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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

December 2009 Archive

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December 1, 2009



Another Episode in the Dispute between LVMH & eBay {Fragrance/Luxury News}


Louis-Vuitton-B.jpg 2009 Holidays window display at Louis Vuitton


Number one luxury group LVMH has felt particularly targeted by the gray market and vulnerable to counterfeiters operating on the #1 online auction site eBay. In a step-up of their demands (see series of posts), they have been wanting for eBay to stop allowing the "distribution" of their goods even when authentic.

For this reason, it has become for example virtually impossible to find vintage perfumes by Guerlain or Givenchy or even empty bottles of those on eBay.fr except when someone goes undercover selling them without using the brand name.

LVMH is keen on publicizing a zero-tolerance policy and continues to sue eBay until it seems they can get to the last private seller standing, a position that eBay finds practically unreasonable and objects to on the grounds that LVMH are trying to crush the laws of market competition.....

Continue reading "Another Episode in the Dispute between LVMH & eBay {Fragrance/Luxury News}" »

Red Lipstick Series Starts with Crazy Horse Cabaret Lippie {Beauty Notes}


Red-lipstick-Series-2.jpgI have started The Red Lipstick Series to brighten the long winter days on Beauty & The Salamander. Check out Rouge Crazy today, inspired by the Crazy Horse Cabaret in Paris.

Keeping Up with the Kardashians Season Four {Cultural Notes}


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Keeping Up with the Kardashians has nothing to do with Kim Kardashian perfume, yet everything to do with it. Reality TV is one of the passions of 21st century society and it is going to help create the publicity necessary for the upcoming signature perfume of Kim Kardashian to get noticed. 

"Keeping up with the Kardashians returns for its fourth season with a very special season premiere, Sunday, Dec. 13 at 10/9c, only on E!

Watch as a tempest of siblings, business and fame engulf Olympic decathlete Bruce Jenner and paparazzi fave Kim Kardashian as their huge Hollywood families collide!"


December 2, 2009

Balenciaga Paris EDP: More News {New Perfume}


balenciaga paris ad.jpgBalenciaga decided to launch their new perfume Balenciaga Paris which signs their return to the fragrance world in London yesterday on December 1, 2009. Coty Prestige UK Managing Director Liz Garrett stressed the importance of the event by calling it "The birth of a new house." The new fragrance, a "violet chypre" is presented as the fulfillment of a 10-year-old dream by Balenciaga artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière who had been wanting to rekindle the perfume identity of the brand ever since his first days at the couture house...

Continue reading "Balenciaga Paris EDP: More News {New Perfume}" »

Sean John Unforgivable Night & I Am King of the Night (2009) {New Fragrances} {Celebrity Perfumes}

unforgivable-night-sean-john.jpg
Sean John aka P Diddy is entering winter with two new nocturnal perfumes, Unforgivable Night for Men cologne, a flanker to Unforgivable and I Am King of the Night for Men, a variation on I Am King. The "night" motif is more often than not used in perfumery to denote a more intense and sometimes sexier composition.

For Unforgivable Men Night EDT, the blend is now more intense and even boozier...


sean-john-i-am-king-night.jpg

Continue reading "Sean John Unforgivable Night & I Am King of the Night (2009) {New Fragrances} {Celebrity Perfumes}" »

16 Baby Approved Perfumes {Fragrance List} {Shopping Tips}


baby-girl-perfume-B.jpg

We are so used to representing to our selves the scents of babies as eminently desirable that the reaction to the idea of perfuming your little bundles of love can be one of incredulity or sarcasm. I remember years ago reading a shopping guide to baby products and encountering the reaction of the author in a brief passage dedicated to baby perfumes. He or she had two main points to make 1) this was an European idea, hence understandably somewhat strange; 2) use perfume only if you think your baby stinks, which was phrased in such a way as to let you feel  that you would be a monster to think that babies ever smell. Culturally, we are trained to focus on the cuddly smells of babies and forget about the rest, which nevertheless exists aplenty. Saying - or even thinking - something like "my baby smells" is not easy because it feels judgmental rather than objective.


I would like to say however that perfuming is not just about deodorizing, and therefore the point is moot for me. Perfuming is a gesture of refinement. It adds beauty to the world and will no doubt create a bond with your children, a reservoir of memories into which to tap in the future.

Here is a list of Baby Approved Perfumes if you want to explore this option. Many women also like to use baby fragrances as they are alcohol-free and discreetly scented. In the summer, they are a good solution for the beach. Don't forget too that they make great baby-shower gifts! And why not offer perfume to a baby or a new mom for the Holidays?


clayeux-baby-perfumes.jpgClayeux Eau de Senteur Moi Bébé Bleu & Rose (Aroma Water Me Blue, Pink Baby), from birth


This adorable multiple award-winning duo is kept warm in a protective woolly sock which was meant to embody purity. Both are formulated without alcohol, were clinically tested and can be worn by newborns. Moi Bébé Bleu is a gourmand and floral scent with notes of lemon tree blossom, orange flower and bergamot. Moi Bébé Rose is a fresh white floral scent with notes of iris and jasmine.

Available at bebe-beaute.com for 28,25€ each

 

 

love-chic-baby.jpg

Love Chic Baby Coco & Momo, from 6 months

The bottles contain heart glasses.

"Love, Chic Baby for Girls - Coco scent is a soft burst of crisp,, floral freshness that delicately captures the innocence and youthful radiance of little girls. For Girls is formulated with a soft bouquet of Pink Mandarin, Italian Bergamot, Water Lily, Pink Peony, Yellow Freesia, Island Pineapple, and Sheer Rose.

Love, Chic Baby for Boys - Momo combines a soft, refreshing blend of fruits for a light, crisp scent. For Boys is formulated with Mandarin, Orange, Pink Grapefruit, Wild Strawberry, Melon, and Dewberry.

Available at babyoliverboutique.com for $34,50 each.





Nivea-Baby-eau-de-senteur.jpgNivea Eau de Senteur

A gentle linden blossom scent formulated without alcohol.

nivea.fr....

Continue reading "16 Baby Approved Perfumes {Fragrance List} {Shopping Tips}" »

December 3, 2009

Jaye Hersh It fragrance: So L.A. {Spotlight on a Brand}


It-Perfume_Jaye-Hersh.jpg
I know there is that special brand of perfumes that incurs the favor of Californians and especially L.A.-based celebrities. My personal theory is that the largest egos do not wear perfume and when they do, they need hush-hush perfumes that do not overshadow them.

Jaye Hersh the owner of Shop Intuition knows a thing or two about the mores of the town in which she lives because her signature fragrance is called It and it's very discreet, clean and sexy. This sounds L.A. to a T to my mind. The scent is meant to meld with your personality rather than take any particle of attention away from it....

Continue reading "Jaye Hersh It fragrance: So L.A. {Spotlight on a Brand}" »

Aftelier Trevert (2009) {New Fragrance}


Aftelier-Trevert.jpg
Mandy Aftel the owner of and perfumer for Aftelier the all-natural perfumery has released a new perfume called Trèvert, a portmanteau word meaning "very green" in French.

"Verdant pine absolute, leafy flouve absolute, and ambery clary sage contribute to this "very green" eau de parfum."

Flouve Odorante or Anthoxanthum odoratum is reputed for its coumarine-like scent.

Available 30 ml for $150 at aftelier.com

JLO Blue Glow (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}



JLO BlueGlow.jpgJennifer Lopez just released a perfume called My Glow inspired by motherhood topped with a cutesie cherub. While her twins are growing, the Glow portfolio obviously wants to do the same. In February 2010, there will be a new Glow scent called Blue Glow by JLO.

It's a fruity-floral eau de toilette blended with exotic fruits, a vintage rose and even -- confession time -- a wizard perfume aromachemical designed by Givaudan, the giant fragrance supplier, called Florymoss...

Continue reading "JLO Blue Glow (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

Nasomatto Black Afgano Extrait: Oversize This {New Flacon} {Luxury Perfume}


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Nasomatto the Italian perfume brand that claims to be the work of a "crazy nose" might finally convince the last of the remaining skeptics that this is not just marketing. Black Afgano, an ink-colored hashish-based fragrance reportedly painstakingly sourced from behind the lines of fire in Afghanistan is now available in an oversized flacon of extrait that seems to be a candidate for the Guinness Book of World Records while appearing to be seen through the eyes of Alice in Wonderland. It is bigger than the 1 L Fontaine Impériale by Guerlain.

Black Afgano is now bottled in a 2 Liter giant incarnation of its own self, with the same burnt oak wood cap, and its new name is Black Afgano Extrait de Parfum 2000 ml...

Continue reading "Nasomatto Black Afgano Extrait: Oversize This {New Flacon} {Luxury Perfume}" »

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan Pocket-Sized + Chergui Miniature GWP {Shopping Tip}


serge-lutens-muscs-koublai-khan.jpgMuscs Koublaï Khan by Serge Lutens is now available in the flat pocket-sized 50 ml spray bottles also called export bottles for a limited time only in the Collection Ephémère (Ephemeral Colleciton).


"Le singulier pluriel

... raffinement, cruauté, complexité des sens dans leurs contradiction, Koublaï Khän, Grand Mongol, Empereur de Chine.
Dans son palais, ce fils du ciel fit élever une colline au sommet de laquelle, se dressait un pavillon de contemplation en laque et jade.
..

Please see after the jump my translation of Lutens's story around this scent inspired by a vision of Gengis Khan...




Continue reading "Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan Pocket-Sized + Chergui Miniature GWP {Shopping Tip}" »

Sean John Announces Launch of Empress on HSN {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}


Sean John did so well for his first time on HSN that his perfume I Am King sold out in the first 15 mn of the show. After a caller asked if he would create an I Am Queen Perfume, P Diddy said that the women's version of I Am King was already being developed and is called Empress with a launch scheduled for next year.
 

December 4, 2009

Annick Le Guerer Si Le Parfum m'etait Conte (2009) {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}


Guerer-si-le-parfum-metait-conte.jpgPerfume author Annick Le Guérer will publish a new book from December 17, 2009 entitled Si le parfum m' était conté (If The Story of Perfume Were Told to Me) at Editions Garde-Temps made in collaboration with l'Osmothèque in Versailles. The foreword was written by the President of the Osmothèque Patricia de Nicolaï

Like other tomes at the publishing house and her previous work Quand le parfum portait remède, the book is transformed into a less abstract object that is usual for print and scented with 12 perfumes from the past....

Continue reading "Annick Le Guerer Si Le Parfum m'etait Conte (2009) {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}" »

Esxence The Scent of Excellence the 2nd Edition: Milano, March 25-28, 2010 {Fragrance News}


la-permanente-milano.jpg

Inaugurated in April 2009, Esxence will convene for its second annual edition in Milan from March 25 to 28, 2010 at  the Museo della Permanente, Via Turati. The event accessible by invitation only is dedicated to the promotion of artistic or niche perfumery. It is "the international appointment for any brand that operates, with passion and conviction, to the magnificent art of the olfactory language."...


Continue reading "Esxence The Scent of Excellence the 2nd Edition: Milano, March 25-28, 2010 {Fragrance News}" »

Van Cleef & Arpels Oriens (2010) {New Perfume}


Oriens-perfume-van-cleef.jpgVan Cleef & Arpels will introduce a new women's perfume in March of 2010 called Oriens, Latin for the Orient. The fruity floral chypre was composed by perfumer Bernard Ellena of Symrise in collaboration with licence holder Inter Parfums SA. The nose is from a family of perfumers which includes brother Jean-Claude Ellena and niece Céline Ellena....

Continue reading "Van Cleef & Arpels Oriens (2010) {New Perfume}" »

December 2009 Archive

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Latest Comments

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

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Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

abdellab mahmoudi on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : bonsoir c'est vrai que c'est un parfum à la fois doux et ...

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