Perfumer Mark Buxton is relaunching his eponymous perfume brand under new auspices, i.e., read new management and financing. Initially created in 2008, then purchased by a Russian investor, Buxton recently reclaimed his name for his label "Mark Buxton Perfumes".
The new collection has been re-packaged in more sophisticated bottles than in the past, designed with an Art Deco and industrial style flair. Two perfumes from the original collection are recognizable under the names "Wood and Absinth" and "Black Angel", while new scents appear: Sexual Healing, Sleeping with Ghosts, Devil in Disguise...
In an interview given to L'Entreprise - L'Express, the Paris-based perfumer who is well-known for his seminal work for Comme des Garçons, helps us understand what the term "niche" or "artisanal" perfumery means today. He himseff still uses a perfumer's orgue and writes down formulae on paper, the old-fashioned way because,
"For the last decade, the majority of juices have been composed on a computer; you do not "go up" to the lab anymore and you work on 15 to 20 projects at the same time!"
From the French,
" Depuis une dizaine d'années, la majorité des jus sont composés sur ordinateur, on ne " monte " même plus au labo et on travaille sur 15 à 20 projets en même temps ! "
It is difficult to put the denomination of "art" on an activity which resembles the activity on a line of industrial production so much. It is interesting therefore that while Buxton puts emphasis on tradition and artistry, his packaging retains something of the memory of an industry-led and performance-led universe. It's a resistance against the modern times but also a full acceptance of some of that age's codes, like simpler lines, simpler, less symphonic compositions.
In related news, a new concept store carrying Mark Buxton Perfumes called Nose is about to open rue Bachaumont in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris at the end of June 2012.