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Siberian Barber no1 is an eau de cologne for men from the Russian perfume manufacturer Novaya Zarya (New Dawn), a venerable Russian institution that was created during the tsarist period, in 1864. The history of this entrepreneurial venture in capitalist tsarist Russia, set up initially by a French émigré, Henri Brocard, is one of initial tremendous business success at the European scale, then adaptation to new circumstances, i.e., the Communist regime, and, finally, of longevity at the threshhold of the 21st century. The business venture was initially founded as Brocard&Co; it first changed its name during the early Bolshevik period, changing it to "Soap and Perfumery Factory no 5" and then adopted its current name, Novaya Zarya, in 1922...
Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Siberian Barber no1 by Novaya Zarya" »
WWD has announced the creation of a new line of fragrances called Etat Libre d'Orange (Free State of Orange) which will be introduced in France in mid-September 2006. The name is an allusion to a former independent republic located in contemporary South Africa whence the founder of the new line, Etienne de Swardt, originates. The concept of the brand appears of striking irreverence and originality as well as conveys a philosophical flavor reminiscent of the movement of libertinage in 18th century France. According to de Swardt, the line is "an homage to olfactory freedom". The line even has a motto, "Le parfum est mort, vive le parfum" in reference to the ritualistic formula pronounced at the death of a king and proclaiming at the same time the inception of a new reign...
Continue reading "Fragrance News: Exciting New French Perfume Line to Debut in September, Etat Libre d'Orange" »
 The Italian fashion brand Prada is releasing a new perfume for men called Prada Pour Homme. The perfume is said to derive inspiration from four different families of fragrances......
Continue reading "Prada (Amber) Pour Homme/Prada Man by Prada {New Perfume}" »
 •A brief report in The Times of June 29 2006 on how some people in France are being professionally trained to smell sewage. ...Bad Week •A report on the invention of a revolutionary recording-device for smells in The Guardian of June 29 2006. Nothing Fishy about Smell-Recording Device
 There is a very enjoyable and interesting article on Jean-Claude Ellena in Libération of June 26 2006. We learn personal details about his life, his olfactory likes and dislikes, certain of his odd habits due to his hatred of galaxolide, the pervasive synthetic musk found in detergents these past 30 years. His daughter Céline is also quoted; she explains movingly how her father was not keen on seeing her become a perfumer due to the tremendous pressures of the job. A look at the reality of a perfumer's life behind all the glamour. Odeur Compositeur
 To celebrate the 10th anniversary of its Most Dynamisante Woman of the Year Award, Clarins has issued a limited edition of the wonderfully refreshing and sensual Eau Dynamisante. The flacon retains the same shape and color but is now decorated with a stylized white heart. It retails for 22.50 Pounds. Call 0800 036 3558 for stockist information. Source: British Vogue
 A 24 h access program to the online Fabulous Fragrances of the World has now been available for some time and I myself have used it. I think that it is worth it in the end, but bear in mind that the database is good but not overly extensive (about 5000 fragrances). For contrast see how the online Perfume Intelligence advertises a database of over 53 000 entries (shorter ones.) which also features rare and all-but-forgotten perfumes.
What you will find associated with each fragrance is a description, sometimes in the form of a short narrative, notes, style, astrological sign(s), promotional themes (American accent, Irish accent, French accent, pastoral feeling etc.) names of celebrities wearing it, the name(s) of its creator(s), sometimes the date of introduction. At times the information given is more historical, at other times it is more anecdotal. The database cultivates a popular style rather than an erudite one as can be shown by the references to astrology. Jan Moran and Michael Edwards will also signal to you whether a fragrance is discontinued or not. Jan Moran uses a pleasant style of writing. The database is rich but not exhaustive. I noted that the entire perfume line for each house is not necessarily covered systematically even for modern issues and that niche perfumes, in general, are less prominently featured. It thus appears that serendipity plays a role in the selection of perfumes covered by the database...
Continue reading "Perfume Database Review: Online Fabulous Fragrances of the World, 24 h Access Program" »
I have come accross what seems to be one of the cheapest sources for Fragonard perfumes in the US. Giving Gallery.com is offering a whole collection of Fragonard fragrances at rock-bottom prices. Eau Fantasque is available for $31.50 (only 4 left in stock), Eau du Bonheur for $37. 99, and Papa Chéri for $42. Although they carry an extensive line of the Fragonard fragrances, only the ones mentioned above seem to be currently in stock.
Everyday free shipping for $49 purchase. 5% off today's order, use code CP5 at checkout.
 Réminiscence released a new, so-called "musical perfume" this spring called Jammin. It is characterized as a green, woody, and floral fragrance. Its "suave" character is said to evoke the "softness and sensuality of fragrant evenings." Top notes are grapefruit, pink pepper, cardamom, and blackcurrant. Heart notes are cedar and jasmine. Base notes are musk, patchouli, vanilla, and Tonka. Réminiscence has also undertaken to launch its first ever publicity campaign which centers on their best-seller, Patchouli. You might be interested to know that Juliette Binoche wore Patchouli by Réminiscence during the shooting of the movie featuring the life of George Sand, Les Enfants du Siècle, to get into character as Sand is famously known to have been devoted to the scent of patchouli. A Réminiscence boutique has also opened on March 18 in London. Their perfume line comprises also Anjali (limited edition), Patchouli, Musc, Ambre (a trilogy of sensual perfumes based on these base notes), Eau de Rem, 2000 ans D'Amour, Rem, Réminiscence Homme, Patchouli Homme. Jammin retails for 75 Euros. More information and pics of the flacon can be found on the Réminiscence site. I have added a review of Jammin here. Source: Réminiscence Image source: Images de Parfums
 Cacharel is going to release a new women's fragrance called Noa Perle in October of 2006. It succeeds to Noa released in 1998 and Noa Fleur in 2003. The marketing aim of the new campaign is to reach those women who failed to be seduced by the previous Noa scents.The new fragrance purports to refer to a "more sensual brand of neo-romanticism." The perfume was created by Domitille Berthier and Olivier Polge. It is described as a sparkling composition developing around a voluptuous white peony note, spiced up with pink pepper and rendered fresh and tart by the addition of kumquat and orange blossom. As you may have already noticed, the combination of floral and peppery notes (pink pepper) is very much in vogue these days in women's perfumery.
It will retail in 30 ml, 50 ml, and 100 ml flacons for 34 Euros, 49 Euros, and 73 Euros respectively. Source: FashionMag.fr
The summer smells of asphalt, slowly wilting flowers and dust. It does not really smell of all these things. Perhaps, if I lied down really close to the earth it would. But I imagine it smells like that. Photo Mimi Froufrou
 Exclusive! The latest summer version of Angel for women is scheduled to launch in the States this summer. As of today, you can only purchase it on certain UK sites and find the occasional flacon on eBay. So here's a preview and a review of Innocent Summer Flash Eau Malicieuse (Mischievous Eau) by Thierry Mugler, the 2006 summer edition...
Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Innocent Summer Flash Eau Malicieuse by Thierry Mugler" »
Stella McCartney will issue a new binome of scents, Stella in Peony, an eau de toilette, and Stella in Amber, a solid perfume. The user is encouraged to layer the two and thusly modulate the intensity and nuances of the combination of scents. The two perfumes have been designed by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich, the creator of the original Stella in 2003. Peony and amber are two important notes found in the original scent. The eau de toilette in 25 ml, 50 ml, and 75 ml will retail respectively for 27, 37, and 47 Pounds. The solid perfume will retail for 23 Pounds. Stella in Two will initially launch exclusively at Selfridges in mid-August before rolling out nationwide.  Source: Cosmetics International Photos: The Moodie Report
 L'Artisan Parfumeur opened its third New York store on June 19 2006 on Madison Avenue and 82nd Street. A fourth New York store should open in the fall on the Upper West Side. A total of 7 New York stores are planned as well as 10 others accross in the USA in cities like San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Chicago. As the President of L'Artisan Parfumeur US François Duquesne stated, "We're reviving the tradition of a perfumery [as] a destination where you're able to visit a [fragrance] expert in your neighborhood." The two remaining stores in New York are located in SoHo and on the second floor of Henri Bendel. Source & photo: Women's Wear Daily
 This is part II of my review of my library of scents for the summer. It is more than probable that by the end of this summer I will have made new additions to this list of favorites, especially so since I have decided that perfumes were like movies, able to set a mood, an atmosphere and easily consumptible in succession in the space of a day. A good dry down should last longer than a film though. This is on the reception side. On the creative side, I have come to think that the best artistic analogy for perfumery is cuisine. In keeping this idea in mind I understand better why perfumes can be variations only of a core recipe idea, rather than unique works of art. At the same time, it may well be that perfumery experiences unique constraints and deals with a different material altogether. It will probably take decades to sort this out. The Cour de Cassation in France has recently decided that perfumes did not merit copyright protection and that authorship in perfumery was a shaky idea. I think that they reached this conclusion because they laid great emphasis on the traditional heritage of French perfumery, the idea that all this know-how was accumulated over the centuries and that it has become part of the texture of society. Therefore perfumes, like recipes, should be reproduced with variations in accordance with your taste and the raw materials at hand. The uniqueness of a scent may well lie in the search and the finding of uniquely harmonious proportions, the creation of a superior recipe to be appreciated by the finest of palates, and the quality of the material used. But, just like one's taste for food can be eclectic and is influenced by one's personal history, one may well love both simple tastes, even childish ones, and more complex ones. Since the mega hit that Angel was and still is and the development of gourmand scents or notes as a result, the association between food and perfumes has become closer. And now, oenologists like Ginestet create perfumes because they see the intimate parallel existing between wine and fragrance.
So after this excursus which may explain why one may want to taste different variations of the same type of food or perfume, here is my list:
Continue reading "Perfume List: My Favorite Summer Scents, Part II" »
 A new masculine fragrance by Burberry, Burberry London for Men will be launched in September 2006. It is meant to renew the traditional image of the English gentleman and Burberry sees its contemporary incarnation as being both charismatic and carefree. This ideal is perfectly embodied in their eyes by actor Ioan Gruffud who will represent the brand's image for the perfume. The scent is the male counterpart to the Burberry London for Women and is part of the house's efforts to celebrate its 150th anniversary.
The fragrance was created by Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan. Top notes are bergamot, black pepper, lavender, and cinnamon. Middle notes are mimosa, Porto wine, and leather. Base notes are tobacco leaves, guaiac wood, oakmoss, and opoponax. Flacons of 30 ml, 50 ml, and 100 ml will be available respectively for 44 Euros, 53 Euros, and 70 Euros. Source: FashionMag
"I advise women to switch perfumes. I find sad the type of woman who uses the same perfume all of her life, who, maybe because of her insecurities or lack of personality or taste does not try out other, different fragrances. The woman who appreciates perfume is the one who experiments, alternates, whose scent changes."
in Etiqueta Negra, August 20, 2002. (translated from the Spanish by Marie-Hélène Wagner.)
The latest fragrance by CSP is inspiring me my shortest perfume review ever: if you like lemon meringue, go for it. I can almost smell the eggs that the recipe requires in this concoction. Intensely gourmand, sweet, milky, lemoney, and highly concentrated. Despite the advertised freshness, it is essentially a low-pitched, dessert-like skin scent.
Notes are, Candied Lemon Peel, Brazilian Orange, Blackcurrant Syrup, Tahitian Vanilla, Pink Hibiscus, Sweet Rose Jam, Chocolate, Vanilla Cream, Sugared Condensed Milk.
Price is $49 for 50 ml or 1.6 oz. You can purchase it at Beauty Cafe and Sephora. Photo is from Beauty Cafe
I am delighted to announce that The Scented Salamander has joined Coutorture, a great online fashion community. "Coutorture gives fashion lovers news and commentary in one convenient location. Integrating fashion blogs, online magazines, and exclusive media content, all while promoting a community based on active participation, Coutorture is the new destination for online fashion." Picture: Le Corset by JeanLoup Sieff
Image source: www.poster.de
A Try Me Size of Voile D'Ambre is now available for purchase on the Yves Rocher USA website. Voile D'Ambre is the first scent to be made part of the more upscale fragrance collection by Yves Rocher, Secrets d'Essences, and until recently was only available in Europe. I have heard through the grapevine that the full size bottle might be introduced to the US market in the fall.
Continue reading "Shopping Tip: Try Me Size of Voile D'Ambre by Yves Rocher Available in the US" »
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