Monthly Archives from March 2006

May 2009 Archive

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May 19, 2009

Cacharel Scarlett (2009) {New Perfume}


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Cacharel will launch a new women's perfume from mid-July 2009 called Scarlett in reference to an archetypal feminine heroine. The brand wishes to go back to the roots of what made it successful in the 1970s thanks to Anaïs Anaïs, an iconic perfume of that decade. The motto is "romantic, fresh, and daring."

The perfume was composed by triumvirate of noses from Firmenich Honorine Blanc (Usher She; Polo Explorer; Amber Ylang Ylang...), Alberto Morillas, and Olivier Cresp (Angel; Light Blue; Kenzo Jungle pour Homme; Nina Ricci; Bond Girl 007...)....

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Chantal Thomass Osez-Moi! (2009): Scent of a Boudoir {New Perfume} {Fragrance Advert}


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Lingerie mistress Chantal Thomass has introduced a new women's perfume cheekily called Osez-Moi! (something like "dare try me!"). The designer says that it is "a very feminine fragrance in line with my lingerie: precious details and noble materials with a touch of the unexpected." Thomass was inspired by the atmosphere of a boudoir and admittedly by what is to me in fact a fragrance genre, the boudoir perfume (my characterization). Usually this involves a powdery note and the fragrance is made to feel intimate and sensual evoking the ritual of coquettry and beauty of a woman.

The copy also adds that Osez-Moi is a composition that "...plays with contrasts: vintage and modern; romantic and avant-garde; technical and poetic."...

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Creed Acqua Fiorentina (2009): A Promise of Harmony {New Perfume}


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This spring Creed is launching a new perfume in its Millésime collection called Acqua Fiorentina.  The scent is said to be built around the idea of " a promise of harmony."

The perfume is co-signed by father and son parfumeurs Olivier and Erwin Creed. It was inspired by the evocation of a fruit orchard at dawn in July in Tuscany; the orchard sits atop a hill leaning against the walls of a thousand year old village.

"In this second, the air seems bathed by a light from the Renaissance, iridescent, condusive to harmony. The world is smiling upon you as if suffused with a newly found beauty....

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May 20, 2009

Christophe Laudamiel Co-Signs Scent Opera at the Guggenheim, May 31-June 1 2009 {The 5th Sense in the News}


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Aspen Green Persian by Dale Chihuly


Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, who has left major fragrance company IFF to become an independent consultant and dedicate his time to the pursuit of fragrance as art is co-signing a sound-and-smell opus called a "scent opera" and entitled Green Aria. The event will take place at the Guggenheim on May 31 and June 1 2009. The Wall Street Journal reports about the background story, but before here is a definition of what a "scent opera" is and how it works,

"The 'ScentOpera' is a new dramatic form that opens the possibilities of extending the Wagnerian vision and is a precursor to the complete multi-sensory art form integrating all of the senses with the arts, thereby creating the complete 'works' or 'opera'. A 'ScentOpera' is principally limited to only two senses - smell and hearing. The first ScentOpera, Green Aria, is performed in a setting in which the audience is invited to leave the audiovisual world behind and enter a new medium, arom-audio. Volume, depth, temperature, color, sensation and feeling are interleaved in an emergent form of storytelling delivered through scent and music."...

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May 21, 2009

Lush Vanillary (2009): King Kong Passion {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}


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A King Kong poster from 1933, via All Posters


Vanillary by Lush was originally inspired by "the extraordinary desserts at Heston Blumental's amazing restaurant, The Fat Duck at Bray", a multi award-winning temple of cutting-edge molecular cuisine. The perfume is composed of vanilla absolute, jasmine absolute and tonka absolute and was created by in-house perfumer Simon Constantine. Its first incarnation was a bath product called Vanilla Fountain Ballistic.  It is now available as a spray perfume as well as a solid one. This is a review of the liquid Vanillary.

Vanillary.jpgThe fragrance can be seen as a dark floral vanilla scent with a salty edge. The blend opens on a salt-brushed, indolic and brown-toned accord of vanilla with a sweet wood-polish nuance found in lily. Soon an undercurrent of lush, rich, drunk-like, resinous and fruity jasmine with a dash of green surfaces. There are hints of almondy heliotropine.

What I appreciate most perhaps about the meeting of flower and vanilla in this scent is how the junction is made through a fresh green sappy bridge, as if made of oozing vine...

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May 22, 2009

Idole d'Armani (2009): To Conquer or Not The US Feminine Market {New Fragrance}


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Added: Review of Idole d'Armani

Armani is mostly interested in reaching out to the feminine portion of the global and American fragrance market in particular with their upcoming September opus called Idole and they really wished women were not so fickle. This is what transpires from an article in today's Women's Wear Daily where founder Giorgio Armani laments the difficulty of keeping women in the bosom of the brand. Men, that's another story, and Armani confesses to having a better grasp on the male psyche because he is a man himself after all and men are more faithful in their perfume tastes.

Interesting conceptions about gender and cultural preferences emerge,

"It's much more difficult," he said. "Women are very unfaithful -- psychologically speaking. Maybe it's because I'm a man and I know what men like. [They] like fragrances that [make them] feel like a man. Now there is too much promiscuity between a female and a male fragrance."

And,

"American women like a certain kind of fragrance, stronger and very personal," he observed. "I sometimes say it's a little bit like an elevator fragrance. When a woman gets onto an elevator, you can smell this fragrance. It's a bit too much."...

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Nicole Miller Frenzy (2009): Delicious {New Fragrance}


nicole_mille-Frenzy-B.jpgDesigner Nicole Miller wanted to develop a perfume with Parlux that would be "delicious" yet also cover the range of "energy and emotion that are constants in the life of the woman who wears Nicole Miller." The project was entrusted to perfumer Caroline Sabas of Givaudan who designed a "modern chypre".

"I don't like most perfumes," said the designer from her Seventh Avenue showroom. "I find them too florally or too old. My clothes don't age people so I wanted that same kind of fragrance that was young and modern."

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Paris Hilton Siren Teaser 3: See Paris's Siren Tail in New Advert {Perfume Adverts} {Celebrity Fragrance}

Paris-Hilton-Cannes-2009-B.jpgParis Hilton and Doug Reinhardt at the Cannes Festival on May 21, 2009. She is dressed a bit siren-like here but the ad is different.

Fun, fun, fun. I received the press kit for the upcoming Paris Hilton Siren which will debut in June-July 09 and I can offer The Scented Salamander's readers the first sneak peek at the new advert. So here is teaser #3:...

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May 23, 2009

Les Fleurs du Guildo & Jicky by Guerlain: An Early, 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents & a Reexamination of Jicky's Gender & Fresh Factor {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}

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Ruins of Le Guildo by Gwen


So called marine scents have known an explosion of interest that came from the top in the 1990s, with the use of molecules such as Helional and especially Calone (discovered in 1966 by Pfizer), but that does not mean that in previous eras the motif of the sea was left blank and pushed outside of the history of perfumery. Even before Calone came into existence - pardon us for being so didactic - people had noses, enjoyed promenades by the sea, or breathing the salubrious coastal air. If a perfumer happened to be among the crowd of strollers or dreamers, then an impression for a perfume might be born.

Common sense can make us see retrospectively that it would be exaggerated a view to think that perfumes have not incorporated the experience of the seaside in one way or another and that perfumers never contributed this experience to perfumery. In fact, going further back in time, one could point out that the famous oakmoss found on the island of Chypre is a very early reference to the aromatic palette that can be experienced by the ocean, if for nothing else than sensations of dried heat and salty vegetal nuances.

One example of an early 19th century seaside motif which I have discovered is Les Fleurs du Guildo by Guerlain, which is a fascinating illustration of an early, avowed attempt at capturing the quality of the olfactory atmosphere in the region of Brittany, and in particular in the specific context of its moors expanding around the ruins of the castle of Le Guildo as it was advertised at the time.

By selecting this locale alone, Guerlain is expressing an interest for an earth-and-sea contrast. As its name indicate, this perfume wanted to distill the scent of flowers growing on the coast, the so-called Côte d'Armor....

Continue reading "Les Fleurs du Guildo & Jicky by Guerlain: An Early, 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents & a Reexamination of Jicky's Gender & Fresh Factor {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}" »

May 24, 2009

Gocce di Byron Saladero, Tramonti, Volastra, Guvano, Punta Mesco (2009) {New Fragrances - New Line}


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There is a new confidential niche perfume line that has appeared in Italy called Gocce di Byron (Drops of Byron). The collection is generally inspired by the concept of an olfactory voyage taking precedence over the more habitual first visual sensations on a trip and the idea that perfumes can help us find our own territory and sense of place.

More particularly, Gocce di Byron seeks to embark you on a local olfactory voyage thanks to an itinerary delineated by verses of the poet Byron and the five abstract painterly squares that accompany the 5 perfumes, making the set up resemble an installation.... 

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May 25, 2009

When Perfume Becomes Political: The Yukos Fragrance Project {The 5th Sense in the News}


Yukos-perfume.jpgA Russian businessman wants to put some glamor back into the Yukos name which has become synonymous with financial scandal. What better idea but to establish it as a perfume trademark and use the anticipated perfume as a political vote bulletin in support of ex-billionnaire Mikhail Khodorkovsky? "Only in Russia", one might say...

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Chopard Cascade (2009) Launched at the Cannes Festival {New Perfume}


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Geneva-based jewelry house Chopard is a privileged partner of the prestigious Cannes film festival as they are the designers of the Golden Palm since 1998.

To fete the launch of their new feminine fragrance Cascade named after one of their jewelry items from the Red Carpet High Jewelry collection specially designed on the occasion of the 62nd Cannes Festival, the house went to party on the Croisette....

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May 26, 2009

Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire (2009) {New Perfumes - New Line}


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Jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels is going to inaugurate a new, higher-end fragrance library from September 2009 called the Collection Extraordinaire which is also characterized as Haute Parfumerie in reference to Haute Couture.

Like other perfume brands' upper-tiered niche lines such as Guerlain L'Art et la Matière, Les Parisiennes or Armani Privé or Prada exclusives or Hermès Hermessences and soon the upcoming Cartier Les Heures du Parfum, it is an exploration of perfume as supposedly a more authentic item of luxury and creative research....

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Recession in Russia Seen in Positive Light for the Future of Perfumery {Fragrance News}


A study conducted in Russia by consulting agency L'Agence de Lux concludes on an optimistic note regarding the effect of the recession on perfume-consuming behavior. Yep, there is an upside. It is all bound to encourage loyalty towards old brands and encourage people to be pickier thereby favoring a push towards higher quality in the end, according to the thinking heads at L'Agence de Lux....

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Pepper & Tanky Peaches n' Cream, Vanilla Woof, Big Dawg, Puppy Love (2009) {New Perfumes}


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Here's a new fun line of perfumes to scent your dog. The brand Pepper and Tanky offers a collection of four perfumes for your furry friend bottled in fun girly packaging. There is even a chypre perfume for discerning canines...


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May 2009 Archive

Page 4 of 6  •  1 2 3 4 5 6

Latest Comments

Fin O'Suilleabhain on Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes} : Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...

Thalestris Dupont on Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review} : Lovely perfume! Reminds me of the spring 2011 when I was wearing ...

Karen Lindsey on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : I just found this site and I so need to find someone ...

Regina on Happy New Year 2012! : Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations?

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kelvin neo on Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances* : Hi good day, Can i know where can purchase or order Pink ...

Alan on A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading} : Hell-scent candle, lol.

Gina on Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes} : I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ...

Tammy on Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List} : Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ...

Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...

Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...

evageli karounzou on Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News} : at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...

Kay on Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam : This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ...

Maddy on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...

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