July 31, 2007

Perfumer Anne Flipo {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Anne Flipo is a perfumer who works for IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). She is the author of a large body of works that covers a wide range of perfumes found in different segments of the market, from niche to design, to pharmacy and supermarket shelves. She has collaborated numerous times with L'Artisan Parfumeur (not all of her AP perfumes are listed here).

Studied at: 

Creations include: L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi (1992), Jacques Fath Yin (1997), L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons (1999), Trussardi Skin (2002).....

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Vogue en Beauté: Exhibition & Book by Georges Vigarello {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Fragrant Reading}

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Vogue Magazine, Sephora, and the BNF (Bibliothèque Nationale de France/French National Library) have partnered up to organize an exhibition called Vogue en Beauté on fashion photography that includes a hundred works by the likes of Man Ray, Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino. It covers the period from 1920 to 2007......

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Floral Pétillant/Sparkling Floral, Floral Sensuel/Sensual Floral, Floral Exotique/Exotic Floral by Filles des Îles {New Fragrances}

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Anne and Alexis Hardouin-Finez the creators of the fragrance and brand, Dinner by Bobo, have launched a new line of perfumes called Filles des Iles (Island Girls), which is inspired this time, not by the bohemian chic trend but by tropical islands.....

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News in Brief: Zac Posen To Launch Women's Perfume {Fragrance News}

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Zac Posen has signed a contract with Selective Beauty to develop a new women's perfume to be launched in the spring of 2009. It will be unveiled early to a happy few during fashion week in New York in September of 2008. (via Weekend.be)

Dior Midnight Poison, Carolina Herrera 212 Splash & 212 Splash Men {New Perfumes} {Shopping Tips}


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The latest Dior creation, Midnight Poison, is making an early debut at Sephora. The bottle this time is a dark royal blue hue with sweeping folds to evoke Cinderella's ball gown as she escapes at midnight. Cinderella is played by actress Eva Green as previously reported.

Perfume is available between $45 and $82 at Sephora.com.......

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Abolument Homme & L'Orgue à Parfum Absolument Parfumeur/Absolument Fragrance Organ {New Perfume} {Fragrant Shopping}

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Absolument, also known under the brand name Parfum d'Interdits, have released a second fragrance creation destined this time to men called Absolument Homme. It comes after Absolument Absinthe in 2006, a green scent based on the mythological wormwood and cannabis....

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July 30, 2007

Murmure by Van Cleef & Arpels (2002) {Perfume Short (Review)}

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Murmure (Murmur) by Van Cleef & Arpels was launched in the fall of 2002, which is slightly surprising given its very suggestive summery and sunny overtones of dewy, juicy Jasmine Sambac, the best recreation of it that we have smelled so far with A La Nuit by Serge Lutens. It immediately transports the perfume wearer to the middle of a noisy Bangkok street on a hot asphalt-y day where sellers of tightly woven fragrant jasmine garlands shout their wares to car drivers shut up in air-conditioned cars, who will maybe roll down their windows to buy and place the exquisitely scented blooms punctuated with red or yellow flowers on their rear-view mirror......

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Perfumer & Artistic Director François Demachy {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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François Demachy was born in 1949 in Grasse. He is both a perfumer and a "super artistic director" for olfactory development at LVMH ( Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) since 2006, which oversees brands like Guerlain, Dior, Kenzo, Givenchy, Acqua di Parma, Loewe, Pucci, Fendi. Before that he worked for 29 years at Chanel where he created most of the Chanel fragrance successes with Jacques Polge, although he is less well known to the public than his colleague This perception or lack thereof has started to change since his appointment at LVMH.

Studied at: Ecole de Parfumerie de la Société Charabot

Mentor: perfumer Henri Robert, author of Chanel no 19......

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Ess Bouquet by The Crown Perfumery Co. {Perfume Review & Musings}

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ESS Bouquet by The Crown Perfumery Co., as one of the oldest English fragrances to exist, is one of those perfumes steeped in history and antique exotic tastes that require further investigation and elucidation to fully appreciate. First we have to address the meaning of its name, which sounds a bit puzzling to the modern ear: “Ess Bouquet” we learn from Septimus Piesse writing in 1857 is but the contraction of the word “essence of bouquet”. The original recipe for the scent, by an anonymous London perfumer, is recorded as early as 1711 and by the time Piesse writes his The Art of Perfumery in the mid-19th century this original date has been forgotten and the much imitated perfume formula is attributed to, not its rightful creators whoever these may be, but rather to its famous developers, Bayley and Co., established 1739. Septimus Piesse thus mistakenly attributes the paternity of Ess Bouquet to its most celebrated makers at the time,

 “The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, who are, in truth, the original makers.”.......
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July 29, 2007

Perfumer Daniela (Roche) Andrier {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Perfumer Daniela Andrier works for Givaudan and is, incidentally, the wife of its CEO, Gilles Andrier. She is also known under the names Daniela Roche and Daniela Roche-Andrier.

Studied at: Ecole de Parfumerie Givaudan 

Creations include: La Perla Io by La Perla (1995), Kenzo Le Monde (1997), Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci (2002), Attraction by Lancôme (2003) (with Christian Biecher) (Fifi awards France & Europe).....

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July 28, 2007

Etat Libre d'Orange Charogne, Delicious Closet Queen, New Cristiano Fissore Rapsodia in Blu {Shopping Tips}

The two latest perfume creations by Etat Libre d'Orange, Delicious Closet Queen and Charogne, are now available at First in Fragrance, together with their range of candles. Samples are available for 3 Euros.

A new perfume by Cristiano Fissore called Rapsodia in Blu is also available.

Secrets D'Essences Iris Noir by Yves Rocher {New Perfume} Galore of Iris Perfumes {Trend Alert}

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Yves Rocher have announced that the third Secrets D'Essences after Voile D'Ambre and Rose Absolue will be dedicated to the supremely elegant iris flower with a fragrance called Iris Noir (Black Iris). Lately, several significant launches have honored the bloom or are about to, pointing to an iris comeback as if every perfumer wanted to try their hands at an iris fragrance (often associated with a fashionable and noticeable note of fruity and musky ambrette seed): Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile, Chanel no 18, more discreetly in the heart of Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel, also Prada Infusion d'Iris, Guerlain Iris Ganache, and the upcoming L'Occitane Iris, Parfum d'Empire Equistrius and L'Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida 2007. Black flowers are also very in with the trend having been particularly well exemplified by Tom Ford fragrances, starting with Black Orchid......

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July 27, 2007

New Line of Eau De Vie Fragrances {New Perfumes}

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Take notice, a new cohort of comfort perfumes has arrived in town. Eau De Vie is a new line of fragrances that proposes scents based on gourmand, near-edible notes. The collection, carried exclusively by Sephora, comprises sinfully rich Whipped Cream, Pina Colada, Almond, Capuccino With Cream, Chocolate And Mint, Vanilla Ice Cream, and Coconut. The packaging is simple, minimalist, slightly niche and edgy, like simpler Keiko Mecheris. They are priced to fly off the shelves, $18 for a 1.7 oz spray bottle of eau de toilette. You are encouraged to layer them, but not to lick them.

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Peach, Fleurs des Caraïbes, Vanille Extrême Discontinued + Deals {Shopping Tip} {Fragrance News}

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Comptoir Sud Pacifique is discontinuing a series of scents: Vanille Peach, Fleurs des Caraïbes, and Vanille Extrême. Vanille Peach is one of our favorites from their line (with Amour de Cacao), so we regret to see this happening.......

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Viaggi e Profumi by Luigi Cristiano & Gianni de Martino {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrant Shopping}

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Duo of authors Luigi Cristiano and Gianni De Martino have written a book entitled Viaggi e Profumi (Urra, 2007) (Travels and Perfumes). It is a descriptive and sensualist travelogue through space and even time in quest of iconic natural essences produced in specific world-renowned locales. Gianni De Martino is a writer and journalist from Milan who has written another book about the fifth sense entitled Odori: entrate in contato con il quinto senso......

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July 26, 2007

New Marc Jacobs Daisy Website {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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Marc Jacobs, as part of their advertising campaign to promote their upcoming new fragrance called Daisy, have set up a website with playful interactive tools. The perfume will debut in August and is aimed at young women.....

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Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet with Notes on Fracas & Bandit {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne}

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Fracas for Men by Robert Piguet is nominally only linked to Fracas (for women), as it does not attempt to be a masculine rendition of the famous classic tuberose fragrance created by Germaine Cellier in 1948. We do not know when exactly and by whom it was composed, although it is certainly a late creation that was probably destined for the American market. It presents itself as a spin-off, but only for commercial reasons and to seemingly participate in a brand recognition effort. The flacon is quite basic and reveals the fact that the launch was not a prestigious one.

The scent is a floral fougère, apparently almost out of fortuitous coincidence sharing notes of orange blossom, orris, sandalwood, and musk with the feminine Fracas. If there is any tuberose in it, it would solely contribute to a soft floral core dominated by the orange blossom without being made to stand out. The coolness of lavender within the fougère accord is truly the most dominant floral note.........

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July 25, 2007

Strip by Agent Provocateur {New Perfume}

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Once more, a perfume by Agent Provocateur with a naughty wink and title. Strip is the latest launch by the UK-based brand known for its sexy lingerie lines and commitment to a porno-chic credo.....

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July 24, 2007

L'Oréal Found Guilty of Racism, Kate Winslet & Clive Owen Under Pressure to Cancel Contracts with Cosmetics Giant {The 5th Sense in the News}

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This is a belated report on a racism law-suit brought against l'Oréal's Garnier label by SOS Racisme to establish that they had practiced systematic racial discrimination when recruiting personnel. Garnier was recognized guilty by a French court through a historic ruling.....

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Trésor Concreta, Trésor Elixir by Lancôme {New Perfume}

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Lancôme has launched a variation on the modern classic Trésor originally created by Sophia Grojsman, which is called Trésor Elixir. It is described as being both sweeter and more full-bodied with woodsy accents that are almost leather-like, together with a balmier trail (honey rose, vanilla absolute, heliotrope, sandalwood)......

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Requiem for Theresa Duncan of The Wit of The Staircase {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Artist and Film-maker Theresa Duncan was well-known within the perfume blogosphere as the author of The Wit of The Staircase where she wrote on a range of cultural topics, including perfumes.The New York Times reports that Theresa Duncan committed suicide on July 10th at the age of 40. Her long-time boyfriend artist Jeremy Blake is reported to be missing since July 17th........

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July 23, 2007

DVD of Perfume - The Story of a Murderer (2007) Out July 24th 2007 + Giveaway {Fragrant Shopping}

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The DVD of Perfume, The Story of a Murderer is coming out tomorrow, July 24th 2007. We will soon review the DVD(s) and especially the Collector Edition from Europe, which contains a number of interesting, nay, fascinating featurettes. Paramount is sending us some copies of the US edition, which contains one behind-the-scenes featurette and we will organize a giveaway of these at the end of our review of the DVD......

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Lécythiophile or Lécythomyrophile {Perfume Words}

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A lécythiophile (masc.) or less commonly, lécythomyrophile, is a word employed in French and English (without the accent) to designate a miniature perfume bottle collector.

"Lécythiophile" literally means the friend of the lécythe (masc.) from ancient Greek lekythos, which used to refer to a vase containing oil or perfume destined to bodycare during the Greek antiquity.......

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New Wardrobe of Perfumes: Scent Systems: Rose, Jasmine, Wild Violet, Tuberose, Oeillet {New Fragrances}

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Scent Systems is a UK-based perfume brand that was founded in 2003 by Hiram Green. He, together with perfumer George Dodd, have now created what they like to term their first ready-to-wear wardrobe of scents, which is wholly dedicated to a floral theme. The Floral Collection comprises Rose, Jasmine, Wild Violet, Tuberose, and Oeillet (Carnation).....

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Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine