Monthly Archives from March 2006

July 2008 Archive

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July 1, 2008



New Coach Limited-Edition Bottle: Snatch It While You Can {Fragrance News}

Coach-Limited-Edition-Bottle.jpg Luggage brand Coach has issued a new limited-edition bottle for its debut eponymous fragrance, Coach launched last year. It picks up the same decorative logo theme as found on the original flacon but colors it in bright shades.

That's the good news for fans of the fragrance. The bad news is that it is already sold out online. You will need to cross your fingers and hunt it down by calling different Coach stores.

Parfum d'Empire Yuzu Fou, Aziyadé (2008) {New Perfumes}


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Parfum d'Empire will launch two new perfumes in September 2008 baptized Yuzu Fou (Mad Yuzu) and Aziyadé. They represent a new variation on the dominant thematic of the perfume house which aims to retell the stories of empires in perfumes: the two new scents concentrate more on the idea of multiculturalism as experienced through travels within the contemporary world and in history.

Yuzu Fou is about 21st century Japan and the meeting of a hyper urban architecture with  suspended gardens and vegetal walls all set in the context of a trendy Japanese culture; Aziyadé is a transcultural interpretation of the past of several empires at the height of their powers as "...it evokes civilisation at its peak, a moment when cultural richness is at one with luxury and ectasy." The latter is also a fragrance created in honor of Parfum d'Empire's 10th anniversary and "...was inspired by his [founder and perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato's] faithful friend and partner Ambre de Reinac Cessac"...


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July 2, 2008

Linden Blossoms in Cambridge {Scented Thoughts - Journal}


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Linden Blossoms in Cambridge


Thinking of Tagore I want to say, "Linden, linden, linden!"; the past few days have been an olfactory feast for linden blossom lovers. First, branches that were usually high-up in the sky have descended towards the sidewalks, escaping the confines of terracotta-colored brick garden walls as if eager to share their bounty; now they have started to reach a person's height, then like an eccentric Alexander Mc Queen butterfly hat, but without any opening here to allow for normal vision, they also gradually descended upon my head, willing to coiffe me with their featheriness and ethereal pompoms and finally slapping me in the face as I walked, preferably, underneath them. At that point where the linden tree blossoms and leaves were hovering just above my hair, a cascade of pale green cotton mimicking heavy succulent grapes zeroing in on earth, and maybe before that getting off at a station before to tickle the noses of children, it made me stop dead in my tracks. I was suddenly surrounded in the heat by the isolating capsule of a cool sensation smelling of fresh green melon and immediately I recognized it "Un Jardin Après La Mousson!" Then I asked myself, puzzled "who might be wearing Un Jardin Après La Mousson with so much gusto?" Nobody but the linden tree apparently; the blossoms were just displaying a hitherto unnoticed facet: an aquatic green melon one, which together with the natural buttery nuance of the flowers made for a sketch of a moment in the development of UJALM. Then of course I asked myself, "Was there any linden in the perfume and did I mistake it for a green melon note?"...


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July 6, 2008

Happy 4th of July...And What does Skunk Cabbage Smell Like? {Scented Thoughts - Journal}

4th-July-TSS.jpgHope everyone is having a lovely 4th-of-July weekend! There are still fireworks planned for this evening so the festivities are not quite over yet in the part of the country where we are. The other day the countryside smelled fresh and cool in the evening mixed with gunpowder.

I took some olfactory notes on Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus Feotidus) or Swamp Cabbage. Depending on whether you smell the crushed leaves or stem, the smells differ slightly.

Despite its name, the plant is not repulsive at all, making you think more of savory culinary associations and wondering whether it might work in a recipe. This source indicates that Native Americans even used skunk cabbage as an underarm deodorant, which points in the direction of a buttery, garlicky aroma being considered attractive, as it is in some other cultures....

Continue reading "Happy 4th of July...And What does Skunk Cabbage Smell Like? {Scented Thoughts - Journal}" »

July 8, 2008

Revamped Dior Parfums Site - Mini Interview with François Demachy {Fragrance News}


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Dior have re-looked their perfume website, as they visibly wish to reach out to online consumers. The layout indicates they are very much aware that their clientèle is part of the new-luxury trend and expect more detailed information about fragrances than just the common ad-copy fare. As already apparent in their press releases, a new attention is paid to telling the stories of perfumery ingredients, no doubt under the influence of new in-house "parfumeur-créateur" François Demachy;the perfumer previously worked for Chanel and is also the perfume supervisor, if you will, for the LVMH group which owns Dior.

Escale à Portofino, a refined, creative eau de cologne, is now available online for 83 €...

Continue reading "Revamped Dior Parfums Site - Mini Interview with François Demachy {Fragrance News}" »

July 9, 2008

Creed Love In Black (2008): Mauve Is The Color of Demi-Deuil {Perfume Review}

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Jackie Kennedy campaigning with John in Wheeling, West Virginia 1959 © Mark Shaw/Monroe Gallery


Love in Black is the latest perfume creation for women from the house of Creed founded in 1760 in England, relocated to Paris in 1854. If the scent is already out in the French capital city, it will be introduced in the US only later in September 2008. The name is like an echo and a reverse image of Love in White launched in 2005, a fragrance with a bridal theme. Like its predecessor and many other Creed perfumes it wishes to be a reference to a patrician world of wealth and privilege. Also like several other Creed fragrances, it is inspired by the memories and image of an iconic woman. This time Jacqueline Lee Bouvier Kennedy Onassis is the muse to perfumers Olivier and Erwin Creed like Grace Kelly was for Fleurissimo and Audrey Hepburn for Spring Flower. The composition itself is described as a "violet oriental" and evolves as a fresh and woody violet then iris scent developing within the elegant range of the colors black to pastel mauve.
 
Jackie O
 

There are women who stand as collective references even to those who do not necessarily follow them. Some of them epitomize a near-saintly virtue often referred to in an understated fashion as "grace under pressure". In an alliance of feminine charm, inward and outward elegance and steely strength they seem to be composed of a special essence. To explain her own personal forbearance in the face of adversity, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis once said that she could not but act the way she did thinking about her forebear General Lee. The quality that was striking in her from my general perception of her image was her stoicism and something else about her that made her appear to be immutable, unruffled. When Jackie Onassis died in 1994, I had precisely started to feel her disappearance from the public scene asking myself randomly one day what had become of her not having heard of her or seen her pictures in the press for a while. There are such synchronicities of consciousness, I find, and celebrities thus populate more or less unconsciously the social imagination. Then the news came in quickly to answer this question and we all learned that she had died at a relatively young age, in her sixties, from cancer. It was like a public confession of vulnerability. She who had to overcome daunting challenges such as the loss of children, the assassination of her husband, and more, was not meant to live on a tranquil life, but had somehow finally ceded under the pressure from existence, prematurely...


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Love in Black © Creed

Continue reading "Creed Love In Black (2008): Mauve Is The Color of Demi-Deuil {Perfume Review}" »

Scented Quote of the Day, from August von Kotzebue (1761-1819):

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Picture of the English adaptation of Lovers' Vows by Elizabeth Inchbald


"Enter Count

Count: Ah, bon jour, mon colonel. Fair lady, I kiss your hand.

(Amelia curtsies and returns no answers)

Baron: Good morning! Good morning! But, My Lord, it is almost noon. In the country, you must learn to rise at an earlier hour.

Count: Pardonnez, mon Colonel. I rose soon after your great clock struck six? But my homme de chambre was guilty of a betise, which has driven me to absolute despair; a loss, which pour le moment cannot be repaired...

Continue reading "Scented Quote of the Day, from August von Kotzebue (1761-1819):" »

July 10, 2008

John Galliano Launches Signature Fragrance {Perfume News} {Celebrity Fragrances}

John-Galliano-Perfume.jpgOn July 8th 2008 in Paris, designer John Galliano, the artistic director for Dior Couture, launched his debut signature fragrance in the rather intimate settings of his studio located in the 20th arrondissement. The tag line goes "Le parfum no. 1 de John Galliano". He previously created a home fragrance with Diptyque under his name called Essence of John Galliano, a wonderful scent smelling of a bonfire.  He also had a say in the Dior La Collection Particulière. 

The signature John Galliano perfume was developed by Selective Beauty who is also in charge of the Bulgari, Agent Provocateur, Burberry, and Benetton brands.

No information yet on the notes, but the bottle can be admired: it looks wild, baroque, talismanic, mysterious, gothic! It looks promising if the jus feels anything like the external aesthetics of the flacon.

The studio baroque and eclectic interior design seemed to correspond well to the style of the bottle...

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John Galliano fragrance launch party © Getty Collection

Continue reading "John Galliano Launches Signature Fragrance {Perfume News} {Celebrity Fragrances}" »

Sarah Jessica Parker Talks About Covet Pure Bloom {Perfume Images & Adverts} {Celebrity Fragrances}

Actress Sarah Jessica Parker talks about her latest Covet Pure Bloom explaining it was inspired by the scents of Hawaii and of the Pikake flower in particular. To her, it is more of a seasonal fragrance and offers something more unique than Lovely although the latter is admittedly full of social graces. She says that she wears all of her perfumes "religiously".

Covet Pure Bloom is currently exclusively available on HSN. A kit including a 1.7 oz bottle of the new scent and a solid perfume compact of Covet, the second one of her perfumes, is available for $52.

Watch her,


Van Cleef and Arpels Féérie (2008) {New Perfume}

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Luxury jewelry brand Van Cleef and Arpels is launching a new perfume this month dubbed Féérie. As its name indicates, it wishes to make customers dream about a magical world. The bottle has been paid particular attention to as Inter Parfums president Phillipe Benacin reveals "We want it to be the most beautiful object in the store,". The fragrance created by perfumer Antoine Maisondieu appears to pick up on a fairy-tale thematic that was gaining steam last year; the design of the flacon also points to a trend towards talismanic perfume bottles which recently might include Etat Libre d'Orange Rossy de Palma, Paco Rabanne Black XS, John Galliano's signature perfume, and now Féérie. The latter makes you also think of Lolita Lempicka's enchanted world and less well known but also playing along these lines, Summersent by Marjorie Midgarden...

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Halle Berry Shoots Fragrance Commercial In Hawaii {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfumes}


Halle-Berry-Shoot-Fragrance-Coty.jpgAs previously reported, Halle Berry is going to contribute to the ever-growing portfolio of Coty's celebrity-endorsed fragrances. Judging from the first photos available, the theme is sunny and beach-y. It does not seem that the Halle Berry fragrance will go in the direction of a super glamorous fur-and-diamonds perfume. Brown Sista reports on the commercial shoot in Hawaii and she offers a few more pictures.

Yves Saint Laurent Launches New African Colors Collection & Everlong Mascara Waterproof

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Soleil d'Afrique Bronzer © Yves Saint Laurent


Yves Saint Laurent, in keeping with their tradition of exoticism, is introducing a new collection of makeup for the summer this time inspired by Africa. YSL, the former great couturier (see also images of his funeral), is well known for having loved to read richly illustrated books about distant lands and derive creative ideas from them, without even having traveled to the places depicted. This trait of his is considered part of his stylistic genius. 

This summer of 2008, Val Garland, the Make-Up Artistic Advisor for YSL is offering a strikingly colored line of makeup which includes in particular, a bronzer, Soleil d'Afrique (African Sun), an eye-shadow palette titled Palette Couleurs d'Afrique, a Tinted Veil Tan Booster. These items are limited-editions. As part of the summer 2008 Look is also Everlong Mascara Waterproof which reportedly allows you to dive into the sea without any resulting smudges!...

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Yves Saint Laurent New African Colors Collection {Beauty Notes - Makeup}

Africa-Colors.jpgAfrica is hot this summer as Yves Saint Laurent launches a new limited-edition collection of makeup colors inspired by the dark and colorful continent.

Here are our picks for noteworthy products from the 2008 YSL Summer Look: Soleil d'Afrique, Palette Couleurs d'Afrique, Voile de Soleil, and the Everlong Mascara Waterproof. Read more about them on Beauty And The Salamander and go for the glow!...

July 11, 2008

More on John Galliano Signature Perfume (2008) {New Fragrance}

John-Galliano-Outer-Packaging.jpgAs reported yesterday, John Galliano presented his signature fragrance for the first time at a launch party in Paris on July 8th. Now we learn that Galliano,

"...let his romantic vision run full throttle with the fragrance project, from scattering love letters throughout the room of its launch event to the multilayered references that figure in the final product. There's the artist Baldini; Galliano's frothy, bias-cut dresses; the powdery backstage at his fashion shows, and his childhood memories of freshly ironed shirts, to name a few."

The new John Galliano perfume is reported to be built on an overdose of aldehydes to convey the sensation of "freshly ironed shirts" followed by floral notes that are dear to the heart of the designer...

Continue reading "More on John Galliano Signature Perfume (2008) {New Fragrance}" »

Upcoming Fragrance Launches in 2008 {Fragrance News}


Perfume-Bottles-TSS.jpgWWD has an article listing a comprehensive number of the upcoming launches for the remaining of 2008. Among the ones not already covered on the blog and worthy of attention are: Prelude to Love by Kilian, Aroma M Geisha Blanche (August); B by Boucheron, Coach Legacy, Comptoir Sud Pacifique Hemisphère Sud for women, Kenzo Winter Flowers, La Voce by Renée Fleming from Coty, L'Eau Beuce by Lubin, Vivara Silver Edition by Pucci, Kapsule by Karl Lagerfeld from Coty, Musc Botanique by Strange Invisible Perfumes (all in September); Amber Ylang-Ylang by Estée Lauder, Aveda Ancient Attar Pure-Fume Spirit, Armani Diamonds Intense, Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels: Oriental Brûlant, Chypre fatal and Gourmand Coquin, L'Occitane Jasmine Eau de Parfum, Isabella Imports Verde Bosco, Sweet Lime and Cedar Cologne by Jo Malone (all in October);  Vera Wang Look for men (November).

Judging from experience and seeing already some upcoming fragrances missing, you can bet there will be even more perfumes suddenly appearing out of the blue between now and the end of the year. Please note also that December is not covered in this WWD list and November only barely.

July 2008 Archive

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