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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Juliette Has a Gun Calamity J (2009): Fronted by a Naked Lou Doillon: "A Masculine Scent for Women" {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


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Juliette Has a Gun is preparing to launch a new fragrance called Calamity J. Funny, because this time the confidential fragrance label is turning to French star power by hiring the daughter of popular actress Jane Birkin and movie director Jacques Doillon, Lou Doillon.  When you say "Jane" in France, you don't think of Calamity Jane but rather of Jane Birkin, the ex-wife of singer Serge Gainsbourg, or maybe Jane Fonda too, the ex-wife of Vadim. It may also conjure up Jane, the companion of Tarzan.

Lou Doillon has a rocker charm that will go well with the gun-smoking, hold-no-barrels-in-the-domain-of-seduction imagery of the perfume house. In fact, the advert shows a bare-chested Lou photographed by Sonia Sieff, a sight that will probably fly better with the authorities in France than in some other countries. I would not have noticed it so much if the thought that a niche perfume house was not only taking the celebs route but on top of that counting on the eternal appeal of nakedness to boost its sales, made me smile. Niche fragrance houses are deemed purists and in principle destined to fulfill more than others the difficult mission of calling attention mainly to the jus itself.

lou-doillon-nue.jpgAnother twist is that Calamity J is dubbed "a masculine for women" -- not a "unisex" mind you, what an ugly-fuggly word obviously -- in the sense, for founder Romano Ricci, that it rests upon a patchouli-musk accord evocative of "the perfume of a dandy, masculine yet sophisticated." The dandy is quintessentially masculine but can teach a thing or two to women in his field, elegance...

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The perfume is firstly defined by what it is not. It is not a floral, fruity or hesperidic fragrance. It puts the accent on a woody-ambery personality. Notes are: a masculine base made out of patchouli together with amber, iris and musk.

Romano Ricci said that he was not excluding the possibility of keeping Lou Doillon as the permanent face for the collection.

In the perfume-cum-celebrity news, you will also be able to contemplate the face of Lou Doillon's half-sister, Charlotte Gainsbourg who just won the golden palm for best actress at Cannes Festival and will be gracing the ads of the upcoming Balenciaga perfume.

Other alternative labels like Etat Libre d'Orange and Comme des Garçons have not hesitated to follow the very mainstream trend of celebrity fragrances, but as I remarked earlier on, the celebs selected are different, more in their image, more underground-culture and less full-on glam.

Via Fashionmag.fr; flavor-magazine.com 

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