The Buzz

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Helena Rubinstein Wanted

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

Natori by Josie Natori

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter

My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


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September 2006 Archive

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September 12, 2006

Smelling of Red Roses in Snow {Ask Marie-Helene}

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A reader, E., sent me both a very interesting and moving question: "I am looking for a spicy rose scent for fall, heading to heavier rose in winter.  Think headily fragrant red roses in snow." It is an interesting question because it pushes us to think in terms of finding a specific red rose note - possibly cooled down and purified by a snow accord - as opposed to any beautiful rose scent in general.

It is moving because, as I learned later, the reason E. is searching for that scent is that it is linked with the affective memory of the garden of her mother who passed away last summer. I hope you will be able to help her as well. May I add that E. hopes to find that rose scent that will make people say "I just smelled roses".

Here's my answer...


Continue reading "Smelling of Red Roses in Snow {Ask Marie-Helene}" »

September 13, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Magical Moon by Hanae Mori

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Magical Moon is the latest perfume launch by the grande dame of Japanese haute couture, Hanae Mori. It makes its debut eight years after the design brand's previous fragrance creation, Haute Couture. The name of the perfume is said to be inspired by a flower harvesting ritual that takes place according to an ancient lunar calendar. The festival of Tsukimi or moon-viewing and the representation of a rabbit to be found in the moon reveal enduring beliefs in the magical character of the moon in Japan. The Nordstom site tells us that either in reality or in a dream or perhaps in an atmosphere evoking a little bit of both "Magical Moon was blended in a vat lined with blue moonstone. It was bottled under a full moon." It specifies that "Hanae Mori celebrates the rising of Magical Moon, the first fragrance whose creation was ruled by the moon..."

The fragrance offers a superb polished feel. I cannot help but note that just like Soir de Lune by Sisley which took about the same amount of time to bring to completion it seems to have benefited from the attention devoted to it instead of having been rushed due to multiple competing perfume launch projects. It is almost as if time itself allows perfumes to undergo a process of technical refinement as if having been sifted through a conceptual sieve...


Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Magical Moon by Hanae Mori" »

September 14, 2006

Is there an English Version of Luca Turin's Parfums : Le Guide? {Ask Marie-Helene}

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L. wrote:

Where can I obtain an English version of Luca Turin's Perfume Guide?

Dear L.,

To my knowledge Luca Turin has not allowed any English translation of his text to be done. (If any reader knows otherwise, please let us know). He himself attempted to translate excerpts of his guide on his now defunct blog, Perfume Notes, but it looks to me like he may not have had the time to do it himself although, at the same time, he didn't seem quite ready to let anyone else do the translation for him. He considers that an author is not necessarily the best translator of his own work. I am guessing that it might be easier (less tedious) in a way for him to just re-write a new version of it in English or an entirely different guide in English...


Continue reading "Is there an English Version of Luca Turin's Parfums : Le Guide? {Ask Marie-Helene}" »

Previous Posts in Ask Marie-Helene:

Advertising Formats & Rates on The Scented Salamander

Fragrance News: Pro Fumum, A New Line of Italian Perfumes at Luckyscent

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The niche perfumery Luckyscent is now exclusively carrying the Italian Pro Fumum line of fragrances in the US. It includes eight unisex perfumes. According to Luckyscent, "These scents are exquisitely crafted to evoke emotions, memories and a sense of their (the owners) beloved Italy. These rich and layered fragrances are designed to work equally well on men and women, and, amazingly, they really do."...


Continue reading "Fragrance News: Pro Fumum, A New Line of Italian Perfumes at Luckyscent" »

September 15, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci

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Certain perfumes call to imagination the supernatural. These slightly unsettling scents retain an original magical quality about them and subconsciously impart to us the idea that they are the direct descendants of a witche's brew, are secret elixirs whose recipes have been closely guarded for centuries in the muted darkness of a dungeon, or equally, are love potions transmitted through a line of strong females who decided in the course of time to lay at rest their warrior suits to engage instead in the war of seduction. That type of scent, of course, is first handed down from mothers to daughters during a mysterious sylvestrian puberty ritual and marks their symbolic passages into womanhood.

Gucci Eau de Parfum has the irresistible aura of deep seduction. Its color, to me, contributes to its charm. The jus is dark brown, the color of root-beer with shades of greenish black. I personally love dark brown almost black-colored perfumes like Youth-Dew oil or Royal Secret as they seem to have macerated with the most profound secret spices you could imagine. My anticipation when I see those hues is that the perfume will reveal a complex, multi-layered hidden beauty that was captured in rare concentrated form and that the power of the plants was fully harnessed.

The perfume was created in 2002 by nose Daniela Roche based on an idea by designer Tom Ford. Head notes are orris, heliotrope, orange blossom, and vanilla absolute. Heart notes are cistus, cumin, and thym. Base notes are patchouli, vanilla, and deep musk. At the time of its release, Ford declared "I wanted to create a classic fragrance that is very, very Gucci, something that is incredibly feminine and chic". The house of Gucci was confident enough to assert that Gucci Eau de Parfum "has the power to last far beyond the moment, and become a signature scent that is worn for a lifetime". To me it indeed reveals enough substance and character to be contending for a signature scent spot in any  woman's life...

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci" »

September 18, 2006

New Perfume: Rose Absolue by Yves Rocher

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Yves Rocher has released Rose Absolue, the second creation to grace his collection of higher-end perfumes called Secrets D'Essences. The new fragrance is a rose-violet floral and was created by Christine Nagel. Nagel is also the composer of Narciso Rodriguez for Her together with Francis Kurkdjian. The perfume follows Voile D'Ambre, a light woody powdery oriental.

It is described as having a "short structure, a precise script" and ingredients for which “money was no object.” According to Osmoz,  "A cinnamon opening ensures a spicy allure. At the heart, waves of two rose absolutes, Turkish and Moroccan, treated by molecular distillation to isolate the roses’ fresh, dazzling scents. The voluptuous Moroccan rose absolute, ‘bursting with honeyed waxes’ is a creamy treat. Patchouli combined with “a good bit of tonka bean for mellow warmth”, ensures long-lastingness."

Top note is cinnamon. Heart notes are Turkish, Bulgarian, and Moroccan Roses absolutes. Base notes are patchouli and Tonka. 

Source: Osmoz 

New Perfume: Enchanted Anniversary by Alexander McQueen

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Alexander McQueen has introduced a vintage version of his perfume MyQueen. The limited edition fragrance was composed by Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion and is called Enchanted Anniversary.

The perfume showcases a Parma violet warmed up by sweet almond adding a light powdery touch to orange blossom, white musks, together with heliotrope. A sensual patchouli is combined with the raw and enveloping notes of cedar and vetiver. Orris from Florence and vanilla add their subtle carnal qualities to the jus in the base notes.

The 50 ml flacon retails for 60 Euros.

Source: FashionMag.fr 

Fragrance News: Juliette Has A Gun, A New French Fragrance Line

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Romano Ricci of A&R Parfums announced the creation of a new French fragrance brand, Juliette Has A Gun, inspired by a modernized vision of the Shakespearean universe. It was recently presented for competition at the Beyond Beauty Cosmeeting.

Ricci said he wanted to create a new line of fragrances for women who “pursue today, more than ever, an intense desire for freedom”. The brand plans to develop five fragrances which will be distributed internationally.

The perfumes are created by Francis Kurkdjian. The two first fragrances slated to come out next year are Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming. The first one features notes of Italian rose absolute, vanilla and patchouli. The second one is composed with Moroccan rose, wild strawberry and lychee.

They sound, to me, like the right fragrances to wear while re-watching Baz Luhrmann's adaptation of Romeo and Juliet!

Sources: Cosmetics International and Beyond Beauty 

 

Fragrance of the Moment: Gucci edp by Gucci

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I am still wearing Gucci edp and do not tire of its beauty. I keep smelling different aspects of it all along the day. It goes like this: "Hmmm, what's that scrumptious smell?" sniffs wrist "Oh, Gucci edp!" Two hours later I am caught off guard by a beautiful soft aroma lingering on about me. I instinctively look sideways toward the side table near the armchair where I am working to try to see if any flower has been left behind there...

Continue reading "Fragrance of the Moment: Gucci edp by Gucci" »

Winners for the Samples Giveaways:....

OK, Stephanie Morin won the Live Luxe sample and Twibbet - again! - won the Nez à Nez samples. Sorry about the delays! I have Twibbet's address somewhere but please send it back to me in case I don't find it. Stephanie, if you still want the sample, please send me your address. Thanks!

September 2006 Archive

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