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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses Archive

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December 16, 2009

Creed Madison Boutique Opens & Offers Limited-Edition Duke of Windsor Perfume {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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As announced earlier, Creed now has a boutique on Madison Avenue. It opened to the public today.

Among its current forty scent offerings, one can note the presence of a rare limited-edition of Creed Windsor, a fragrance which was custom-ordered by then King Edward VIII and which is available in limited supply. The re-edition of the perfume dating from 1936 coincides with the 250th anniversary of the house.

According to the press release,

"The Duke ordered the scent from CREED when he was King Edward VIII of England, a position he quit to marry American divorcee Wallis Simpson.  Now CREED clients in the U.S. have the rare chance to experience this fragrance that is part of one of the most dramatic and romantic chapters in British and American history."...

Continue reading "Creed Madison Boutique Opens & Offers Limited-Edition Duke of Windsor Perfume {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

December 8, 2009

Osmotheque Conference on Rigaud The Perfumer-Turned-Candle-Maker, Dec 15, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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The Osmothèque is organizing a conference on Rigaud the 19th century perfumer est. 1852 famous for Eau de Kananga (1869) and Un Air Embaumé (1914). They are now mostly known for their candles and the iconic Cyprès candle in particular with its distinctive aroma favored by Jackie Kennedy for the White House.

If you are visiting Paris, Karima Okichou will be giving a talk on Rigaud, l'art du parfum d'ambiance: quand la lumière devint parfum (Rigaud, the art of home fragrance:  when light turned into perfume.)...

Continue reading "Osmotheque Conference on Rigaud The Perfumer-Turned-Candle-Maker, Dec 15, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

November 13, 2009

Chanel Parfum Artisan Event at Selfridges Nov 26-28, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}



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If you are in London sometime between November 26 and 28, 2009 and want to take a peek into a behind-the-scenes of Chanel the perfume brand, you can direct your steps to Selfridges to attend their Chanel Parfum Artisan Event. This event allows you to experience how Chanel artisans carry on what is called in French, baudruchage.

Baudruchage is the action of tightly sealing a perfume bottle, traditionally with a transparent piece of beef intestine dipped into a bowl of water to make it more supple. That's a drop of old-world charm for you. It roughly looks like film wrap, only it is animal in origin. Then a gold thread would be added.This treatment is reserved for the extrait concentration, the most luxurious form of perfume.

For Chanel, baudruchage now only involves using black wax and thread.

Chanel Fragrance Boutique, Ground Floor, Oxford Street

More info at Selfridges

Editions de Parfums Opens in Manhattan {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


frederic-malle-boutique.jpg

Two years ago, an informed rumor surfaced on the internet via the fashionweekdaily.com announcing that Frederic Malle of Editions de Parfums was hunting for a store in New York City. The new boutique is now open. It is  "...a 900-square-foot space located at 898 Madison Avenue at 72nd Street, in Manhattan."

Malle reportedly had had his eye on the building since his days as an arts student at New York City University, with an impression filed away under a tag saying something like "great building!"...


Continue reading "Editions de Parfums Opens in Manhattan {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} " »

October 21, 2009

Chocolate Fashion Exhibit at the Salon du Chocolat 2009 in Paris - Part 2: Look but Don't Touch {Scented Paths & Fragrant Adresses} {Fashion Notes}


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Here is part 2 of the gallery of photos showcasing the chocolate dresses that were created for the Salon du Chocolat 2009 in Paris.

I have followed the organization of the exhibition spread over 3 separate podiums.

Here was Group 1

Group 2 today...

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Nestlé France SA, Coralie Robert. Inspired by Nutcracker, Tchaikovski

Continue reading "Chocolate Fashion Exhibit at the Salon du Chocolat 2009 in Paris - Part 2: Look but Don't Touch {Scented Paths & Fragrant Adresses} {Fashion Notes}" »

October 20, 2009

Chocolate Fashion Exhibition at the Salon du Chocolat 2009 in Paris - Part 1: Look but Don't Touch {Scented Paths & Fragrant Adresses} {Fashion Notes}


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The preamble. What you saw when you entered the salon (among other things). A hostess from the brand Côte d'Or was distributing samples. I didn't try those because they are easy to find in supermarkets. But as you can see, the mood was welcoming.

Parisians don't just eat their chocolate in silence, they talk about it and would stand there with their chocolate in the mouth then in the air exchanging remarks and looking like they were tasting with their brains, which is actually what takes place.



Last week Paris held its annual Salon du Chocolat, a mega fair for chocolate lovers and professionals founded by Sylvie Douce and François Jeantet. The 2009 vintage was its 15th edition. Being a global affair, it will soon take place in New York city as the Chocolate Show on October 30 - November 1, 2009. Then Shanghai, Tokyo, Moscow and Madrid will follow.

One of the highlights of this annual cacao folly (featuring also the complementary vanilla and other treats) is the lineup of fashion creations made out of chocolate. This year the central theme of inspiration was Opera. There were daily catwalk shows. It is a way to display local craftsmanship and attract crowds who are always sensitive to spectacular entries.

There were oohs and aahs and the occasional biting comment from the ever demanding Parisians who could not taste the chocolate-turned-into-dresses but could nevertheless try to ascertain the level of difficulty of the different designs. A funny comment came from someone who admired a dress as being the real deal and then concluded that some of the other creators by comparison were just crooks who wanted to make you believe that they had done anything special.

Today I am listing group 1 of the chocolate-y fashion garments. There will be two more, the way they were organized at the show.

I will also be posting more pictures in an upcoming post to show some of the latest chocolate trends at the Salon and there will be giveaways of goodies that I hand-picked, courtesy of TSS for people living in northern climes because otherwise you will end up with a pool of chocolate and flower petals...


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It was hard to tell whether the material had been dipped in chocolate or whether it was all chocolate. Chocolats Pralus, Marithé + François Girbaud.

Continue reading "Chocolate Fashion Exhibition at the Salon du Chocolat 2009 in Paris - Part 1: Look but Don't Touch {Scented Paths & Fragrant Adresses} {Fashion Notes}" »

October 7, 2009

Conference on Worth, Un Homme de Mode, Un Homme de Parfums, Oct 13, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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A Worth coat, 1889 from "The Opulent Era-Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat"
by Elizabeth Ann Coleman


For people happening to be in Paris on October 13, 2009 there will be a conference in French organized by the Osmothèque on legendary couturier Charles Frederick Worth entitled "Worth, a Man of Fashion, a Man of Perfumes" at the Galerie de Nicolaï.

Here's the invitation in French,

"Notre prochaine conférence aura lieu le Mardi 13 Octobre 2009 à 18h30 sur le thème:

« Worth, un homme de mode, un monde de parfums »
Par Chantal Trubert - Tollu...

Continue reading "Conference on Worth, Un Homme de Mode, Un Homme de Parfums, Oct 13, 2009 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} " »

September 22, 2009

New Libertine Parfumerie in Brisbane, Australia {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Fragrance News}



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Australian niche perfumery Libertine Parfumerie have opened their second store in Brisbane. The boutique is co-directed by Nick Smart, Jason Carlton and Joel Morehu-Barlow whose goal it is to bring exclusive niche perfumery to their country. The trio also heads a niche distribution company named Agence de Parfum. Nick Smart said,

"Libertine Parfumerie, coupled with agence de parfum, are dedicated to filling a void for niche perfume houses in the Australian market. "

"Some of the most coveted fragrances in the world are created by niche perfumeries and until now, Australians have had only limited if any access to such high-end brands.
 
"With the exception of a handful of stores, niche perfumery has not been well represented in Australia and we felt it was time to overcome this and give Australians the opportunity to learn about some of the rarer, prestige fragrances on the market," he said...

Continue reading "New Libertine Parfumerie in Brisbane, Australia {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Fragrance News}" »

September 21, 2009

Creed Opens Store in New York City Right on Time for the Holidays 2009 {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}



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NEW YORK, September 21, 2009 -- The Paris-based CREED royal perfume house has signed a lease to open a 400 square foot boutique in the landmark building at 794 Madison Avenue on the northwest corner of 67th Street in New York City in time to serve its American clientele for the 2009 holiday season.  It will be CREED's only stand-alone store in America.  Among the more than 40 CREED fragrances and other goods the store will offer men and women will be Windsor, the fragrance CREED made for the Duke of Windsor in 1936...

Continue reading "Creed Opens Store in New York City Right on Time for the Holidays 2009 {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

July 31, 2009

Jean Patou's Website: Worthy Visit {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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Jean Patou offers the opportunity for one of the nicest perfume promenades to be taken on the internet. Their website takes a historic perspective on the itinerary of the brand. The design is trailed with flowers on which you click to access more information. A host of historic pictures gives flesh to a name that has graced the bottles of Joy, 1000, Sira des Indes, Normandie, Vacances and so many more, some which are utterly forgotten like the cocktail range: Cocktail Dry, Cocktail Sweet, Cocktail Bitter Sweet. They were modern enough to be the initiators of the early sun tan oil and "beach fragrance" Huile de Chaldée (1927). The house perfumers are honored with mentions and an in-house genealogy.

July 24, 2009

Perfume Shopping in Beijing: Eiphur Perfume Hutte {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


beijing_china_perfume.jpgEiphur Perfume Hutte is apparently a perfumery that sells smell-alikes in Beijing, China. In a variation of the decanting perfume business, here the fragrances are sold by the milliliter from topsy-turvy bottles at a bar. You can purchase vials or perfume bottles in the store too. The pottery fragrance bottles are completely wild. The shopper appreciated finding scents by CK and Hugo Boss for a fraction of the going prices...

Continue reading "Perfume Shopping in Beijing: Eiphur Perfume Hutte {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

July 11, 2009

Du Bousille au Musee Sylvie Guerlain: Presentation of New 2011 Guerlain Museum June 27 - September 6, 2009 {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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A new Guerlain museum is in the making. To begin to discover it, there is an exhibition which should delight Guerlain collectors and followers which opened on June 27, 2009 in the city of Eu near Dieppe in the Normandy region called "Du Bousillé...au musée Sylvie Guerlain". It will run until September 6, 2009.

The goal of this exhibition is to reveal to the public both the works of local glassmakers who would use leftovers from molten glass to practice during their breaks and to offer a first look at the reportedly fabulous Guerlain collection of Sylvie Guerlain a descendant of the family of perfumers. The link to glass-making is more generally meaningful also because it is in this region between Rouen and Amiens  in the vallée de la Bresle that is located La Glass Vallée (Glass Valley), the world leader in the production of luxury flacons. The site covers 80% of the global production of fragrance bottles in the sector of luxury...

Futur-musee-Sylvie-Guerlain.jpg 
The place for the temporary Guerlain exhibit

Continue reading "Du Bousille au Musee Sylvie Guerlain: Presentation of New 2011 Guerlain Museum June 27 - September 6, 2009 {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

June 4, 2009

La Rose Dans Tous Ses Etats by Jean Kerleo June 6th 2009 at the Osmotheque {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


Blue-roses.jpgPerfumer Jean Kerléo will offer a lecture entitled "La rose dans tous ses états" (The Rose in All its States) on June 6th, 2009 from 2:30 pm to 5 pm at the Osmothèque in Versailles. The topic is the rose material, the varietals used in perfumery (from Morocco, Grasse, Bulgaria...), the processes of extraction, its fine-fragrance incarnations etc. The conference includes practical smelling sessions.

Le 6 juin 2009, le parfumeur Jean Kerléo, auteur de 1000 de Patou, Sublime et fondateur de l'Osmothèque, donnera une conférence intitulée "La rose dans tous ses états"...

Continue reading "La Rose Dans Tous Ses Etats by Jean Kerleo June 6th 2009 at the Osmotheque {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

Parfums Regine's Zoa Night Perfume (2009) - Regine Meetup at Colette on June 13th, 2009 {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


zoa-Night-perfume-Regine.jpgSinger, night-club franchise owner and self-described creator of the modern disco night scene Régine has launched a new fragrance twenty years after her debut perfume which bore the name Regine's. The new scent is titled Zoa after a song on her repertoire from 1966 and subtitled Night Perfume...

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Continue reading "Parfums Regine's Zoa Night Perfume (2009) - Regine Meetup at Colette on June 13th, 2009 {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

June 3, 2009

Laurent Assoulen at the Châtelet Theater in Paris, June 8, 2009: Olfactory Music Concert {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses - Perfume & Art}


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Jazz composer Laurent Assoulen is giving a concert at the Théâtre du Châtelet on June 8, 2009 at 9 pm which is at once a musical event and an olfactory one. Perfumer Guillaume Flavigny (Balmain Ambre Gris, La Môme, Dali Little Kiss, Charriol...) of Givaudan is the nose behind the fragrance compositions that establish a system of Baudelairean correspondences with the music. Rimbaud's synesthetic poetry is evoked as well.

You can book a ticket here.

Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses Archive

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