The Buzz 
The Scented Salamander Blog A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly. "Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark" Latest Fragrance Reviews Dior Escale à Parati Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue Ferragamo Signorina Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés Jo Malone Plum Blossom Madonna Truth or Dare Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum
Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y. Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie Fragrance Essays Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes? Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes? Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s
Reviews of New Perfumes Diptyque Eau Rose Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Sisley Eau d'Ikar Mary Greenwell Plum Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Estée Lauder Wood Mystique Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Bottega Veneta EDP From the Archives Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.
|
 Bucket of Cherries by Carducius Plantagenet Ream, 1880.
This spring 2012, Guerlain, Elizabeth Arden and L'Occitane en Provence have introduced three new perfumes inspired by cherries, be it by the fruit, the blossom or the wood. They are Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom Eau Parfumée and L'Occitane en Provence Cherry Princess - Princesse Cerise.  Guerlain have revisted the 2009 composition, originally co-created by Delphine Jelk, the perfumer, and Sylvaine Delacourte, the artistic director. In-house perfumer Thierry Wasser concentrated, in particular, on reworking the cherry accord with the aim to paint it darker (cf. Cosmétique Mag, février 2012)...
Continue reading "3 New Cherry Nosegays by Guerlain, Arden and L'Occitane this Spring 2012 {New Perfumes} {Hasty Review}" »
In 2009, Chloé released a new iteration of their revamped Chloé - the one which is rose-based and not tuberose-based like the fragrance created under Karl Lagerfeld's tenure. The new flacon sports a gros-grain ribbon in charcoal gray (see ad) instead of beige and we know what painstaking efforts the house went through to find just the right piece of ribbon (just in case you were thinking that marketing fragrance teams are slackening and just pouring industry leftovers and bits in new launches while taking time off at the beach laughing their hearts out at people's naïveté. They, apparently, are naïve and believe in perfection)
I finally gathered some thoughts about the new Intense version comparing it with its predecessor in Eau de Parfum concentration...
Continue reading "Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense (2009) {Hasty Fragrance Review}" »
  I have seen some ambiguity arise in discussions around the new 2010 spring "Daisy in the Air" packaging, per Sephora, officially called the Garland - Guirlande Edition on the box which is color-coded blue and comes with a garland to be used as a home fragrance device: you spray your Daisy onto it and it will fill a room with the scent. Some people think it smells different and others say it smells the same. Since there is quite a bit of (sometimes justified) paranoia regarding covert reformulations of scents, I made sure to go check it out myself and clarify my impressions about it...
Continue reading "Notes on Marc Jacobs Daisy in the Air or Garland Edition: Different Color, Same EDT {Hasty Review}" »
 Zara has launched a series of new fragrances which are almost all featured on their website, except for a few like Winter and Silver Musk as far as I can tell. I am trying to contain a nascent laughter as I use the expression "uncanny resemblance" once more today as I applied it recently to Renato Balestra's "new" scent Diamante Nero because it might very well become a tag set-phrase for identifying replica scents. In this case, I am able to be more affirmative because while I do not know the notes that make up Winter, I was able to smell the fragrance...
Continue reading "Zara Winter (2009): Uncanny Resemblance {New Perfume} {Hasty Review}" »
 When people say that the perception of a perfume is entirely subjective, they ought to turn to the phenomenon of copycat scents that seems to contradict their claim and get back to me. Well, one supposes they could pull out a single note and declare the composition to smell entirely different. Or that it reminds them of their aunt Irma who smelled of leeks and therefore the perfume must smell of leeks... 
Continue reading "Nina Ricci Love by Nina (2009): Oooh, I Love That Little Green Dress! - Hasty-Review" »
Miller Harris Note de Peau - Hasty-Review*
Official notes:
Top notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine; heart notes: lavender,nutmeg,
incense, myrrh; base notes: heliotrope, tonka bean, musk, vanilla.
What they say:
Note de Peau is a homage paid to the Bon Marché Rive Gauche; it is inspired by and for Le Bon Marché; Miller Harris becomes the interpreter of French refinement; Miller Harris signs a new vision of the classical oriental (source: LBM website).
Created as an exclusive and pricey limited-edition scent for Le Bon Marché, Miller Harris Note de
Peau (Skin Note) comes enshrouded with an aura of mystery and
anticipation. After all you are expected to scurry to a unique location
to acquaint yourself with something that ought, no doubt, to smell
flattering both to the Londonian perfume house and the Parisian
department store. Showcased in an oasis of bon goût, the perfume's main
concern will probably be to make it worth your while to have jetted to
Paris or sought it desperately through intermediaries. You suspect this
could not be a Mac-Donald scent created in jest and just for the sake
of sound bites publicity while incorporating a signature accord of
chicken-nuggets (hope everyone is catching the allusion), unless the
instigators of the project are feeling suicidal. So the question you
ask yourself before inhaling the perfume is: what special formula will
have perfumer Lyn Harris concocted for the discerning clientele of the
Théâtre de la Beauté, the denizens of the rive gauche who walk past the Guerlain boutique and go to find refinements for their palates at the Grande Epicerie?...
Continue reading "Miller Harris Note de Peau (2008) {Hasty-Review}" »
 The world of fragrance - and this has to do with its artisan side - abounds with more or less derivative works. This time we mention one that is more than an inspired copy, a faithful copy but made with cheaper ingredients and available at a bargain price: the distinctive signature of the original Gianni Versace the debut scent of the flamboyant Italian fashion brand heralded by the Medusa head was recreated with Varensia by Ulric de Varens, the latter a down-market label that has decided to go slightly more upscale lately...
Continue reading "Versace Gianni Versace - Ulric de Varens Varensia {Perfumista on a Shoestring - Twin Frags} {Hasty-Reviews}" »
 CB I Hate Perfume, a Brooklyn-based perfume house, has introduced three new scents: November, Gingerbread, a December-only limited edition that appears annually and Walking in the Air, a home fragrance which recreates the pure scent of snow soon to be turned into an absolute by the perfumer who started wearing it himself. About November, a composition mingling the typical smells of an American autumn, from pumpkin pie to hickory woods to fallen leaves to golden apples, its creator Christopher Brosius writes in his blog, "I
think my November perfume is finished. I made a few small adjustments
to it this afternoon so will know tomorrow for certain. It wound up
being a much more complex perfume than I had intended but that is often
the way. The scent is also rather unusual for me - it's sweet. Still,
it's a very delicate sweetness that speaks more of autumn leaves,
hickory smoke, golden apples and the spices of a pumpkin pie than
anything heavy or cloying. I can't really make a cloying perfume... As
i said, November is a very complex scent. It's main note is Pumpkin
Pie blended with the scents of the autumn woods, fallen leaves,
bonfires and delicious apples - all of these scents are quite complex
in themselves. November has a lovely soft lush quality on the skin
which to my surprise I greatly enjoy - normally I myself am drawn to
greener things. But since I wear every scent I make while I'm working
on it, I've been wearing a lot of November lately and am very pleased
with its effect."...
Continue reading "CB I Hate Perfume November, Gingerbread, Walking in the Air (2009): Smells of Fall & Winter {New Perfumes} - Mango, Outside {Hasty-Reviews}" »
|
All original content and translations herein copyright © 2006. All rights reserved; reproduction requires the author’s prior written consent. You are however welcome to provide a link back to the posts on this site as long as you explicitly mention their authorship, recognize the original source of the information you give, and acknowledge the site of origin.
Powered by Movable Type 4.32-en
|
Digg This
Stumble
Facebook
Del.icio.us
