your writing is a pleasure . Please enter me in the draw .
I wore Diorissimo - with gay abandon in the 70's notably in 1974 - while a nursing student @Syracuse University . It was during my Maternity Nursing - rotation - in the spring.
I came to associate the joyful anticipation of the arrival of newborn babies with the arrival of Spring - . Spring, rebirth , renewa, Diorissimo .
I am deeply disappointed with its current formulation- courtesy of Saks 5th Avenue. It was verdant, sparkling, effervescent , floral with a powerful , musky drydown.
Now it is metallic, and awkward.
Guerlain's Muguet as you so eloquently discuss- sounds tempting - even for the price.
Posted by: Madelyn54 | May 3, 2009
I love muguet and would like to be entered in the drawing. Thank you
Posted by: Madelyn54 | May 3, 2009
Dear Madelyn,
Thank you for your kind words. I have been putting together an article about Diorissimo and will get back to it. You're in!
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | May 3, 2009
I adore muguet, and I would love to be in the draw! I would like to see how this stuff stacks up against my personal favorite, Caron's Muguet de Bonheur.
Posted by: Flora | May 4, 2009