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The Scented Salamander Blog A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly. "Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark" Latest Fragrance Reviews Dior Escale à Parati Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue Ferragamo Signorina Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés Jo Malone Plum Blossom Madonna Truth or Dare Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum
Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y. Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie Fragrance Essays Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes? Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes? Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s
Reviews of New Perfumes Diptyque Eau Rose Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Sisley Eau d'Ikar Mary Greenwell Plum Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Estée Lauder Wood Mystique Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Bottega Veneta EDP From the Archives Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.
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February 2010 Archive
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(Untitled) by Maison Martin Margiela is the debut perfume of a fashion label known for its creativity. If you think that an interesting mind, that of designer Martin Margiela, can apply itself to an unfamiliar medium and still be able to offer the same kind of aesthetic rewards, thanks to its sense of criticism but without being a perfumer in the technical sense of the term, then you would expect the first perfume by Martin Margiela to be interesting. The conceptual apparatus surrounding the scent is undoubtedly signed Margiela. The non-name of the perfume to start with, is consistent with the vision of the house founder, "Its [the perfume's] ambiguous title sits in harmony with the brand's philosophy of collective work, anonymity and free interpretation, allowing the scent to hold different meanings for different people. "...
Continue reading "Maison Martin Margiela Line 3 (Untitled) (2010): Dark Galbanum & Dirty Green Musk {Perfume Review}" »
 Celine Dion, who strikes you as someone who could appeal to very different constituencies for different reasons - there is a counter-cultural streak in her despite her classic voice-based diva popularity (unconventional beauty, much older husband-mentor, unusual stage-kid past...) - proposes to draw a consensus on style with her new perfume called Simply Chic...
Continue reading "Celine Dion Simply Chic (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrances}" »
 Image via Wikipedia Here is an excerpt from Ode to the Nightingale by John Keats which was written in the month of May 1819. In it, as the poet imagines his vision dimming with the passing of daylight, his sense of smell becomes all the more perceptive of the invisible presence of fruit and flora. The feeble light which comes to him is gloomy-green and smells of soft breezy mosses. " tender is the night,
And
haply the Queen-Moon is on her throne,
Cluster'd around by all her
starry Fays;
But here there is no light,
Save what from heaven
is with the breezes blown
Through verdurous glooms and winding mossy ways."...
Continue reading "Scented Quote of the Day, from John Keats:" »
 Dita von Teese, Jean
Paul Gaultier, Naomie Campbell and Guest attend the Fashion Dinner for
AIDS at the Pavillon d'Armenonville on January 28, 2010 in Paris,
France.
Fashion Dinner for AIDS - Sidaction
We get some quick thoughts about the sometimes symbiotic at other times more problematic relationship existing between fashion, fragrance and the new celebrity culture.
"But I can't help wondering whether
any of this would be possible without Gaultier's hugely successful
fragrances...
Continue reading "Quick Thoughts on Fashion, Perfume and Celebs by Jean Paul Gaultier: It's All Linked {Fashion Notes} " »
 Secrets de Rose (Rose Secrets) is the 16th rose composition by Les Parfums
de Rosine which specialize in sculpturing the different facets and
interpretations of the queen of flowers. It was created in 2009 based on particular qualities of natural rose and labdanum ingredients and launched this January-February 2010. This time, one is offered a dark-rose
interpretation, the scent of " a rose
dressed in black,' which was made to feel more shadowy thanks to notes
of prune, licorice, amber resin and labdanum while being spiced up with
saffron, ylang and cumin.
It is also, as it turns out, what l would like to term an
affective patrimonial perfume, a
composition destined to noses who can appreciate the continuities
of the living history of perfume, this olfactory historiography found
throughout contemporary compositions rather than in the pages of history books...
Continue reading "Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose (2010): Dinner with Chamade, with Notes on Patrimonial Perfumes {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Lancôme will release a new perfume called Trésor in Love at the end of March 2010 which is characterized as a free interpretative exercise on the original Trésor launched in 1990 and created by Sophia Grojsman. It was a landmark perfume both in terms of composition and reception. The new jus was composed by perfumers Dominique Ropion and Véronique Nyberg...
Continue reading "Lancome Tresor in Love (2010) {New Perfume}" »
  {A fragrance review of Chanel Eau Tendre was added to the blog!} This spring, Chanel will launch a new, more delicately-scented flanker to the original Chance (2003) called Chance Eau tendre (Chance Tender Eau). The new perfume is described as a fruity and floral interpretation of Chance Eau de Parfum...
Continue reading "Chanel Chance Eau Tendre (2010) {New Perfume}" »
 It is with pleasure that I am able to report that independent Italian perfumer Laura Tonatto has now a new website which functions as an international e-commerce. It was until recently difficult to come by her fragrances unless you were in Rome or Turin.  To make the news even more delightful, I see that the lovely violet composition that is E Duse, a perfume which is a homage paid to the great actress Eleonora Duse (1858-1924) is back in her catalog. One of Tonatto's specializations which is conducted through her workshop Naso e Parnaso is historical interpretative work in compositions inspired by famous historical figures or even works of art. In 2005, for example, she created a perfume based on the painting The Lute Player by Caravaggio for the Hermitage Museum...
Continue reading "Laura Tonatto Notte a Taif (2010) {New Perfume} E Duse is Back & New e-Commerce {Fragrance News}" »
 Jeanne can offer a beautiful, simple connotation as a first name. It is the feminine pendant of "Jean" which like Pierre and Paul are de facto household given names in (Christian) Europe. Jeanne is the name of historical French heroine, Jeanne d'Arc, and evokes for those who have seen the masterpiece, the beautiful cinematography of Dreyer's Protestant-looking 1927 imagery about the saint. It is also the first name in translation of Jane Austen. It is furthermore, to go back to more immediate connections, the first name of couturière Jeanne Lanvin after which the perfume is named and to whom it pays homage in an updated yet faithful mode... 
Continue reading "Lanvin Jeanne (2008) and Jeanne La Rose (2010): Part 1 - The Scent of High Fashion, Suavissime Soap and Back {Perfume Reviews} {New Fragrance} " »
 18th century Muscadins (from "muschardin", a pastille perfumed with musk) are pre-dandy types who were known for their predilection for perfume The systematic quest for artificial musk started some 130 years sooner than is usually thought of when most introductions to synthetic musks start with a mention of 19th century Musk Baur. We entered the modern age of man-made musk odorants which was going to be so prolific and fashionable at recurring periods of history as early as the mid-18th century, in 1758 to be specific according to Kopp, when German chemist Andreas Sigismund Margraff (1709-1782) managed to create a musk-smelling material by treating the oil distilled from natural resinous fossilized amber ( huile de succin) with nitric acid. As reported by several works on chemistry, it had been known for a long time that the action of nitric acid on some hydrocarbons could produce a musky aroma but this moment is recorded as a landmark and Margraff himself baptized the new substance which offered a strong musky smell and was soluble in alcohol, "artificial musk"...  A 1973 ad for Macho Musk Oil in the midst of the musk-oil craze of the 1970s
Continue reading "Valentine's Day 2010: Exploring Musk Oils - Part 1 {Scented Thoughts} {Perfume List}" »
 There have been on and off reports about mounting intolerance towards perfume-wearing in public spaces, a phenomenon which seems more typical of the USA and particularly acute in Canada. Either industrialists will have to improve fragrance formulae to make them asthma-proof or protocols of civility will need to be established to avoid the situation encountered by a woman wearing Opium in Saskatoon who got ousted from her commute bus. And consider this, now transit buses will be defined as " scent-free workplaces,"...
Continue reading "In Canada, Perfume Intolerance Mounts in Public Spaces, Honolulu Agrees and The Stinky Bus Trope in Pop Culture {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
 I previously reported about the new Burberry Sport duo. We got further details about the thinking process which took place behind the concepts for these two fragrances as well as received new images from the advertising campaign. This spring 2010, Burberry is hoping to awaken our sensitivities to sporty chic. Burberry Sport for Women and Men are meant to be the olfactory embodiments of the Burberry sport fashion line. Artistic Director Christopher Bailey said, "Sport is a natural extension of our identity. We really wanted to study the technical, functional and sportive aspects of the Burberry heritage while incorporating into it all of these elements, in a modern and innovative style." [My own translation from the French version]...
Continue reading "Burberry Sport pour Femme and pour Homme (2010): More News {New Perfumes}" »
 Kylie Minogue Couture was launched in 2009 and is the singer's fifth feminine fragrance. She more recently turned to masculine inspiration for a cologne called Inverse. I was asked to give my opinion on some scents for a magazine and so decided to write a full-fledged review on the blog of this one since I had enough notes and had not reviewed it in the past. Celebrity fragrances suffer from many preconceived opinions and stereotypes. They are easily targeted and ridiculed. Like those figures at the fair that you see kids throw little rice sacks at to make them tumble, celebs seem sometimes to be handsomely payed just to channel the pent-up frustrations and need for derivatives of the crowds and in the meantime avoid a social revolution. For this reason alone, their existence is justified and productive. People tend too often to view only the lucrative aspects of the celebrity-fragrance game but really think about the social coping mechanisms they help set. People can reaffirm their collective purported values by spitting on Paris Hilton and lavishing adulation on the nice celebs...which are??? Wait, let me pause to help clarify the fuzziness of the universe which is in dire need of some clear landmarks. I'll pick Tilda Swinton and her upcoming fragrance: she is not exactly nice but she is interesting at least. Oh no wait, there is Queen Latifah who is nice: you could really tell people wanted to love her fragrance in advance. Fortunately, her jus was up to snuff... 
Continue reading "Kylie Minogue Couture (2009): Jungle Musky Floral {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »
  Alexander McQueen with Annabelle Nielsen on October 15th, 2009 in LondonOMG -- Designer Alexander McQueen was found dead in his home in London on Thursday February 11th, 2010. He was only 40 years old. His death is reported as a suicide. His office said, 'It is a tragic loss. We are not making a comment at this time out of respect for the McQueen family.'...
Continue reading "Alexander McQueen RIP (1969-2010) - Updates {Fashion Notes}" »
 Hanae Mori will introduce a new perfume in May 2010 which will help point to the future of perfumery going in a very green direction and we do not mean the perfume notes. No.1 is a limited-edition fragrance which is part of a new collection entitled Eaux de Collection (lit. Collection Waters). Its defining characteristic is that perfumes created under this label are made "...using renewable energy sources and which will benefit Clean Air-Cool
Planet, an organization dedicated to combating global warming."...
Continue reading "Hanae Mori Eaux de Collection No.1 (2010): Sustainable Scents {New Perfume} {Green Products}" »
February 2010 Archive
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