Helena Rubinstein WantedSmell Expensive for Less with these 6 PerfumesNatori by Josie NatoriNorth-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & WinterMy 2009 Halloween Shopping ListMarilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-TiengThe Body Shop Love Etc.Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark FruitsL'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'EstérelRobert Piguet FuturKate Moss VintageFrapin L'HumanistePatriotic Bestseller Perfumes: DiscussFaguenat, Faganat...Fug?Sniffing Rich Orientals in ParisL'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille Dolce & Gabbana Rose The OneGuerlain Idylle - Part 1Guerlain Idylle - Part 2Kat Von D Saint & SinnerCalvin Klein CK Free for MenMariah Carey ForeverWienerBlut KlubwasserPrada L'Eau AmbréeSerge Lutens Fille en AiguillesBritney Spears Circus FantasyYves Saint Laurent ParisienneIdole d'ArmaniGuerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry BlossomHermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane BlancheParfums de Nicolaï Weekend à DeauvilleSerge Lutens Fourreau NoirEssential FaithPenhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented StockMac Naked Honey & AfricanimalChopard CascadeLancôme Hypnôse SensesJuliette Has a Gun Midnight OudNarciso Rodriguez EssenceQueen Latifah QueenBenefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours GinaThe Body Shop White Musk White Hot SummerRochas Eau SensuelleL'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'AmourChloe Eau de ParfumGuerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine ScentsLush VanillaryByredo Bal d'AfriqueZadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2Guerlain MuguetGuerlain Muguet (en français)Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & DiorChanel Cristalle Eau VerteChristian Dior Escale à PondichéryFrédéric Malle Géranium pour MonsieurGobin-Daudé Sous Le BuisRoger et Gallet Bois d'OrangeMontale Patchouli LeavesStetson All AmericanStephen Jones by Comme des GarçonsGivenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'OrangerYves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'HommeYves Saint Laurent l'HommeThe Sex Factor in Men's FragrancesNina Ricci Love by NinaHermès Kelly Calèche EDPAnnick Goutal Un Matin d'OrageGuerlain La Petite Robe NoireSerge Lutens Nuit de CellophaneParfums MDCI Péché CardinalHermès Vanille Galante - Part 1Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2
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May 2006 Archive
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This is just a small reminder that on Mother's Day, Sunday May 14, a group of participating perfume and beauty blogs will each be fundraising for the charity of their choice. For each comment that you will leave here, $1 will be donated to the Orphan Foundation of America. There will also be a drawing for a 1 oz bottle of Eau de Patou, a hard to find fragrance (sorry, it's the only size I was able to find).The event was initiated and organized by Katie from Scentzilla!
 Orphan Foundation of America has served thousands of foster teens all across the United States. From teaching youth how to balance a checkbook, write a resume, and apply for that first big job, to testifying before Congress and State Legislatures, OFA has long been a vocal champion of foster teens… Each year OFA and its scholarship partners award more funding and provide a stronger safety net for those pursuing post-secondary education.” OFA also received a four star rating from CharityNavigator, which can be viewed by clicking here. In addition to financial donations, OFA also has opportunities for knitters to donate the products of their artistry. There is additionally the option for women to join the Pink Panel, run by The Benchmarking Company, who will donate $5.00 to a scholarship fund run by the OFA each time a woman joins or fills out a beauty survey. You can go to Benevolent Blogging for more detailed information on the participating blogs. Here's a current list of participating blogs:
I just got the news that the 2006 Guerlain reedition of Sous le Vent is now available --They just put it on display today! Some perfume lovers said on TSS that they were eagerly awaiting its release, so I gave them a ring. It will be exclusively sold in their Champs-Elysées flagship store. It costs 180 Euros for a 100 ml flacon of edt. It is not a limited edition (it is not numbered) and will be on sale during the whole coming year. The fragrance is part of the collection "Il était une fois" (once upon a time) and is a reissue of the fragrance created in 1933 by Jacques Guerlain. It is classified by the Guerlain people as an aromatic chypre ("un chypre aromatique"). "Top notes are aromatic": lavender, tarragon, basilic, citrus...
Heart notes are: carnation... Base notes are: oakmoss, iris, woods, patchouli... You can place an order by calling the House of Guerlain: 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysées 8th arrondissement 75008 Paris Tel: +33 (0)1 45.62.52.57 Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt There's a review-rêverie of Sous le Vent by Cait Shortell here on Legerdenez
Sometimes, when you smell certain fragrances, you are reminded that wearing a perfume can be a simple act that weaves itself effortlessly into the quotidian fabric of your daily life. When I breathe perfumes from Les Néréides line in, I think these are good, solid, and trustworthy fragrances that I could see myself getting on my way to the market, because I need to smell good on that day, but not necessarily because I feel I need to add them to my collection of carefully chosen fragrances (I’m really not that way, just imagining this as I am very eclectic by nature and by taste). I imagine stopping by an old-fashioned apothecary or neighborhood perfumery and asking for a bottle of Patchouli Antique, Impérial Opoponax, or Oriental Lumpur. The merchant would tell me that they have just blended Patchouli Antique this very morning. He goes to the back of the store to get it, wipes the flacon with a cloth and hands it to me. I inhale some of its scent lightly escaping from the freshly sealed bottle, recognize a familiar fragrance, exactly the one I was looking for when thinking of wearing patchouli on that day. It smells good and I can tell it is good quality. I tuck it away in my market basket and off I go looking for other aromatic treasures that will perfume my salad and the day.
To me, Les Néréides fragrances allow to recreate an atmosphere that is closer to that moment of intimacy you share with yourself when doing your “toilette”. I think less of the public, of a living room, of a soirée and more of an initial intimate space where you prepare yourself before sailing into the bustle of the day. This is the reason why I imagine Les Néréides flacons sitting on a marble counter in the bathroom, scenting your passage as you step out of the bathroom where you have just performed your daily ablutions. They are not pretentious scents, they only aim at perpetuating a respectable tradition of widely spread know-how concerning perfumes and oriental perfumes in particular in France. They hit the mark and it is their only ambition.
I read somewhere that in Europe, and certainly in France, the family of perfumes that is most favored are orientals, while in the United-States, white florals and clean scents are preferred. Nothing counter-intuitive to me here; I certainly feel that heavier scents are much better tolerated in Paris than in Cambridge and Boston, if these places could be seen as reliable barometers for national tastes.
Patchouli is apparently adored by the masses in France; the last time I traveled to Paris I was struck by how many people seemed to appreciate patchouli, men as well as women. I was all the more struck because my own experience of a national trend in taste in the US is made through the MUA fragrance board and correct me if I’m mistaken, but the majority of perfumistas on MUA seem to find little charm in wearing patchouli. It unfortunately connotes too much of the hemp store, of Woodstock, of the hippie predilection for it, especially as a resource for covering up pot’s smell. Nobody wants to be identified with a grungy hippie, if I may say so. (they were grungy before the grungy movement). So, the 1960s and 1970s are still too vivid in people’s memories so as to allow abstracting from that major scent reference. Shall we call it the patchouli decades? (this is a gross oversimplification because a multitude of perfumes were of course produced at that time.) But somehow, patchouli remains representative of an era and of a social movement.
The 19th century in France was also very patchouliesque. Everybody wore patchouli, you can encounter numerous patchouli references in the novels of that era, in Balzac, Hugo, Flaubert, Zola, and others. Patchouli was often dabbed, not onto the skin, but on handkerchiefs, thus in Les misérables, M. Gillenormand trumpets, “Woman! There is no Robespierre who holds out, woman reigns. (…) the Revolution twisted them (royal scepters) between its thumb and finger like halfpenny wisps of straw (…) but get me up some revolutions now against that little embroidered handkerchief smelling of patchouli! I would like to see you at it. Try!” The supreme seduction of both woman and patchouli is thus conveyed by Hugo. Emma in Madame Bovary also scents her kerchiefs with patchouli to further seduce her lover.
Due to its popularity, patchouli came also to mean an ordinary fragrance in French. When you exclaimed, “cela sent le patchouli!” you could be meaning a) it smells of patchouli, that exotic, earthy-smelling essence coming from Asia and Oceania, b) it smells of a cheap and strong perfume made with patchouli and I do not like it, you’re offending my nose. Once again we see a derogatory association made with patchouli.
The history of its use is fairly recent in Europe. Patchouli etymologically means “green leaf” in Tamil (patchai = green, ilai = leaf). The term in French dates back to 1829 when the plant was first introduced in France. The English adopted the term later, in 1851, via the French.
Despite some of its travails, patchouli is not dead and appears even popular in France. Many perfume lines, both high-brow and low-brow, offer their own renditions of patchouli. When I think of patchouli, I think of literary references, the latest one being the one illustrated by the George Sand (1804-1876) fragrance by Maître Gantier et Parfumeur, a recreation of Sand’s beloved patchouli perfume by nose Nicolas de Barry.
I'm still somewhere in my neighborhood but times have changed, well, maybe not that much. I go to Les Néréides, rue du Four, to sample their perfumes and I take three home with me.The gesture is simple, the prices are reasonable, the scents are good. It is a sensual line, with a dominant of orientals.
Impérial Opoponax is the one that I immediately noticed. It is a very warm, velvety scent, velvety to the point of making you think of caramel. It is sweet, it may evoke root-beer and Coca-Cola to you. Opoponax has natural overtones of lavender, so one is reminded of Musc Ravageur for this reason. A tangy, citrusy note becomes more apparent after the initial outburst of warmth. It warms up further and becomes slightly powdery. The sweetness becomes akin to that of sweet almond in the last stages. It becomes much more powdery in the end. Notes are: Opoponax (sweet myrrh), amber, vanilla, sandalwood, benzoin, citrus…
The structures of Les Néréides fragrances are fairly simple and straightforward. They are good juices, are made with some imagination and have great dry-downs. Patchouli Antique smells very earthy, woodsy, and only slightly sweet. It is strong at first but not overwhelming at all, it keeps itself in check. It feels like you’re embracing a tree in a forest, your nose close up to its bark and mossy patches. Like the other Néréides it warms up very well. With time it loses some of its gravitas to become prettier, lighter, which is an unexpected twist. In mid-course it develops references to a smoky black tea such as Lapsang Souchong and those very earthy black/red tea bricks shaped like wheels that you can sometimes procure in Chinatown. Notes are: Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, musk…
Oriental Lumpur is a spicy and medium-green scent. It is sweetly soft while maintaining a rather transparent texture. Its name evokes exotic merchant counters in Asia -- Lumpur means “straits” in Malay. I see an active, individualistic woman wearing this perfume, someone dressed a little masculine, a white shirt, no jewelry, a black jacket and trousers with a taste for travels and adventure. Notes are: saffron, curry, nutmeg, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli…
You can buy these scents at Luckyscent for $60.
Photos are from www.luckyscent.com
"'You shall not escape two sermons', he exclaimed. This morning you had the curé's, tonight you shall have the grandfather's. Listen to me; I am going to give you a piece of advice: Adore one another. I don't make undue flourishes. I go right to the point, be happy. The only sages in creation are the turtledoves. The philosophers say: Moderate your joys. I say; Give them full rein. Be enamored like devils. Be rabid. The philosophers talk nonsense. I would like to cram their philosophy back down their throats. Can there be too many perfumes, too many open rosebuds, too many nightingales singing, too many green leaves, too many dawns in life? Can you love each other too much? Can you please each other too much?"
Les misérables
Translation by Lee Fahnestock and Norman Mac Afee.
The Duke of Saint Simon recounts in his Memoirs that Louis XIV after having loved perfumes to excess in the first part of his life, and precisely for that reason, was not able to wear them any more in the second part of his existence. Perfumes would trigger excruciating headaches in him, to the point that he had to enforce a formal ban on perfume-wearing at the court at Versailles. Courtiers had to give up fragrances (and grey hats for that matter).
It is said that the only (sly) exception to the rule was the scent emanating from the jasmin-scented gloves of Madame de Maintenon, his second wife united to him through a secret, morganatic marriage. Saint Simon adds that there was however one scent that the king could still smell without becoming ill and that was "la fleur d'oranger" (orange blossom). Would Louis XIV have then approved of the scent created by nose Anne Flipo? Anne Flipo has created numerous perfumes, many of whom are florals. She is the author of L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême and of Poupée by Rochas, among others. I hesitate to say yes and this is why. Having read about the exceptional quality of the Tunisian orange blossom harvest from 2004 on which this vintage perfume is based, it made me think that this scent would be exceptionally delicate and subtle, offering a rich olfactory palette of half-tints and nuances never or rarely experienced before by human mortals. Talk about heightened expectations! First of all, I discover an overture which is strong, even pungent. This is a more brutal opening than I expected. The orange blossom at this stage makes you think of the essence you use in certain culinary preparations rather than of the flower itself. If you know those Iranian sweetmeats made of slivers of pistachio coated with snow-white sugar and perfumed with orange blossom, it is exactly that same scent. They are delicious. I used to love these delicacies but to find this reference in a rare bottle of perfume is a little disconcerting. I would have expected something more sophisticated, complicated, or more natural beauty.
The scent progressively softens down and becomes rounder, smelling more flowery. The sweetness of orange blossom is enhanced by the addition of honey notes. Sometime in the development of the perfume I perceive undertones of wheat and even of wheat bread. At one point, I bump my nose into my wrist and I think, Bois Farine! Mercifully, you can still perceive some citrus notes in the drydown which prevents the fragrance from becoming too sweet.
The evolution of the perfume is fairly linear and should please people who want to get an orange blossom fix. If you are looking for an interpretation of orange blossom, it is not really there. It it not photorealistic either though. it is like a concentrated version of orange blossom. Does it smell good? Yes, but not exceptional. It is also heady and personally, having worn it twice, I twice got a headache. It doesn't agree with me somehow, but I hope it will with you. I dare say Louis XIV would have probably found it too heady. On the other hand, Anne Marie Orsini, princess of Nerola would have probably approved of it. I see her as a stronger supporter of all-out orange blossom. PS: If you dab it lightly it should probably help tone down the perfume. Notes are: orange bigarade, petitgrain, nerolia, honey notes, concreta of orange blossom
You can buy a 100 ml bottle for $250 at Luscious Cargo (2990 copies total were issued.
Photo is from Luscious Cargo.
The Salon Parfums & Arômes (Perfume & Aroma Show) will open its doors for the second time in Paris from May 18 through May 21. Its aim is to reach a wider audience and bring for a few days the expertise of professionals and scholars to people interested in educating themselves about the fifth sense. There will be conferences as well as perfumery workshops. Scientists, historians, writers, chefs, perfumers and others will participate in the event. As the SPA states, the show aims to explore the new olfactive techniques available, ask questions about the role smell plays in our gustative experience, and finally, study the impact that odors have on love. The program promises to be rich and interesting. It offers, for instance, conferences by Annick Le Guerer on the future of the sense of smell, a pairing up of a chef, Alain Llorca, with people from the Molinard perfumery to investigate the perfumes used in cuisine. Specialists of wine, bread, and chocolate will discuss the aromas found in these products. The Givaudan school will be presented by its director, Jean Guchard, nose Mathilde Laurent will give a talk on custom-made perfumes and love, Elizabeth de Feydeau will talk about the perfumes of love in literature, Oleg Curbatov will present the world of the "perfumed internet" based on technologies of the future etc. Perfume activities for kids are also planned. You can find more information on their website: Salon Parfums et Arômes
Jean Madar, the Chairman of the Board and Chief Executive Officer for Inter Parfums, Inc. announced today that their prestige product launch schedule for 2006 was on course. The major products will come out in the second half of the year. We can thus expect to see a new Lanvin fragrance for Women, Burberry London for Men, and a new Paul Smith fragrance for Men. In the spring and the summer there will also be new men's fragrances unveiled for S.T. Dupont and Nickel. Source: Business Wire
Convenience chain operator Seven-Eleven Japan Co. said Thursday it will start marketing two types of canned oxygen designed to help consumers alleviate or soften fatigue and stress. The 3.2-liter canned supplements, named O2 Supli, provide an oxygen density ratio of 95 percent in relation to the container's volume, the company said. Oxygen inside the container is sprayed into a transparent plastic mask which is initially attached to the can as its cap. Users wear the mask, whose other end is inserted into the spray's nozzle. The canned oxygen products, developed with household products manufacturer Hakugen Co., will help refresh users, especially when they are driving automobiles or working at offices, the company said.
The products will be offered in two types with one carrying ''aroma'' sheets soaked with peppermint essential oil, and the other with grapefruit essential oil. The sheets are to be put near the nozzle to convey their fragrances to oxygen.
Both products will sell for 600 yen apiece. Seven-Eleven said it will put the products on store shelves in Tokyo, Chiba and Kanagawa on May 23 with their marketing areas to be expanded to all stores in the country on June
Melograno Selvatico means "wild pomegranate" in Italian and refers more particularly here to the pomegranate tree blossom. According to I Profumi di Firenze, the fragrance is based on a 16th century recipe. This is another one in a series of fragrances from their collection which attempts to replicate an antique perfume formula and harks back to the era of the splendor of the Medici. The line is understated (they do not even seem to have a website; please correct me if I'm wrong) but I find their creations to be consistently interesting as often their perfumes present touches of unmistakable individuality.......
Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Melograno Selvatico by I Profumi di Firenze" »
The launch of Eau de Stilton was announced today on the BBC. Nigel White, a representative for the Stilton Cheese Makers Association said, "The perfume has a very earthy, musky, herby type of background which is very different to the very sweet perfumes you smell wafting down the street as someone walks past you."
Here's the link to the article on BBC online: Stilton scent pleases cheese fans You can get samples of Eau de Stilton here from the Stilton Cheese Makers Association Notes are: yarrow, angelica seed, clary sage, valerian...
Another informative link: Cat Deeley to be face of new product
May 2006 Archive
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Adarkisanna on
Strange Article on Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss {Fragrance News} {Scented Thoughts}
: Hi all wanted to introduce myself!! I look forward to being part ...
zh on
Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One (2009): Fronted by Scarlett Johansson {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
: I'd definately buy this..I am a fan of D&G specially the ONE ...
Cornelius on
Two Versions of the Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci Commercial + The Behind-the-Scenes {Perfume Images & Adverts}
: I liked it. So much useful material. I read with great interest.
Alyssa Faria on
L'Eau Neuve, Le Vétiver by Lubin {New Perfumes}
: Dear Sir/Madam, I am a student at Tiffin Girls School, and am ...
Tara on
LL Bean Personalized Ice-Cream Bowls for Red Heads, Blonds, Dark & Light Complexions Etc. {Beauty & Society}
: Thank you so much for this information! I've just ordered my bowls.
Loie on
25th Anniversary of Tova Signature Fragrance {Perfume News}
: Come on Tova Borgnine, Please bring back the original tova singature perfume. ...
WASIF SALEEM on
Swiss Army Victorinox Moutain Water + A Secret Scent (2008) {New Fragrances}
: I am very fond of perfumes and just heard about your quality ...
Alica on
New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways}
: wrinkles and dry skin but oily T is my problem plus graying ...
Mario on
Serge Lutens Fille En Aiguilles (2009): Medicine Mandala with a Sense of Humor or Enlightenment Not Guaranteed {Perfume Review}
: Never have I read such a luscious and more evocative description of ...
Merricat on
New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways}
: Brown spots Dry brittle hair
Tammy on
The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is...
: Yay! I'm so excited to smell these. Thanks a bunch :)
George Sand Devotee on
Perfume Review & Musings: George Sand by Maître Parfumeur & Gantier
: Mimi, a lovely piece, beautifully written. Thanks for telling the story. I ...
DJ Fade on
Fergie of Black Eyed Peas Signs up with Avon {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
: its gonna sell, but I think it's going to smell, Fergie probably ...
Akbar Suleman on
Azzaro Pour Homme by Azzaro (1978) {Perfume Short (Review)} {Men's Cologne}
: I recently use AZARO and i like it very much but its ...
Laurian on
The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is...
: yay for tammy !!! enjoy
- Barbara Orbison Pretty Woman (2009) {New Perfume}
- Two Versions of the Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci Commercial + The Behind-the-Scenes {Perfume Images & Adverts}
- Design Thierry Bogaert Voile de Beton (2009) {New Perfume}
- Scented German Calendars {Fragrant Shopping}
- Lubin Parfumeur Has a New Website {Fragrance News}
- Nature et Decouvertes Nectar de Sajara, Bulle de Yuzu, Seve de Wenge (2009) {New Perfumes}
- Scented Quote of the Day, from Celine Lheritier: Why Functional Perfumery is Cool
- New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways}
- LL Bean Personalized Ice-Cream Bowls for Red Heads, Blonds, Dark & Light Complexions Etc. {Beauty & Society}
- Frederic Fekkai Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Perfume} {Beauty & Olfaction}
- The Comeback of J. Grossmith Son & Co Perfumes {Fragrance News}
- MAC Cosmetics Suntints SPF 20 Liquid Lip Balm in Lilt of Lily (2009) {Beauty Review} Reviewing Lip Balms {Beauty Notes}
- Winter Skin On My Mind: Caudalie Moisturizing Cream-Mask Face & Eyes {Beauty Review} {Beauty & Olfaction}
- 25% Off at Kenzo USA {Shopping Tip}
- Auric Blends Naturals Layla, Pele, Siren, Tara (2009) {New Perfumes} {Green Products}
- The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is...
- Happy Halloween to The Scented Salamander Readers
- My 2009 Halloween Shopping List: Ambiguity {Beauty Notes} {Perfume List}
- Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane (2010) {New Perfume}
- Vera Wang Glam Princess: Fronted by Zoe Kravitz (2009) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- Balenciaga Paris Eau de Parfum (2010): Fronted by Charlotte Gainsbourg {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Sniffing Suggestions}
- Rochas Have a New Website, with Notes on Madame Rochas & Femme Concentrations {Fragrance News}
- Win a Set of 3 Filles des Iles Perfume Oils {Contests & Giveaways}
- Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng: A Different Kind of Green {Perfume Review}
- Hypnotize-Lancome-with-your-Fashion-Sense Contest: Win a Bottle of Hypnose Senses Signed by Daria Werbowy + a Gift Card
- Scented Quote of the Day, from a 13th Century French Poem:
- Preview of the New Creed Boutique in Manhattan {Perfume Movies & Adverts}
- Etat Libre d'Orange will Release Tilda Swinton & Josephine Baker Perfumes {Fragrance News}
- The Body Shop Love Etc. (2009): Milky Fruity-Floral with a Mint or Fir Twist {Perfume Review}
- Improve Health & Winter Skin with Houseplants Selected by NASA (Beauty & Health Tip of the Day}
- Fruit Ripening Rack or Winter Tree by Godefroy de Virieu {Shopping Tip}
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