Monthly Archives from March 2006

Scented Quote of the Day Archive

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June 19, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day About Guerlain Bon Vieux Temps...


Gaetano-de-las-heras-1903-Parisian-Cafe.jpg
 
 Parisian Café by Gaetano de Las Heras, 1903

 

A conversation is "overheard" during the Belle Epoque in 1903 between two persons wearing Bon Vieux Temps by Guerlain. Note how the perfume was worn in an unisex fashion and the coquettry surrounding perfume-wearing.

"'What a delicious fragrance', my dear, said I, because she smelled of that delightful perfume Bon Vieux Temps that I recognized immediately, as I use it myself.

'Yes, yes, my own special mixture', she answered condescendingly...... 

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June 10, 2008

Interview with Serge Lutens & Jean Claude Ellena by Vogue {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Quotes of the Day}

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Two interviews with two major defining personalities of 20th and 21st century perfumery. Both are French yet their styles and sensibilities differ, some would say diametrally so. On this blog, we might have encouraged people to see a structural contrast between their visions.

Serge Lutens and Jean Claude Ellena answer questions on their art to Vogue, in French. We translate one meaningful quote from each Q & A as our Scented Quote(s) of the Day.

Interview with Serge Lutens 

"Comment peut-on savoir si un parfum va durer dans le temps ?
C’est le public qui choisit. Ce qui lui résiste accède à la reconnaissance. Le parfum peut, s’il a des adeptes – je devrais dire des « timbrés » - accéder à quelque chose de plus ou moins légendaire."

"How can one know that a perfume will be enduringly popular?

- It is the public that chooses. What continues to have its favor comes to be recognized. Perfume can, if it has fans - I should say "addicts" - become more or less of a legend.".....

 

 

Hermessences-Vogue.jpg

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April 28, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day from Ashton Kutcher:

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Here are some words of wisdom from actor Ashton Kutcher about perfume-wearing etiquette on his "woman", i.e., Demi Moore. Take it from a guy:

"If I can smell the perfume and we are not making out, then she is wearing too much. With a lot of things in life, more is better. But perfume does not apply.".....

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April 16, 2008

The Perfume of the Belle Epoque: A Spectacle Dedicated to Olfaction {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} Scented Quote of the Day from Theodore Child:

 
 

Harpers-Renouart-Absinthe-Café.jpg

 

 

On April 19, 2008, at 20: 30 pm a show entitled Il Profumo della Belle Epoque will take place in Rome, Italy. It is dedicated to recapturing the olfactory atmosphere of the Belle Epoque as experienced by spectators sitting in the atmosphere of a Parisian café in the 1890s, witnessing the boulevardiers getting émus, scenes of everyday life while listening to music and above all, smelling the perfumes of the Belle Epoque, "an era in which even words and gestures were scented"......

 

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March 31, 2008

Mathilde Laurent: Perfume is a Weapon of Seduction {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Quote of the Day}

Mathilde-Laurent.jpg

 

In an interview in French with Cartier in-house perfumer Mathilde Laurent, the "nose" reveals how the process of customization of a perfume goes. The tab is pretty steep at 60 000 €.

The perfumer talks about her transfer from Guerlain to Cartier, which she already evoked in previous interviews. She explains how a keen sense of smell is not a gift but the result of training and linked with qualities of intelligence and creativity. Someone can have a very sensitive sense of smell, yet lack creativity for example. And one does not just smell with the nose but with the brain. In brief, it is a refutation of the Grenouille myth whereby a superhuman sense of smell explains the success and inevitability of a perfumer's vocation however warped in that case.....

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March 24, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day from Jacques Polge:

Jacques-Polge-perfumer.jpg

 

Here is a beautiful and interesting quote from Chanel in-house perfumer Jacques Polge about what it takes to be a nose (translation after the jump):

"Je crois qu'il faut une certaine forme de sensibilité, une espèce d'attirance pour un certain type de langage qui n'use pas de mots et dit les choses différemment. Je crois que le parfum dit d'une manière bien particulière des choses qu'on ne pourrait pas dire autrement. Quand on fait des parfums, on n'est pas du côté des puissants, ceux qui contrôlent l'image et le son, on est du côté des silencieux. Il faut donc cette attirance." .....


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February 13, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day, from Immanuel Kant:

Kant-Meal.jpg

"Olfaction is a kind of taste experienced at a distance. Others are forced, willy-nilly, to participate in this pleasure. And this is why, being in contradiction with freedom, olfaction is less social than taste, where among many dishes or bottles a guest can choose one that he likes without others being forced to share the pleasure of it. "

in Anthropology From a Pragmatic Point of View (1798)

January 19, 2008

Pacifica Persian Rose Candle {Home Fragrance Review} Scented Quote of the Day, from Saadi...{Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 4}

persian-rose-Pacifica-Candle.jpg
Pacifica started their business in 1995 as a candle-making company and later branched out into beauty care. Their scented body butters are very good as we have had already the opportunity to point out, both from the vantage points of texture and perfume. Some for the latter part, are better than others. We discovered them through their creams, tried their soaps and eaux de toilette too, and lastly sniffed their candles. The scented candles, did not beckon us immediately as they seemed to be on the strong side and to lack some subtlety, at least when not burning. Nevertheless, we decided to try Persian Rose, which offers a rather enthralling true dewy fruity rose scent as captured in the cold soy wax.....

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January 1, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day, from Jean-François Blayn:

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Chanel No. 5 by Andy Warhol, 1985 

"La vérité en parfum n’existe pas, sauf à être la passagère coïncidence d’une senteur avec notre âme, ce qui fait bien des vérités pour tout autant d’âmes."

"Truth in perfume does not exist, unless one means by that the transient state of coincidence of a scent with our soul, which means that there are as many truths as there are souls."

Note: quote from Dictionnaire du langage parfumé. Jean-François Blayn is a perfume expert and teaches at ISIPCA.

 

This was written in 1990 when the perfume scene was relatively less uniform and therefore less obviously comparable within itself. The new level of homogeneity today pushes towards an objectification of perfume. The development of an active discourse on perfume that seeks other references than the simplistic sentimental "I" and what it likes and dislikes also contributes to disengaging perfume from mere triumphant and conclusive subjectivity.

 

December 29, 2007

Scented Quote of the Day, from Maurice Maurin:

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A fire in the fireplace is an olfactory symphony [...] (follows a long beautiful poetic evocation of all the smells that emanate from the fragrant woods and plants in the fireplace and mingle about in the room). These smells are important but let us recall that they are linked with the warm atmosphere, the crackle of the blazing fire, to its colors, shapes, shifts. The nose needs all the other senses to savor fully. The smell of the fire in the fireplace would be nothing without this mise-en-scene which stages a fireplace, blaze, and crackle. It needs this jewel case......

Note: Maurice Maurin is the creator of Amazone by Hermès and Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur, amongst others. He is also a perfume author.

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December 20, 2007

Scented Quote of the Day, from Jean-Jacques Rousseau:

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Jean-Jacques Rousseau in an Armenian costume, Geneva 

"Les odeurs par elles-mêmes sont des sensations faibles ; elles ébranlent plus l’imagination que le sens, et n’affectent pas tant par ce qu’elles donnent que par ce qu’elles font attendre. Cela supposé, les goûts des uns, devenus, par leurs manières de vivre, si différents des goûts des autres, doivent leur faire porter des jugements bien opposés des saveurs, et par conséquent des odeurs qui les annoncent. Un Tartare doit flairer avec autant de plaisir un quartier puant de cheval mort, qu’un de nos chasseurs, une perdrix à moitié pourrie" (our translation after the jump).......

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November 22, 2007

Thanksgiving by Amelia E. Barr {Scented Poem of the Day}

Thanksgiving Day Pilgrims.gif
THANKSGIVING

"Have you cut the wheat in the blowing fields,

The barley, the oats, and the rye,

The golden corn and the pearly rice?

For the winter days are nigh."


"We have reaped them all from shore to shore,

And the grain is safe on the threshing floor."


"Have you gathered the berries from the vine,

And the fruit from the orchard trees?

The dew and the scent from the roses and thyme,

In the hive of the honeybees?"........

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November 19, 2007

Scented Quote of the Day, from Arcadi Boix Camps: {Updated}

Creation of the world and expulsion from paradise Giovanni di Paolo.jpg
The Creation of the World and the Expulsion from Paradise, Giovanni di Paolo, 1445, The Met
 

If you thought one could not wax lyrical after knowing one was smelling a fabricated perfume molecule, think again. Perfumer Arcadi Boix Camps from Auram Art & Perfume is stunned by the beauty of Paradisone and tells us about his unconditional love and admiration for it,

"Paradisone is one of the most unbelievable and radiant molecules I have ever smelled, even more so than the wonderful Helvetolide (Firmenich). It is pure vibration, a storm of delicacy and diffusion.[....] 

"One smelling strip of Paradisone in a 70-m2 room diffuses the space with the angelic aromas of one million flowers. Again, as a perfumer, I must publicly say thank you to the chemists, because Paradisone's synthesis was among chemistry's miracles along with racemic, laevo and dextro Ambrox.......

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October 19, 2007

Scented Quote of the Day, from Christian Dior: - 60th Anniversary of Miss Dior {Fragrant Reading}

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Mademoiselle de Camargo by Nicolas Lancret (1730) 
 
"Le parfum c'est le complément indispensable de la personnalité féminine, c'est le finishing touch d'une robe, c'est la rose dont Lancret signait ses toiles".
 
~
 
"Perfume is the indispensable complement to the feminine personality; it is the finishing touch of a dress; it is like the rose that Lancret used to sign his paintings."........

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October 11, 2007

Perfumer Sophie Labbé {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers} {Scented Quote of the Day}

Sophie Labbé.jpg

 

Sophie Labbé is a senior perfumer at IFF, which she joined in 1992.

Studied at: She studied at ISIPCA (graduated the first of her class) and then at the internal school of Givaudan. She was the recipient in 2005 of the prestigious François Coty prize and was the first woman to receive this distinction. It was also a first for IFF.

Creations include: Romeo Gigli G de Gigli (1994), Jardin de Soleil d'Escada, Organza de Givenchy (1996), Emporio Armani pour Homme, Boss Woman d’Hugo Boss, Premier jour de Nina Ricci (2005), Cacharel Promesse (With Carlos Benaïm of IFF) (2005).......

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Scented Quote of the Day Archive

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