|
|
October 2008 Archive
Page 1 of 5 • 1 2 3 4 5
 1931 advert for Un Air Embaumé by Rigaud from Memory Pub Smelling some recent releases in the past few days, one of them being Lyric by Amouage, it has struck me how, precisely, perfumes might have lost their lyrical, limpid and aerial quality and that this is the reason why artistic director Christopher Chong, an opera singer by training, might have wanted to recapture that quality with both the Jubilation (2007) and Lyric (2008) duos. These fragrances do make me think of the opera, but do they make me feel that they are like a voice that soar with longing in the air and makes an opera house come alive or even riotous as in the olden days? Not necessarily. In the case of Jubilation for Women I readily think of a sumptuous stately marble and golden staircase strewn with ladies in evening attires making their way to the deep velvety reds of their private boxes; in fact the image that superposes itself on the impression of the scent is that of an advert from the beginning of the 20th century depicting such a scene for the once wildly popular Un Air Embaumé (Balmy Air) by Rigaud. In the case of Lyric for Women, I also think of the ruby reds of the opera house but more also of a fine dinner by candlelight taken after the performance, a little Dame-aux-Camélias like. Somehow, the first perfume by Amouage, Jubilation, seems to allude to the anticipatory moments of emotion prior to going to listen to the opera. Somehow, the second fragrance, Lyric, makes me think of a night after the opera, of a meal taken à médianoche with its hedonistic hints of wine, roses, and something palatable like chocolate and vanilla. Lyric is billed as a floral oriental and the rose is its major floral note, but it seems to my nose to contain the olfactory allusions of a gourmand oriental as well, like so many other perfumes nowadays. It is even more subtle than that; it is not really gourmand, it is gourmand by allusion as the oriental notes have been worked in such a way as to be on hanging on the cliff of a gentle precipice called ganache...
Continue reading "Perfumes That Sing Vs. Perfumes That Eat: Rooting for the Return of the Aerial in Perfumery {Scented Thoughts}" »
 Last year, L'Artisan Parfumeur started a collaboration with British fashion brand Burberry working in particular with artistic director Christopher Bailey to release a series of four-seasons candles. L'Artisan have lately been engaged in a number of co-branding ventures, bringing their know-how and good reputation to similarly finely reputed brands interested in developing perfumes. The first one in the collection was Burberry Hearth introduced in the fall of 2007 which was inspired by the autumnal atmosphere of the English countryside with its scents of fall leaves and forest-y humus, which all sound very appealing this October 2008...
Continue reading "L'Artisan Parfumeur Burberry Crocus (2008) {New Fragrance - Candle}" »
 Britney Spears at the MTV Awards in Los Angeles in September 2008
The embryo of a news has started circulating whereby we learn that Britney Spears will release a new scent on December 2, 2008 called Hidden Fantasy to coincide with the release of her album Circus. According to Celebrity Wonder, an Elizabeth Arden insider revealed it features notes of cherry and vanilla and that the bottle is the same as the two previous Fantasy fragrances but colored red this time.
 You may have followed the news with us regarding the upcoming launch of I Am King by Sean John, which comes with a message. Here is a sneak peek at the advert for the fragrance that will appear in national books from December 2008. From the press release, "Sean John Fragrances introduces "I Am King," the newest men's fragrance
from Sean "Diddy" Combs. A decadent and sensual scent for the power
players of the world - "I Am King" is designed to inspire those who
dream big and want to live large - the ultimate, empowering fragrance
for today's modern man.
Available at Macy's nationwide in December"
 An article in the American Chronicle discusses the issue of allergic reactions to fragrances, based on one illustrative case, and compares perfumes' toxicity to that of second-hand cigarette smoke. There is just one reference used: Lessenger, JE. "Occupational acute anaphylactic reaction to assault by
perfume spray in the face." The Journal of the American Board of Family
Practice...
Continue reading "For Some Wearing Fragrances Is A Criminal Act {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
 As previously announced, Baume du Doge is the latest creation by niche perfumery Eau d'Italie, a brand which continues to show consistent interest in capturing the distinctive atmospheres of the Italian regional landscape and history (see our reviews of Rose Paestum, Sienne L'Hiver, Bois d'Ombrie, Magnolia Romana). The composition is by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who is able to go on collaborating with Eau d'Italie thanks to his flexible appointment as the new resident-perfumer for L'Artisan Parfumeur. This time the source of olfactory inspiration is the merchant past of Venice, a city seen as a crossroad of civilizations where spices from the East came to mingle with the indigenous agrumes of the Italian peninsula. "Slowly making their way from India, Persia or China on the back of mules and
woolly Bactrian camels, then aboard daring merchant ships, a world of spices
found its way to Venice, their names as exotic as the languages spoken by their
traders.
Roots, barks, seeds, pistils, flowers, rhizomes and resins took hold of the local
taste, flanking and often blending with local produce. Thus myrrh and
frankincense, saffron and clove, cardamom and vanilla met sweet oranges, sharp
bergamots and wild fennel in a rich and warm fusion, the use of which ranged
from medicine to perfumery, often at the same time."
The wish to go back to a time when the line between a medicine and a perfume was thin is further emphasized by the beautiful name of the fragrance, Baume du Doge, which sounds like a wound-healing balm both for the body and soul. We are invited to imagine a recipe favored by one of the 120 doges that crossed history and perhaps passed on as a secret a balm imbued with the curative properties that paradoxically one always wants to ascribe to those very persons that can issue a death or torture warrant and take your lives, or at least conspire towards your demise; historian Marc Bloch studied this mystical power in Les Rois Thaumaturges. The Doge of Venice, whose title derives from the Latin Dux (Duke) remained a merchant as his salary was less than substantial and so, as in the case of the Bourreau de Paris who could also be a little bit of a cosmetician-pharmacist, he might have concocted a recipe on the side based on his experience of Oriental ingredients, sold to secure additional earnings ...  Doge Leonardo Loredan (1436-1521) by Bellini
Continue reading "Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge (2008): Renaissance Italy In A Contemporary Style {Perfume Review & Musings}" »
 Cocoa-colored Balenciaga dress by Irving Penn, 1950
The fashion house of Balenciaga which received a new impulse under the stewardship of its creative director Nicolas Ghesquière now feels the need to reach out to a broader audience than its upscale credo permits. For doing so they will turn to a well-tested venue, perfume, the most accessible form of luxury after makeup, Champagne, foie gras and designer Evian, they usually don't say. The revival of their fragrance brand will take place under the aegis of Coty Prestige..
Continue reading "Balenciaga To Revive Perfume Brand {Fragrance News}" »
 You can now contemplate Britney Spears in her new, freshly-minted ad for her upcoming fragrance Hidden Fantasy to be launched in December 2008, as previously announced. It was taken a week or so ago. The main theme is red, red, red and the fantasy seems to be to spend a fall vacation on planet Mars observing leaves turning from red to hopeful green... 
Continue reading "Britney Spears Hidden Fantasy: The Ad {Perfume Images & Advert} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »
Dans Tes Bras by Maurice Roucel for Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums
The Skinny:
Perfumer: Maurice Roucel
Artistic Director: Frédéric Malle
Gender label: Sexless
Notes: bergamot, clove, violet, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, salicylates, incense, Cashmeran, heliotrope, white musk.
Characteristics: nostalgic and futuristic; a violet perfume looking both towards the past and the future, attempting to decipher the unknown, the yet-to-be-smelled.
Personality: a beautiful refined and subtle skin scent
Wearability: very easy
Price point: $$$: entirely worth it
Bottle: Editions de Parfums use a standard flacon in two sizes which resembles a modern, round inkwell; simple and elegant.
Perfumes discussed: Après L'Ondée (inspired by); Jicky
The Review:
Violets for the FutureDans Tes Bras, the latest creation by Editions de Parfums a French perfume house specializing in fragrances with a more demanding than average sense of authorship, is at its most immediate level a perfume showcasing peppery, powdery and leathery violets. In a more sophisticated fashion, the perfume manages to convey the impression that it owes its very existence to the progresses of fragrance chemistry and more particularly the presence of an unnatural-smelling aromachemical component that comes across as beautifully synthetic without losing its power of poetic evocation. The sensation of smelling an odd olfactory intruder remains a bit vague and cold yet harmonious like the atmosphere of a modern art exhibition set in an ancient 19th century factory made of concrete and steel both ancient and very current, playing up contrasts and welding them at the same time...
Continue reading "Editions de Parfums Dans Tes Bras (2008): Futuristic-Nostalgic Violets {Perfume Review & Musings}" »
 Will QVC be forgiven by the numerous Tova signature scent fans who have abundantly complained about its cheapened reformulation on this site? This is the question one can ask around the new Ambre d'Oro, Tova's fifth fragrance to date, due to launch in November 2008. Tova Ambre d'Oro (Gold Amber) is inspired by scents indigenous to Italy and is described as a "modern musky-floral" playing as is usual for Tova the sexy feminine musky card...
Continue reading "Tova Ambre d'Oro (2008) {New Perfume}" »
October 2008 Archive
Page 1 of 5 • 1 2 3 4 5
|
Anonymous on
Mark Ecko To Launch Men's Fragrance in 2009 {Fragrance News}
: Parlux is growing sales and profits. It may be time to buy ...
Tim Kelly on
Tony Sirico Paolo Per Uomo (2008): The Sopranos' Touch {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Perfume Ads}
: Will Tony Sirico be in Los Angeles soon promoting his new cologne? ...
Ryan Saghian on
25th Anniversary of Tova Signature Fragrance {Perfume News}
: hi marie-helen i was new to tova, and i really liked it, ...
Mayka Beloso on
New Perfume: Alma by Rosario Flores
: Hi!!! I want to buy Rosario Flores perfume and body milk. Please, ...
glen on
Jennifer Lopez Deseo for Men (2008) {New Fragrance}
: love the dry down, smells like one of the scents from Soarin' ...
ScentScelf on
Scented Quote / Anecdote of the Day about Michelle Obama, from Dylan McAfee:
: Or it could be hand lotion...L'Occitane and BBW offer Cherry Blossom cremes, ...
Veronica on
Index of New Perfumes 2006, 2007, 2008; New Fragrances in Chronological Order {New Perfumes}
: Last year for Christmas I got Bath & Body Warm Vanilla Sugar ...
LuLuBelle on
New (Bedding) Perfume: Eau de Lit by Guerlain
: Where can you buy Eau de lit?? Only in France?? I was ...
Linda O on
Le De by Givenchy (1957-2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}
: I am delighted to hear that "le De" is in production again. ...
Patricia on
Perfume Review & Musings: Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur
: I found the bottle in a guest bathroom while visiting a friend. ...
Kathy Zito on
Tony Sirico Paolo Per Uomo (2008): The Sopranos' Touch {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Perfume Ads}
: I would like to now if I can purchase Tony Sirico"s New ...
Kristine on
Index of New Perfumes 2006, 2007, 2008; New Fragrances in Chronological Order {New Perfumes}
: Are there any fragrances remotely close to the Fredericks of Hollywood perfume?
Jo on
Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers}
: I am looking for C & E's Vetiver for my HoneyMan for ...
HairyMan on
Perfume History & Facts: Fragrances Inspired by our Saliva, Tears, and Sweat.
: Not bad... Not bad.
Isabel Ried on
Index of New Perfumes 2006, 2007, 2008; New Fragrances in Chronological Order {New Perfumes}
: Does anybody know where I can find Ralph's Lauren Polo Blue for ...
- Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review}
- Penhaligon's LP No. 9 Men & Women Are Back (2008) {New Perfumes}
- Atypical Research on Air Fresheners {Fragrant Reading}
- Obituary: Perfumer Laurent Bruyere Passed Away Today
- Prince Sued for Not Participating in Promotion of 3121 {The 5th Sense in the News}
- Ormonde Jayne Zizan (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
- Lalique Museum to Open in 2010 at Wingen-sur-Moder {Fragrance News}
- Guerlain L'Instant Magic Re-Visited (2008) {New Perfume}
- Perfume & Beauty Coupons & Deals {Shopping Tips}
- Agraria Villa Potpourri Boxes: For Architecture & Scent Aficionados {Fragrant Shopping}
- I Profumi Di Firenze Essendo (2006): Another Homage (A Lost One) to Patrick Suskind {Perfume History & Facts}
- Hors La Monde Lady Shiloh (2008) {New Fragrance}
- Annick Goutal Collection Noel: Repackaging, New Candles, Home Sprays {New Perfumes}
- Yves Rocher Reedition Parfum Antartic, Aztec, Trimaran (2008) {New Perfumes} {Men's Cologne}
- Bath & Body Works Bath Cup Cakes {Bath & Body - New}
- Scented Quote / Anecdote of the Day about Michelle Obama, from Dylan McAfee:
- Precious Pure-Parfums Trend, Fall-Winter 2008 {Trend Alert} {New Perfumes}
- Avon Bond Girl 007 (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- Mark Ecko To Launch Men's Fragrance in 2009 {Fragrance News}
- Perfumers Choice Awards Winners & Party Pictures {Fragrance News} {Perfume Images & Adverts}
- Scented Quote of the Day, from Sean "Diddy" Combs:
- Boots Hug for Her & Hug for Him (2008) {New Perfumes}
- Penhaligon's Elixir (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
- Carol's Daughter 1st Celebrity Perfume: Mary J Blige My Life (2009) {New Perfume} {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- Comme des Garçons H&M (2008): Niche To Educate The Masses {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}
- My DNA Fragrance POTUS 1600 {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- Acqua Di Biella in Dresden & Frankfurt: The Perfume Window-Display Project {Perfume Images & Adverts} {Fragrance Decoration}
- Dominique Ropion Awarded 2008 International Cosmetic Valley Prize - Jean-Paul Guerlain Awarded a Prix d'Honneur {Fragrance News}
- Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Louis XV, Marquise de Pompadour (2008) {New Perfumes} {Historical Fragrances}
- The Perfume Window-Display Project - Call for Photos {Ask Marie-Helene}
- Monica Bellucci Plays Daughter of Eve for Dior Hypnotic Poison Ad {Perfume Images & Adverts - New}
- Interview with David Pybus around Scents of Time: Invitation To Smell Like Divine Divas {Fragrance Interview}
- Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Extract - Shiro Kuramata Limited-Edition (2008) {New Perfume} {Luxury Fragrance}
- Fashion Exhibition on the Second Empire, 1852-1870: Sous L'Empire des Crinolines {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
- Salvatore Ferragamo F pour Homme Black (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
- Perfume Ad with Nicole Kidman for Chanel Eau Premiere {Perfume Images & Adverts - New}
- 4 HTF Serge Lutens Non-Export Scents Now Available in the US {Shopping Tip - Deal}
- New Perfume Website for Frapin {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
- Acqua Di Parma Red, Yellow, Black & White Candles {Home Fragrance} {New Perfumes}
- Carol's Daughter Pearls, Sotto, Reminisce (2008) {New Perfumes}
- Lavanila Vanilla Spice (2008) {New Fragrance}
- US Female Consumers Prefer to Spend on Well-Tested Perfumes {Fragrance News}
- Rafael Nadal to be Face of New Lanvin Men's Scent {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
All original content and translations herein copyright © 2006. All rights reserved; reproduction requires the author’s prior written consent. You are however welcome to provide a link back to the posts on this site as long as you explicitly mention their authorship, recognize the original source of the information you give, and acknowledge the site of origin.
Powered by Movable Type 4.12
|
Digg This
Stumble
Facebook
Del.icio.us
