The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: November 2006

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November 2006 Archive

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November 11, 2006

Très Russe by Institut Très Bien {New Perfume}

Following the creation of their three upscale historical colognes called Colognes à la Russe, à la Française, et à L'Italienne, Institut Très Bien has now released a new concoction called Très Russe (Very Russian) which is a variation on Cologne à la Russe. It is said to have a sillage that is more amberey and more powdery than that of its predecessor. The perfume was revisited by nose Pierre Bourdon....

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Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

Madonna Nudes 1979 by Mypa

Ruban D'Orange by L'Occitane

Eaux Nacrée, Perlée, Givrée, Boisée, Epicée, & Irisée by Jardin de France

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Absolument Absinthe by Absolument {New Perfume}

Following the success of the reintroduction of the mythical absinthe alcohol in France in 1999 after an eclipse of 84 years with the adapted version by Pascal Rolland called Versinthe, a further step was taken to offer a perfume interpretation of the drink. The partnership between Pascal Rolland and a perfumer has resulted in a fragrance called Absolument Absinthe....

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Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

Très Russe by Institut Très Bien

Madonna Nudes 1979 by Mypa

Ruban D'Orange by L'Occitane

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November 12, 2006

Coeur Joie by Nina Ricci {Ask Marie-Helene}

I'm hoping you can help me learn more about Nina Ricci's Coeur Joie. I think it was very important before 1960.

My friend is trying to find it, or something very much like it, for his wife's birthday. It is her all-time favorite.

Any help you can provide would be very much appreciated.

Thank you,

Neal

Hi Neal,

Thanks for a great question. I understand why your friend's wife considers Coeur Joie to be her all time favorite fragrance. It is a beautiful subtle perfume which combines soft flowers and woods in a rare fashion making it a very feminine scent with a discrete element of masculinity in it thanks to an understated element of dryness. The bottle by Marc Lalique is also exceptional....

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Previous Posts in Ask Marie-Helene:

Blog Correspondence

Is there an English Version of Luca Turin's Parfums : Le Guide?

Advertising Formats & Rates on The Scented Salamander

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November 13, 2006

Caline Night by Grès {New Perfume}

Caline Night is a special limited edition issued just for the winter holidays 2006. It is described as an oriental and is a woodsier and more gourmand take on the original Caline launched in 2005. The perfume was composed by Thierry Wasser of Firmenich.

Top notes are mandarin, apple, plum, fruity notes. Heart notes are patchouli, jasmine, rose. Base notes are praline, sandalwood, vanillic note, musk.

Source: Osmoz

Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

Absolument Absinthe by Absolument

Très Russe by Institut Très Bien

Madonna Nudes 1979 by Mypa

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Collector Edition Midnight Charm by Dior {New Perfume}

Christian Dior is releasing a collector edition perfume for this holiday season called Midnight Charm. It is described as a fruity floral meant to please women who are both romantic and impish....

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Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

Caline Night by Grès

Absolument Absinthe by Absolument

Très Russe by Institut Très Bien

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Ruban D'Orange by L'Occitane {Perfume Short - Express Perfume Review}

This is a pleasant surprise; Ruban D'Orange récolte d'hiver by L'Occitane (Orange Ribbon winter harvest) is better than what I expected and full-bottle worthy. The perfume, with its name suggestive to me also of a treat, a confiserie - I somehow picture a guimauve ribbon - arrives in the midst of our fall days to appeal to our sense of contrast and tempt us with its sunny thirst-quenching notes. This summery aspect is not the end of the story however for it subsides in due course as the perfume also develops a warm amberey and woodsy character that is very much in tune with the season....

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Previous Posts in Perfume Shorts:

Perfume Short & Celebrity Scent: Maria Sharapova by Maria Sharapova

Perfume Short: Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

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November 14, 2006

Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Toilette by Guerlain {Perfume Short - Express Perfume Review}

Exquisite, exquisite is the word to describe Jardins de Bagatelle. I was curious to test yet another one of the Guerlains in an eau de toilette version as they are in general much decried amongst perfumistas. Seeing this one in a package sent from France I decided to give it a go.

Jardins de Bagatelle was created in 1983 by Jean-Paul Guerlain and is described as a floral woodsy fragrance, a particularly apt description for the eau de toilette version which is indeed on the woodsy side. According to Jan Moran in Fabulous Fragrances II, top notes are violet, bergamot, aldehydes, citron. Heart notes are orange blossom, tuberose, gardenia, magnolia, narcissus, orchid, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and muguet. Base notes are musk, cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli; the perfume also most certainly contains orris....

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Previous Posts in Perfume Shorts:

Ruban D'Orange by L'Occitane

Perfume Short & Celebrity Scent: Maria Sharapova by Maria Sharapova

Perfume Short: Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (9)

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November 15, 2006

To Rub or Not to Rub: I Say Spray {Fragrant Reading}

If you ever wondered what is the best way to apply perfume onto your skin please go read my response to Gretchen on the Beauty Hatchery as well as those of other writers....

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Previous Posts in Fragrant Readings:

Fragrant Reading: The Smelling Committee of 1891

Fragrant Readings: Scented Salamander's Articles Featured on Coutorture, Perfume of Life, Are You a Beauty?, & This Next Blog

Fragrant Reading: Article on Nobi Shioya by Chandler Burr

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Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus Eau de Parfum {Perfume Review & Musings}

From Lithuania comes a new eponymous fragrance by designer Juozas Statkevicius, an eau de parfum a priori exotic, mysterious, and as it turns out deeply contemplative and sensual. This perfume so moved me that it made me experience for the first time as provoked by a perfume and in spite of myself a knot of emotion in my throat. I do not understand the effect of the fragrance completely but I will attempt to describe it.

But first some context. Juozas Statkevicius is known as a provocative and innovative designer from Vilnius, Lithuania. He made his fashion debut in Paris in 2002 with a collection of unconventional designs which brought him overnight recognition. There was his shawl with a pillow sewn in it. A model wore arm bracelets representing human bones in black and silver. All on the catwalk wore makeup that included some drops of fake blood dripping on their faces....

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Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

1776 by Elsha

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

Ho Hang by Balenciaga

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November 17, 2006

Déclaration by Cartier {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week}

Déclaration by Cartier was created in 1998 by renowned master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. The French nose also created most recently Terre d'Hermès and Paprika Brasil which show the development of his art in the direction of minimalism. Top notes for Déclaration are bergamot, coriander, mandarin, artemisia, neroli. Heart notes are cardamom, pepper, jasmine, cumin, orris. Base notes are cedar, vetiver, leather, and amber....

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Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus Eau de Parfum

1776 by Elsha

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (16)

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