The Buzz

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Helena Rubinstein Wanted

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

Natori by Josie Natori

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter

My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


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May 2006 Archive

Page 4 of 7  •  1 2 3 4 5 6 7

May 12, 2006

The Fifth Sense in the News: Dévouement, a Perfume to Honor Firefighters

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After Eau de Stilton, another interesting perfume concept is explored here. A new perfume created to embody the profession of firefighter, a profession composed of many volunteers, has been released in France. Catherine Hermet, a volunteer firefighter herself, came up with the idea. Realizing that smells that were normally associated with firefighters were conventionally thought to be unpleasant, such as smoke, sweat, and soot, she decided to develop a scent that would do justice to and reflect the beauty and moral qualities found in her profession. For each bottle sold, there will be 2 Euros donated to the firefighters' orphan foundation.

Dévouement (Dedication) is described as a fresh, hesperidic, woodsy, and marine scent.

Top notes are: cardamom, grapefruit, bergamot, orange...

Heart notes are: clove, ginger, water jasmin, tea...

Base notes are: sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar, musk... 

The scent was created by a perfumer from the company Expressions Parfumées in Grasse. 

"This perfume was created for all those who with courage fight every day to protect your lives, forests, and material possessions."

"Dévouement is the first fragrance from a line that is dedicated to all those for whom the profession of firefighter constitutes a passion."

The perfume is sold both online and in fire stations in France. It can be shipped to European countries and to French overseas territories. Unfortunately, they do not ship to the US.

Price depends on the destination and number of fragrances purchased.

It costs 37 Euros in France for a 100 ml bottle. A car scent diffuser, also in the shape of a firefighter's helmet is set to be released.

More information can be found on this website, Kreadis

Source: "Le sent-bon de pompier" by Gilles Wallon in Libération of 12 May 2006. 

My Perfume Desires of the Week: Courtesan by Worth, Miss Sixty by Miss Sixty, Anné Pliska by Anné Pliska

 

These are the perfume desires that were born this past week and didn't die by Friday. I will post a list of these hot objects of desire on Fridays. They are my perfume desires but, needless to say, they can become yours.

Help me squash my perfume desires or, alternatively, nurture them.

Miss Sixty by Miss Sixty

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This one I read about in the British press and it sounds so light, springey, and carefree, I immediately wanted to get it and wear it with my toes sticking out of my sandals. it is available from British sellers on eBay.

 "Go getting, trend setting, its the label worn by girls who stand out from the crowd.
Designed in Italy, desired by the world over, its right at the cutting edge of fashion.

The Fragrance of Excess!
Top notes: Fresh and upbeat, tangy rhubarb and redcurrant set the senses tingling with excitement.
Heart notes: In delicious contrast, vibrant sweet pea blends with powdery heliotrope for provocative femininity.
Base notes: Intense and rich, amber and palissander wood create a sensual harmony that's pure addiction.

This first signature fragrance captures the spirit of Miss Sixty in a bottle. Sometimes irreverent, often provocative, always exciting.
It's sexy, glamorous and anything but ordinary."

Source: Boots 

Courtesan by Worth

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This perfume was created in 2005 by parfumeur-créateur Pierre Bourdon for Worth. Again, I read a tantalizing description of it. I was completely lured in by the lightness and the je ne sais quoi that it promises to deliver. It was dubbed the "ideal spring fragrance" by a British journalist. The name I also love, Courtesan, sounds right up my alley (I mean, just because it reminds me of Balzac), just sulferous enough to make it sound like a dangerously seductive scent underneath that springey cover-up.

It helps nurture my perfume desire that it is a very elusive scent. I think it's sold at Harrods in London, but I have not been able to gather much information about it. If you know anything about it, please let me know.

I know that it is a floral oriental with a dominant note of peach.

Top notes are, cinnamon, cardamom, clove, pineapple, and red berries. The heart notes are, orange blossom, magnolia, jasmine and rose.
Base notes are, peach, caramel, raspberry, chocolate, vanilla and cocoa bean.

Photo is from eBay 

Anné Pliska by Anné Pliska

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Victoria from Victoria's Own wrote an utterly convincing review of Anné Pliska by Anné Pliska. Not only does she laud it, she has also been wearing it for the past 18 years! The proof is in the pudding, I MUST try it and adopt it, if it works out well with my chemistry (very few perfumes have let me down, I can think of only five the past year that have given me headaches). It already works out well with my imagination. The color of the jus is just gorgeous.

Notes are: mandarin, bergamot, jasmin, geranium, vanilla, amber, patchouli, and musk.  

 

 

Photo is from Luscious Cargo 

May 13, 2006

Scented Thoughts: More on Eau de Stilton & on Milk, Seduction, and Fragrances

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The pilot launch of Eau de Stilton is generating quite a stir. People are adopting a wait-and-see attitude to see if this perfume concept will flounder or not. The dairy farmers who have come up with the idea are selling at this point about 200 sample-bottles (the price was not mentioned) hoping that the perfume will catch on. If it does, it will go into mass production. At any rate, even if the perfume does go down, the SCMA will have succeeded in drawing much attention to themselves. There is indeed a successful advertising campaign going on right now for the association of Stilton makers...


Continue reading "Scented Thoughts: More on Eau de Stilton & on Milk, Seduction, and Fragrances" »

May 14, 2006

Scented (Good) Thoughts: Happy Mother's Day! & Charity Fundraising for Orphan Foundation of America

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Starting today just past midnight and until midnight I will donate $1 to the Orphan Foundation of America for each message that you leave on this blog today. This effort is part of the Benevolent Blogging effort organized by Katie from Scentzilla!

I will also hold a drawing for a bottle of Eau de Patou from amongst all the people who leave a comment (please see my previous post for more details about the charity event). If you do not wish to be included in the drawing for privacy reasons, for example, please let me know. I will ask either my husband or my three-year-old to draw (preferably my boy if he is not in too mischievous a mood!) You can leave a simple Hi or if you want, you can tell us what perfumes or scents you associate most with your mother as a way of celebrating Mother's Day. You could also tell us what is the best perfume compliment you ever received or the one that pleased you most.

When I think of my mother, I think mostly of four perfumes that seem to have marked different periods of her life: Eau de Calandre, Chloe, Joy, and Femme. But to tell you the truth, she is not that into perfumes.

Orphans are children who one day lose a necessary presence in their lives and are made even more vulnerable than other children because of that. I hope we can help them a bit, but I also know that beyond this action we are undertaking today, what they most need is to find a good family.

I have a friend who is an orphan who was abandoned at birth and she told me that, "Anything is better than the orphanage." She was saying that to explain to me how she had had the will to survive the mistreatment, even the torture, inflicted upon her by the companion of her adoptive father who would sometimes burn her legs with cigarette butts.

There are many different reasons why children are given up for adoption. I saw a program on TV once where a woman decided after having had 3 children to give up the one she was pregnant with, mainly for financial reasons -- it was a matter of survival for her, for her family, and for the child. The program showed her giving birth and then not even wanting to take a closer look or have a close contact with the baby. It was heartbreaking to see the physical distance separating her from her baby and to think of the future life of that child.

Coco Chanel was abandoned by her father who left her in an orphanage after the death of her mother because he could not see himself taking care of her as a single parent.

A friend told me that her father had been abandoned by his mother as a little boy in the midst of a crowd at the open market during winter. He remembered how she had let go of his hand at some point. That man, her father, buit a family afterwards but he was only able to speak about this event when in his fifties. She told me that her father had been so unspeakably scarred by this event that he had been able to talk about it and allude to the scene of his abandonment to his family only then. They never knew. I remember meeting her father and thinking how hard this man was, not mean. Just something in him felt as hard as stone.

I wish that orphans may find other people who will love them. I also wish all of you much love in your lives.

 

Please visit other blogs participating in Mother's Day fundraising!


Beauty Addict for Orphan Foundation of America
Blogdorf Goodman for FINCA International
Brain Trapped in Girl's Body for FINCA International
A Girl's Gotta Spa for Orphan Foundation of America
MonkeyPosh for Humane Society of the United States and Muscular Dystrophy Association
Mother Hen’s Place for Aga Khan Foundation Canada
Legerdenez for Orphan Foundation of America
One Child Left Behind for Heifer International
Perfumery for FINCA International
The Scented Salamander for Orphan Foundation of America
Scenteur 7 for Orphan Foundation of America *Participating May 10th through the 15th
Scentzilla! for FINCA International
SmellyBlog for FINCA International
The Soap Blog for UNIQUE
That Obscure Object of Desire for FINCA International
Urban Chick for Womankind Worldwide *Participating May 12th 'til she returns from holidaying a few weeks*
Victoria's Own for FINCA International
Yankee Family goes South for Orphan Foundation of America

May 15, 2006

The Fifth Sense in the News: Mona di Orio

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A vignette on perfumer Mona di Orio in the Sunday Times of 14 May 2006:

 
Scent of a Woman 

 

 

New Perfume: Kenzo Amour

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A new women's perfume, Kenzo Amour, will be introduced worldwide in September. It will make its debut at Sephora and Nordstrom in the US.

It was created by perfumers Daphne Bugey and Olivier Cresp from Firmenich. Patrick Guedj, the Creative Director of Parfums Kenzo, explained that "The basic idea was a voyage of love, of emotion, and a bird as a symbol of love" (...) "The scent is an olfactory voyage through Asia, meant to evoke frangipani flowers from Bali, Japanese cherry blossom and rice and vanilla from China."

"...the fragrance features top notes of cherry blossom, rice and white tea; heart notes of frangipani and heliotrope, and base notes of thanaka wood, vanilla and musk."

The 100 ml, 50 ml, and 30 ml will be priced at $85, $65, and $48 respectively. The bottles were designed by Karim Rashid and are reminiscent of works by Romanian sculptor Constantin Brancusi.

Source: Women's Wear Daily 

Perfume Review & Musings: Couture! by Moschino

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Couture! was released in 2004. Its top notes are bergamot, a hint of pepper, mandarin orange. Middle notes are yellow poppy, jasmine, pomegranate blossom, poppy seeds. Base notes are benzoin, vanilla, and cedar wood.

Couture! opens up with a very soft, sweet, even suave accord, enlivened by citrus as well as slightly peppery notes. It smells distinctive, a good point in the context of a market that privilieges copy-cat perfumes. It is, at the same time, reminiscent for me of the contrast found between citrusy tanginess and a sweet flowery richness in Roma by Laura Biagiotti. Both have prominent citrus in the opening and rich jasmine in the heart notes combined with a warm woodsy base. However, the slightly tart and sickly sweetness found in Roma is much more subdued here.

I find that this perfume tends to numb one's nose, so that the closer one gets to the scent, the more this one seems to vanish, with only a ticklish sensation remaining and marking its continued presence. Later, only a waft of air brings back the scent to my consciousness.

The perfume is warm without being heavy. It tends however to become harsher in the middle of its development and by that I mean that it smells a bit of Castille soap. "Soapy" is a term that is part of the vocabulary commonly used to describe what I am trying to get at. As far as I know, there seems to be two principal meanings ascribed to that term.

Soapy can mean that a certain scent makes me feel as if I had just taken a shower and there is a residual, pleasant soapy/clean smell lingering on my skin. Soapy can also mean that the smell makes you downright think of soap itself, that there's a certain lurking pungency to it that is reminiscent of bathroom liquid soap in public spaces (not of the best kind) and perhaps of Castille soap turned a bit rancid. Yes, "rancid" is the word. It is as if the oils in the soap had degraded. For example, I smell that very characteristically in Tabu by Dana (no offense meant to Tabu fans). Unfortunately, in my view, Couture! has a bit of the rancid type of soapiness.

There are probably some aldehydes, although these are not mentioned. Reportedly, certain aldehydes can smell like tallow candles, hence the rancid note. That explains to me also the constant tingling sensation I get when inhaling the scent.

However, if I stop deconstructing my sensations I am able to better capture the ensemble. The fragrance is sweet and mellow and evokes fresh petals of flowers after a while. The perfume warms down to a deep and soft drydown which is very pleasant. It is quite vanillic due to the combined presence of vanilla and benzoin as well as very woodsy. The overall impression the perfume gives me is that of a sensual and dressed-up scent, projecting an aura of sophistication which may prove useful to add a little fancy touch to your outfit in the workplace.

I see it more as a social perfume meant for others rather than for oneself, that is, a perfume able to send an image of chic and self-control, but which has also the effect of masking your real personality. I don't think I would want to wear it at home, it's too self-conscious of its effects on others and a little bit guarded.

In sum, I see it as a more toned-down and updated version of the power-perfume of the 80's (compare with Roma by Biagiotti which was created in 1988). I would still prefer to wear Cinnabar by Estée Lauder for the same effect (Cinnabar's notes are also similar to those of Couture!) because I find it to be more generous, frank, and ample as a perfume, freer. Cinnabar has a richer and better drydown. I also am able to stand aldehydes in Lauder's perfumes much more than in other brands.

A perfume for women who need to respect conventions, even for a day, and keep up appearances in public or at work, while sending a message of sophistication.

 
Photo is from www.fann.cz 

And the Winner is....

The winner of the bottle of Eau de Patou is Sybil! My son's innocent hand drew her name out of the basket.
Sybil, please send me your address. And many thanks to all of you for your participation in Benevolent Blogging, it was great.

May 16, 2006

Perfume List: Seasonal Scents

A list of the best scents for each season according to a perfumery buyer at Fenwick's Department Store and the manager of L'Artisan Parfumeur in London (be warned that there are annoying pop-up ads on the site). Check out the other articles on perfumes on the same site.

Seasonal Scents 

The Fifth Sense in the News: Eau de Stilton (continued)

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Here is an article by Laura Barton in the Guardian of May 15, 2006 where she attempts to give some context for Eau de Stilton. The author also offers some sociological data on scent preferences depending on generations.

 The Sweet Smell of Stilton, Turpentine etc

May 2006 Archive

Page 4 of 7  •  1 2 3 4 5 6 7

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