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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

September 2008 Archive

Page 4 of 4  •  1 2 3 4

September 23, 2008

Lush Flower Market, Ginger, Icon (2008): Retro Re-Editions {New Perfumes}

Retro-Lush.jpgLush have issued or rather re-issued three discontinued perfumes from their archives in their collection of back-by-popular-demand products called Retro Lush. It comprises Flower Market Perfume, inspired by Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady, Ginger Perfume and Icon Perfume, evocative of a "Venetian Palazzo covered in crushed velvet and gold-framed-art" and which pays homage to the spirit of Byron.

The Flower Market composition centering on carnation sounds particularly lovely. You have to love the story,

"If you know LUSH well, you'll know that founder Mark Constantine's favorite movie star in the whole universe is Audrey Hepburn. We even opened a shop in Covent Garden, London, where she appeared in My Fair Lady when Covent Garden was still a flower market. Mark created this fragrance for that vision of Audrey Hepburn; it's an unashamedly old-fashioned floral with carnations, ylang ylang and violets. No synthetic designer nonsense here, just a long lasting, lovely perfume."

So lovely it sounds that it is currently out of stock on their site. All the products in the Retro Lush collection are only available online by the way...

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Icon-Lush.jpg
Ginger-Retro-Lush.jpg

Continue reading "Lush Flower Market, Ginger, Icon (2008): Retro Re-Editions {New Perfumes}" »

September 24, 2008

Gucci by Gucci pour Homme TV Commercial with James Franco {Perfume Images & Adverts}

James-Dean-Poster.jpgThis is my favorite masculine ad so far. When Dior Sport pour Homme and Guerlain Homme are trying to capture your attention these days on the airwaves and the street even, and do by the way, but lack a little something, like a real presence, this ad for Gucci by Gucci pour Homme with actor James Franco is able to deliver a concentrate of masculinity.

This must be the first time I pay closer attention to Franco: he is charming, sexy and I realized, looks like James Dean, to whom he is made to resemble even more with his moody, brooding pose. Ah yes, he also bears the same first name. Discovery of the day.


Continue reading "Gucci by Gucci pour Homme TV Commercial with James Franco {Perfume Images & Adverts}" »

L'Occitane Notre Flore Le Jasmin - Jasmine (2008) {New Perfume}

Jasmine-Notre-Flore-3.jpgNext month L'Occitane will add a newcomer to their select collection of fragrances titled Notre Flore (Our Flora) dedicated to praising the olfactory notes of the Mediterranean world. This time Le Jasmin - Jasmine makes its entrance with a composition centering on Jasminum Grandiflorum from Egypt.

From the press release,

"The wind rose guided sailors through the Mediterranean to explore new
lands. Each land had its own unique scent that would drift out to sea and
announce its close presence. After the scents of Iris from Italy, Myrtle from
Corsica
, Neroli from Tunisia, and Cedar from Morocco, the winds now carry
us to the land of Egypt, the birthplace of perfumery. Egypt's presence is
announced by the sensual, intense scent of a white and delicate
flower closely connected with the greatest queens of Egypt: Jasmine
"...

Jasmine-Occitane-Purse-Spray copy.jpg

Continue reading "L'Occitane Notre Flore Le Jasmin - Jasmine (2008) {New Perfume}" »

September 25, 2008

By Kilian Prelude To Love, Invitation (2008): Citruses & Preciousness {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}

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Prelude To Love, Invitation is the seventh fragrance under the label By Kilian and part of their collection titled L'Oeuvre Noire (The Black Masterpiece). It was composed by perfumer Calice Becker who signs here her fifth contribution to the line (See TSS's reviews of Love, Beyond Love). She is also the author of well-known fragrances marketed to the mainstream such as J'Adore by Dior and Beyond Paradise by Estée Lauder.

Perfumery-wise the latest By Kilian appears to be a blend in tune with this year's interest for hesperidic compositions, even flirting with the genre of the Eau de Cologne, but almost more as a passing quote than as a main focus. Like for other By Kilian fragrances, literary references are key and shape in this case the personality of this scent inspired by an excerpt from a poem by Arthur Rimbaud, Bonne pensée du matin (good thought of the morning).

The perfume is best understood "read" together with the poem as it does not seem to take it as pretext for a further flight of fancy. Instead, a sense of faithfulness and interpretative effort appears to animate the composition, even possibly dictating its duration. How could a perfume be of epic-recitation length as in a cycle of retelling that lasts for 24 hours when it wishes to recreate the essence of the atmosphere conveyed by a poem, not even the whole poem at that, but a few verses that speak to its creators?...

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Continue reading "By Kilian Prelude To Love, Invitation (2008): Citruses & Preciousness {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}" »

September 26, 2008

Notes on Lavender in Eaux de Cologne & Further Thoughts on By Kilian Prelude To Love {Scented Thoughts}

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Lavandin Abrialis

Reviewing By Kilian Prelude To Love yesterday, I puzzled over the question of why this young and exclusive niche perfume house had decided to compose a bold citrus-y fragrance, quite literally plugging into a group of notes that from a certain perspective can smell a bit plain. Or perhaps I would not have asked myself this question had the jus smelled different.

The next puzzle I have had in mind is why they had decided to take on the added challenge of doing not only a citrus-y perfume but also do it in a rather minimalist, even straightforward style? It seems to compound the difficulty of attempting to uplift the lemons and mandarins from the level of the mundane. Indeed, the resulting impression makes you perceive the difference existing between metaphorically expensive and literally expensive...

Lavandula-Vera.jpg                                                            Lavandula Vera

Continue reading "Notes on Lavender in Eaux de Cologne & Further Thoughts on By Kilian Prelude To Love {Scented Thoughts} " »

Paris Hilton Fairy Dust (2008): They Love To Hate Her {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

Fairie-Dust.jpgParlux Fragrances know about the media-attention capital Paris Hilton possesses and that's the main point,

"Katz takes a wide-gauge view of the Hilton business. To him, a fragrance launch is a process of bringing news to the Hilton customer. Whether it results in the sales of the new fragrance or stimulates sales of an earlier scent is of little consequence. The object is to energize the customer base and whet its appetite."...

Continue reading "Paris Hilton Fairy Dust (2008): They Love To Hate Her {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}" »

Christian Lacroix C'est La Fête Patchouli (2008) {New Perfume}

LACROIX-patchouli.jpgThis fall Christian Lacroix is releasing a new woodsy-floral flanker to their juvenile fruity-floral C'est La Fête introduced last year. It is called C'est La Fête Patchouli.The flacon is colored in plum this time, a very fashionable tint this autumn.

Citrusy top notes are followed by Clair Jasmin and heliotrope before ending on woody accords around patchouli.

A 50 ml eau de parfum is priced at 43 Euros and a 100 ml one at 54 Euros.
Tel: 01 63 77 00 00

Via
Joyce.fr


Teo Cabanel Méloé Eau Fraîche (2008) {New Perfume}

meloe_cabanel.jpgTeo Cabanel launched a new and fourth fragrance called Méloé Eau Fraîche. Described as an "Epicurian symphony" it offers light, green and fruity notes. It was composed by in-house perfumer Jean-François Latty.

Notes are initially fresh and citrusy with bergamot, mandarin, lemon, basil. The citrus fruits linger on seguing into a floral bouquet of neroli, orange blossom, jasmine and a touch of nutmeg. Deeper base notes arise with musk, amber and a hint of woods.

The tag line is "Méloé: the modern woman in you".

Via Lianne Tio Parfums


September 28, 2008

Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008) {Perfume Review}


Caron-Lavandes.jpg


Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (The Most Beautiful Lavenders by Caron) was announced in 2008 as an unisex Eau-de-Cologne iteration of the house of Caron's famous masculine scent Pour Un Homme (For a Man). As if to make the genealogical link explicit, it takes as a name the tag line that used to be inscribed on the labels of the bottles of Pour Un Homme (see the 1934 advertisement below).

Pour Un Homme is reputed for its characteristic aromatic freshness combining with a delicate sustained sweetness. It is a scent that manages to balance out these two facets without one overshadowing the other. Thanks to the subtle dosage of vanilla and amber, the lavender in Pour Un Homme seems to have been hand-picked as is from a dry windy hill as a representative of the sweetest varietal of the flower without ever feeling artful...

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Continue reading "Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008) {Perfume Review}" »

Boots Resurrects Girard Perfume House Nearly A Century Later {Fragrance News}

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Columbia Poppy by Girard & Cie from Ragoarts


Boots Pharmacy chain has become interested in the archives of an old British perfume house from the turn of the 20th century named Girard & Cie and decided to resurrect the brand. They have relaunched two fragrances from the 1920s as well as taken the opportunity to introduce three new scents under the same historic label. Girard & Cie, sometimes with a Mme before its name originally opened a shop in London in Regent Street...
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The new Bouquet d'Orient by Girard

Continue reading "Boots Resurrects Girard Perfume House Nearly A Century Later {Fragrance News}" »

Plaisirs de Parfums: New Book (2008) {Fragrant Reading}


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The Editions Paja will publish a new book on perfume in October-November 2008 authored by Béatrice Boissière under the artistic direction of Coco Tassel. It is entitled Plaisirs de Parfums (Pleasures of Perfumes) and proposes to retrace a world history of fragrances since the 19th century with attention devoted to the compositions of fragrances and anecdotes on the milieu of perfumers. Long-lost fragrances are also not forgotten...

Continue reading "Plaisirs de Parfums: New Book (2008) {Fragrant Reading}" »

Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge (2008): The Scent of Thriving Venice {New Perfume}


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Eau d'Italie is preparing to launch a new perfume with a richly evocative name, Baume du Doge. It is inspired by the vision of a past trading and thriving Venice seen as a crossroads of civilizational and material influences,

"Roots, barks, seeds, pistils, flowers, rhizomes and resins took hold of the local
taste, flanking and often blending with local produce. Thus myrrh and
frankincense, saffron and clove, cardamom and vanilla met sweet oranges, sharp
bergamots and wild fennel in a rich and warm fusion, the use of which ranged
from medicine to perfumery, often at the same time... 

Continue reading "Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge (2008): The Scent of Thriving Venice {New Perfume}" »

September 29, 2008

New Official Serge Lutens Site {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}


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Fragrance aficionados will be delighted to learn that Serge Lutens has opened a new official site for the brand at http://www.sergelutens.com. It showcases a number of interesting, never-seen-before pictures, quotes, a short expressionist film that was selected for the Cannes festival in 1974, and last but not least a reorganization of the Lutens catalog of perfumes into three categories: flacons de table (the bell-jars); flacons beiges (the eaux de parfum); flacons noirs (the eaux de parfum haute concentration). The latter perfumes were thought by Serge Lutens himself to perform best at a higher concentration. The Collection Beige and Collection Noire in particular structure this universe as they offer the color theme for the new place...

Continue reading "New Official Serge Lutens Site {Fragrance News} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}" »

September 30, 2008

Paris Hilton Fairy Dust Ad: Pixie Trail {Perfume Images & Adverts}



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A little dose of fairy-tale does not hurt in times of recession as someone was telling me off the record. Paris Hilton has thus turned into the celebrity version of a sweet Tinker Bell to promote her new fragrance Fairy Dust; she seems to have left the branch of the flacon of the latest Van Cleef & Arpels Féérie who were also inspired by the magical world of Disney's pixies this fall 2008. Meanwhile Lolita Lempicka is reactivating a scintillating version of the little mermaid franchise with Fleur de Corail...

Continue reading "Paris Hilton Fairy Dust Ad: Pixie Trail {Perfume Images & Adverts}" »

September 2008 Archive

Page 4 of 4  •  1 2 3 4

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Latest Comments

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

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monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

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Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

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Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

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karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

abdellab mahmoudi on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : bonsoir c'est vrai que c'est un parfum à la fois doux et ...

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