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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

Green Products Archive

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September 30, 2009

Les Sens des Fleurs E'Sens, Ideel des Sens, A Double Sens (2009): Scents Co-Signed by Dr. Bach {New Perfumes} {Green Products}


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Les Sens des Fleurs (lit.The Meanings of Flowers), is a French eco-certified bio cosmetics brand founded by Stella Mordocco-Menendez. They just released a new collection of perfumes based on the principles and ingredients developed by Dr. Edward Bach and his famous flowers. The wellness theme is taken to heart here as each fragrance is not only an olfactory composition that smells good but has a flowers-of-Dr.-Bach formula included in it to help elevate the moods of women (some would say, good luck with that!).

The series is called Actes de Fleurs (Flowers' Acts) and includes E'Sens, Idéel des Sens, A Double Sens...

Continue reading "Les Sens des Fleurs E'Sens, Ideel des Sens, A Double Sens (2009): Scents Co-Signed by Dr. Bach {New Perfumes} {Green Products}" »

April 11, 2009

Melvita Homme Noix de Muscade et Cardamome (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Green Products}


Melvita-EDT-Homme.jpgMelvita have added a new perfume and their first masculine composition to their range of bio-grade fragrances benefiting from the organic seal approval from Eco-Cert. The scent is called Eau de Toilette Homme Noix de Muscade et Cardamome (Nutmeg and Cardamom) and is part of Les Eaux de Toilette Bio collection....

Continue reading "Melvita Homme Noix de Muscade et Cardamome (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Green Products}" »

April 5, 2009

L'Artisan Parfumeur Cote d'Amour: Ecocert Certified (2009) {New Perfume} {Green Products}


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L'Artisan Parfumeur is going to release their second very green and eco-conscious scent following Jatamansi last year. Like the first scent in the series, it is Ecocert Certified and Cosmebio labeled.

The new jus is called Côte d'Amour in reference to the coastal area defined as "... the coast west of Nantes and just south of Guérand, that runs north of the Loire estuary from St Nazaire to le Croisic."

The composition is by perfumer Céline Ellena who last year introduced a fragrance called Sublime Balkiss for another niche perfume house of which she is the nose-in-title, The Different Company. I mention that other scent as I see a common point between the two perfumes as both hold a reference to the wind, misty air, and external elements, albeit Côte d'Amour appears a priori more solar and drier...

Continue reading "L'Artisan Parfumeur Cote d'Amour: Ecocert Certified (2009) {New Perfume} {Green Products}" »

March 30, 2009

Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co. White Bergamot (2008) Nominated for the UK Beauty Awards {Fragrance News} {Green Products}



BSQ-Bergamot-2.jpgWhite Bergamot by Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co., is part of their Natural Couture collection, a library of scents that aims to appeal to both the sophisticated sorts and the green-minded.

The collection was developed together with the Victoria & Albert Museum and features the stylish fashion photographies of John French (1906-1966) on the packaging. But even beyond that, the scents from the collection, which also includes White Amber and White Muguet, were inspired by the photographies displayed at the exhibition on French's work, The Golden Age of Couture...

Continue reading "Berkeley Square Cosmetics Co. White Bergamot (2008) Nominated for the UK Beauty Awards {Fragrance News} {Green Products}" »

March 19, 2009

CPL Aromas Has Introduced a Range of 100% Organic Fragrance Ingredients {Fragrance News} {Green Products}


CPL Aromas is anticipating the growth of the organic green market and wants to participate in it.  They have now launched a collection of organic (not just natural) raw materials which were available beforehand but were deemed not sustainable to introduce commercially. One caveat though at this point: the fine-fragrance market as we know it today will probably be not as interested in them as the personal-care market due to its increasingly sophisticated reliance on synthetically designed molecules ...

Continue reading "CPL Aromas Has Introduced a Range of 100% Organic Fragrance Ingredients {Fragrance News} {Green Products}" »

February 8, 2009

Nuts Creme de Parfum Melon D'Eau, Ylang Ylang D'Amore, Mango Poudre, Mimosa Bouquet, Apricot Chypre... {Spotlight on a Brand} {Green Products}


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Several of the Nuts Crème de Parfum scents were launched by Monarch Beach California based company The Cream Perfume Company in 2007 at the Natural Products Association Natural Market Place show. Their products are now distributed by Sephora in the US.

The fragrances are reportedly composed of high-quality essence oils imported from Grasse, France, sometimes making up to 22 % of the solid perfume carried by beeswax and almond oil. The brand decided to go back to the Egyptian antiquity for inspiration and forgo alcohol-based fragrances to greater lasting effect and to reduce costs on packaging...

Continue reading "Nuts Creme de Parfum Melon D'Eau, Ylang Ylang D'Amore, Mango Poudre, Mimosa Bouquet, Apricot Chypre... {Spotlight on a Brand} {Green Products} " »

September 19, 2008

Beauty Reads - Latest Posts

Beauty-Salamander-Logo.jpgHere are our latest posts on beauty, from most recent to older:

A review of Dior Ultra-Gloss Reflect Lip Gloss in Lurex Plum from Dandy Lady

A review of Patyka Organic Face Scrub - Gommage Visage Bio: How Organic Is It?

Check out Bill Cunnigham's reportage on shoes at Fashion Week in NYC: Bags Are So Out, Shoes Are So In

August 24, 2008

Organic-Grade Solvent is the New Holy Grail for Aveda & a Note on Organic vs. Natural {The 5th Sense in the News} {Green Products}

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Here is an article about Aveda's senior perfumer Ko-Ichi Shiozawa. It touches upon the difficulty he currently experiences producing wholly desirable organic perfumes in a competitive market that has an increasing demand for such scents seen as ideals of cleanliness, greenness and purity. It is no mere chance if the Aveda perfumes are titled "Pure-Fume".

For Shiozawa it mainly seems to be a critical problem with finding an organic-grade solvent (see for comparison the issue that was raised around tap water being used by Bayliss Ranch as a so-called "organic" ingredient). For the President of Aveda Dominique Conseil it is about investing in a higher proportion of organically-certified ingredients, passing from 25% to more than 90% for the new generation of Aveda products (no further precision added).

 According to organic certification grades recognized and controled by the USDA, if it is less than 95% - 70 to 94% - the products can be called "Made with Organic Ingredients" as opposed to the next level, "Certified Organic", i.e., 95% or higher. The highest organic grade is "100% Certified Organic". The lowest grade is found at below 70% and the product then cannot be called "organic", only the relevant ingredients...

Continue reading "Organic-Grade Solvent is the New Holy Grail for Aveda & a Note on Organic vs. Natural {The 5th Sense in the News} {Green Products}" »

August 22, 2008

Space NK Quintet of Earth-Friendly Signature Scents (2008) {New Fragrances} {Green Products}

Space-NK-Perfumes.jpgSpace NK Apothecary is interested in spreading its DNA via five perfumes, including a relaunch of Laughter (1999). The four other compositions joining the stable are: Champaca, Jasamber, Tuberoli and Santalrosa. All were inspired by travel memories of Space NK founder, Nicky Kinnaird.

Perfumistas will be interested to know that perfumer Christopher Sheldrake, who now works for Chanel and collaborates with Serge Lutens, is the author, after Laughter, of Tuberoli and Santalrosa as well. Champaca is by Azzi Glasser and Jasamber by company Robertet...

Continue reading "Space NK Quintet of Earth-Friendly Signature Scents (2008) {New Fragrances} {Green Products} " »

April 7, 2008

Cattier Bio-Certified Line of Perfumes (2008) {New Fragrances} {Green Products}

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Cattier, a cosmetics brand established in 1968 and specializing in natural products derived from organic agriculture have launched a new line of perfumes which includes 6 different scents, which are bio-certified (see explanation below).

They are: Eau Boisée (cedar, patchouli, sandalwood), Eau de Mai (rose, ylang, lavender), Eau du Matin (mandarin, mint, sweet lime), Eau Champêtre (bergamot, geranium, patchouli), Eau de Provence (lavender, geranium, petitgrain), and Eau du Verger (orange, cardamom, geranium).....

Continue reading "Cattier Bio-Certified Line of Perfumes (2008) {New Fragrances} {Green Products}" »

March 13, 2008

Naturelle d'Argan: The Call of Morocco - The Green Spirit of the Hammam Part 2 {Beauty Notes} {Skin} {Hair} {Nails} {Green Products}

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 1. Organic Argan Oil 2. Comfort Daily Cream (6% Argan oil) 3. Regenerating Night Balm (50% Argan Oil). Photo © Naturelle d'Argan

 

The Lure of Argan Oil by Guest Contributor Pauline

Surfing on the Argan oil’s wave, Naturelle d’Argan is an organic and ethical skin care range, which uses the highly regenerative oil of Moroccan origin that nourishes, protects and moisturizes the skin.

The 100% organic argan oil is reported to contain over 20 nutrients for the skin, such as Omega 6 and Omega 9, vitamin E and Polyphenol, which are powerful anti-oxidants. Berber women, who have traditionally been in charge of the hand picked harvests of Argan nuts, use this anti-aging oil for their beauty rituals (body, hair and nails).

The Naturelle d’Argan range comprises 4 face and 3 body skin cares, including an original exfoliating cleansing gel made of finely ground Argan seeds and apricot kernel. The Argan oil, called “Pure Argan Elixir,” is labelled “Cosmebio”, which guarantees the use of a minimum of 95% of natural ingredients and 10% of bio ingredients. It is Paraben-free, Silicone-free and GMO-free ingredients. The oil can be used for face, body and hair-care.....

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 1. Argan Oil Shower Gel - Orange Blossom 2. Body Scrub with Argan kernels 3. Silky-smooth Body Crème - Orange Blossom 4. Traditional terracotta exfoliating stone. Photo © Naturelle d'Argan

Continue reading "Naturelle d'Argan: The Call of Morocco - The Green Spirit of the Hammam Part 2 {Beauty Notes} {Skin} {Hair} {Nails} {Green Products}" »

March 9, 2008

L'Artisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Candle & Bath & Shower Gel (2008) {Home Fragrance} {Bath & Body} {Green Products}

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L'Artisan Parfumeur will release in May of 2008 two new products in its 100 % natural and organic Jatamansi (Himalayan Nard) line bearing the Ecocert and Cosmébio labels and which in fact exceed those standards according to the press release. They are a Scented Candle and a Bath and Shower Gel.....

Continue reading "L'Artisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Candle & Bath & Shower Gel (2008) {Home Fragrance} {Bath & Body} {Green Products}" »

December 13, 2007

Tsi-La Organics Collection {Perfume Reviews in a Nutshell} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $75 or Less} {Green Products}

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Tsi-La Organics have put out a collection of 4 fragrances comprising Kesu, Ilang Ilang, Kizes and Fleur Sauvage in a set including 4 ml flacons. After having tested several of their offerings we can say that the scents are consistently very rich, narcotic, and on top of that very relaxing!.....

Continue reading "Tsi-La Organics Collection {Perfume Reviews in a Nutshell} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $75 or Less} {Green Products}" »

Green Products Archive

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Latest Comments

Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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