Monthly Archives from March 2006

July 2009 Archive

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July 1, 2009



Halston Woman & Halston Man (2009): Perfume Serves as Inspiration for Marios Schwab's Pure Metallic {New Fragrances} {Fashion Notes}


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The Halston brand have revived their perfume classics under the aegis of Elizabeth Arden. The original Halston for Women issued in 1975 and Halston Z-14 (1976) will be introduced after having undergone a modern adaptation work by perfumer Carlos Benaïm of IFF who collaborated with Bernard Chant on the original feminine scent....

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Yves Rocher So Elixir (2009): The Essence of Femininity {New Perfume}


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Yves Rocher is preparing for its next major feminine launch called So Elixir. The woody-floral perfume is based on a white floral accord and was created with 6 hands by perfumers Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich. The advertising for the fragrance is uncharacteristically seductive for the brand, which seems to want combine here the allure of natural ingredients with a sophisticated imagery.

Let me state from the outset how I love the fact that the Yves Rocher press release details the contributions of each perfumer. This is my idea of where perfumery ought to be headed in the future whereby people discuss the creative process in a non-infantilizing manner and credits are rolled. In this example, it sounds the way screenplay writers detail their contributions....

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July 2, 2009

Sahlini Femininde (2009) {New Perfume}


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Perfume brand Sahlini founded in 2006 is continuing to expand its portfolio. After the initial La Femme and L'Homme followed by La Femme en Noir and L'Homme en Noir which were collector versions of the originals with a slightly tweaked formula of more intense jasmine and patchouli notes for the women's scent, the latest fragrance is called Fémininde...

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Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile (2009) {New Perfume}


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Perfume-review-logo-3-B.jpg{A fragrance review of Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma was added to the blog!}



With Magnolia Nobile, the new fragrance from Acqua di Parma to be introduced from September 2009, one is invited to take a moment of respite by the shores of lake Como and to inhale the scent of magnolias that grow in the gardens of the "prestigious Italian villas" of the area.

The white floral trail of the composition is said to sign the presence of a woman who epitomizes femininity and refinement. The fragrance targets an exclusive clientele as alluded to in the ad copy,...


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Perfume Used as Weapon by Serial Offender in Central London {The 5th Sense in the News}


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The London Daily News reports that a man is using perfume as a pretext to lure in his unassuming victims in central London. We had heard about not infrequent street mugging in London lately, but this is a creative twist on the technique deployed for the attack.

"Reports are flooding into the London Daily News crime desk of serial attacks by a man around central London offering to females on the street to either buy or try or a new perfume.  

The perfume is in fact a highly toxic liquid, and is used by the male described to be around six foot well dressed and with an eastern European accent, to blind the victim and then steal whatever possessions they may have.
"


London on Alert with new "perfume squirting" crime...

Diane von Furstenberg D Gets Evaluated by Passersby in New York, and Not in a Good Way {The 5th Sense in the News}


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Designer Diane von Furstenberg pumps her perfume in the air in the Meatpacking district in NYC, gets irate feedback from passersby and neighbors who are less than enamored with her signature scent D. The epithets soon rain...


Continue reading "Diane von Furstenberg D Gets Evaluated by Passersby in New York, and Not in a Good Way {The 5th Sense in the News}" »

Chanel Jade & Jade Rose Limited-Edition Nail Polishes


Chanel-Jade-vernis-polish.jpgChanel is issuing a limited-edition of two rare colors of nail polishes inspired by the house's recent runway looks.

I am not 100 % sure which collection is referenced here, but found two matching looks from the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2009 fashion show which took place in March 2009 in Paris (click to enlarge the pictures below)...


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July 3, 2009

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne (2009): Fronted by Kate Moss, Composed by Grojsman & Labbe {New Perfume}


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What started as an internet saga tracking down some of the bits and pieces of news that came to see the light of day around the upcoming Parisienne by Yves Saint Laurent, has now become more widely distributed news.

The perfume reportedly incorporates an urban olfactory edge with notes of vinyl and gloss in the top to refer to nail polish and the scent of cosmetics, but also the perfume rendition of a metallic stiletto heel on asphalt....

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Helena Rubinstein Wanted: Fronted by Demi Moore, Composed by Benaim & Ropion {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


Demi-Moore-Wanted.jpgHelena Rubinstein will release a new perfume called Wanted named after their makeup line. Actress Demi Moore who is already their spokesperson for their beauty products will also be the face of Wanted. The perfume is described as a composition centering around magnolia...

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Juicy Couture Couture Couture (2009) {New Perfume}


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Juicy Couture have briefly announced that the brand will introduce their third feminine fragrance following Juicy Couture and Viva La Juicy this summer. In August 2009, expect to see a brand new scent called Couture Couture. Yes, you have to say it twice.

Celine Ellena & Thierry Hernandez Mix & Blend Bombay Bahia for Bombay Sapphire {Fragrant Recipe} {Fragrance News}


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Perfume and cuisine, perfume and beverages, the possibilities are endless as taste and smell are so inter-dependent. Gourmand perfumes, fragrances with a wine or spirits note tentalize the senses. Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez composed once a cocktail directly inspired by Joy by Patou. More recently mixologist Tony Conigliaro devised a cocktail based on Chanel No 5. In September, visitors to Paris will be able to taste an original concoction called Bombay Bahia created by perfumer Céline Ellena of Charabot together with the director of the bar of the Plaza Athénée in Paris, Thierry Hernandez...

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July 5, 2009

Lancome Hypnose Senses (2009): Second Skin {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}


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The bottle for Hypnôse Senses is beautiful in its crystalline simplicity. The name of the perfume is only readable on the top of the cap. The shape is borrowed from Magie by Lancôme (1950). This time, the shape is further elongated and looks a bit more like the bottle for l'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.


Perfumers: Christine Nagel, Nathalie Feisthauer, Ursula Wandel

Perfume Notes: top: pink peppercorn, mandarin essence; heart: osmanthus absolute, rose leaves, honey; base: Indonesian patchouli, cistus (vegetal amber), benzoin, tonka.


Hypnôse Senses is the latest flanker to the original Hypnôse by Lancôme created by perfumers Annick Ménardo and Thierry Wasser and launched in 2005. This time three women perfumers Christine Nagel, Nathalie Feisthauer and Ursual Wandel worked together to produce a fragrance that is subtly original and the olfactory equivalent to my nose of traces of lipstick and cosmetics left on a linen napkin: almost vanishing yet very sensual and present. The advertising campaign resting in part on a dedicated website puts the accent on Daria Werbowy's skin (she modeled for the original Hypnôse), an imagery that takes on a fuller meaning upon smelling the perfume.

Women will perhaps complain that the ad is particularly objectifying as Werbowy's body gets cut out in seven "sensual spots" drawing a map of desire that is only too predictable and essentially meant to satiate the male gaze even if mediated by a female one, which is curious considering that women are the prime targets of the ad (see Vivez l'expérience Senses). One can only complain that this ad is terribly and even caricaturally classic in its implicit subservience to masculine desire, unless you would be gay or post-lib. However, like lipstick and a good perfume, one can simply enjoy putting those on as gestures of self-cultivation and not care about someone looking up your thighs or down your cleavage for reassurance that this is a worthy scent.

Lancôme, via Pauline Zanoni the director of fragrance creation, insisted on the chypre lineage of Hypnôse Senses advancing the idea that through this affiliation the perfume was asserting once more the core tradition of the house which has been carried out by great chypres like Magie Noire (1978) (cf. Cosmoty.de). As far as chypre-perfume labeling goes, Hypnôse Senses is very soft and as close as can be to a full-fledged skin scent while using some of the neo-classic chypre ingredients: citrus, cistus, patchouli...

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Roget & Gallet Love The Dior Port-of-Call Concept {Perfume Images & Advert}


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Apparently Roger et Gallet think that the Dior idea of selling fresh eaux de cologne by evoking the  atmosphere of port of calls in the summer is great (see ad for Escale à Portofino and ad for both Escale à Portofino and Pondichéry below). The new advert for their line, which includes the latest Bois d'Orange, uses the tag line "Summer port of calls" as if each Roger et Gallet perfume held the promise of an exotic escape by sea wayfare. It is less glamorous than the Dior ad but hopes to tap into the same vein.

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Awful Plastic Surgery: Why, oh Why?


After having perused the website Awful Plastic Surgery which keeps track of all the botched plastic surgeries undergone by celebs, you have to throw up your arms in the air and ask: "Why, oh why?". The most heartbreaking examples are those of people who were naturally good-looking but then decided through a singular, sick distortion of their minds to become ugly through surgery. They apparently think, the poor things, that they look better or maybe their entourage tells them so. Something along the lines of "you've got the right freakish look that will show you're a real Hollywood sophisticate plus nobody is going to be jealous of you anymore so hey, less competition!"

The example of Nikki Cox was a shocker for me, who turned from angelic-faced to banal Hollywood look casualty.

Then I got sick and tired of the trout lip, the linker sausage lip, the pillow lip, the clown lips. Those mouths just look ungodly, like old-fashioned buoys, the bigger, the better...

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July 6, 2009

Jacques Fath Irissime (2009): From Iris Gris to Irissime: A Contemporary Version of Iris Gris {New Perfume} - Q & A with Fabrice Biré of Panouge around the Launch of Irissime {Perfume Q & A}


Irissime-Fath.jpgLast year a rumor started circulating on the Internet that a classic perfume by couturier Jacques Fath, the mythical Iris Gris (Gray Iris), was going to be resurrected. It is nearly impossible to find it nowadays, although it surfaces on very rare occasions; a set of Jacques Fath fragrances including the very elusive Iris Gris just recently sold on eBay (picture below).
 

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The perfume has not been lost to historic amnesia however thanks in part to perfumer Guy Robert who in the now out-of-print book Les Sens du Parfum counts it as one of the masterpieces of perfumery, one which was composed by nose Vincent Roubert. Guy Robert is quick to add though that his list is not exhaustive and presents a few of the best creations of a few of the best creators in perfumery. Vincent Roubert is thus included as the author of both Iris Gris and L'Aimant by Coty, the latter a much more readily available scent nowadays. L'Aimant was a spin-off version on Chanel No.5. 

For those interested in just smelling and not owning necessarily a perfume, a historically reconstituted version of iris Gris can be smelt at L'Osmothèque today thanks to the efforts of perfumer-curators. Needless to say it is now considered a museum piece. The sheer fact that the fragrance is nearly extinct in its original state has of course not lessened the levels of admiration for it but rather increased them. As it has become by historical accident even more exclusive and rare, we get the last ingredient needed for a perfume to become the stuff of legend: extreme exclusivity. Sometimes you have to wonder about that ultimate psychological element when perfectly wonderful fragrances can be had at drugstore prices and are not for that reason put on a pedestal, like L'Aimant for instance, the other masterpiece listed by Guy Robert.


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An original bottle of Iris Gris

I first learned about the project thanks to a reader who was wondering if I had heard about it and if one could give any credence to the rumor. After inquiring further and getting some helpful advice from Haarman & Reimer as well as Symrise later on, the company Panouge confirmed to me last summer that they were working on a reconstitution of the celebrated iris perfume which first appeared in 1946...

Continue reading "Jacques Fath Irissime (2009): From Iris Gris to Irissime: A Contemporary Version of Iris Gris {New Perfume} - Q & A with Fabrice Biré of Panouge around the Launch of Irissime {Perfume Q & A}" »

July 2009 Archive

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Fin O'Suilleabhain on Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes} : Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...

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Alan on A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading} : Hell-scent candle, lol.

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Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...

evageli karounzou on Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News} : at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...

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