Monthly Archives from March 2006

Trend Alert Archive

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March 30, 2008

Ambregris' Comeback 2006-2008 {Trend ALert}

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 Incensing The Veil by John Singer Sargent - aquarelle version of the painting by the same author, Ambergris Smoke (1880) JSS Gallery
 

Well, you cannot deny it now, ambergris is making a prolonged comeback. In a world where perfume trends can be short-lived (is the mega 2007 iris-trend still alive this year?), a classic material like grey amber that is not exactly pedestrian is seducing anew. The trend is essentially taking place within the niche sector of perfumery in an effort, we can assume, to find notes and accords that are rarer, i.e., neglected by the mainstream market, and offer a stronger personality. Interestingly, the contrast between the niche/mainstream iris-trend and the ambergris-trend as a solely niche one tends to show that the latter is slower to combust but more enduring.

So what noteworthy ambergris perfumes do we have here?.....

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February 28, 2008

Halle Berry To Launch Fragrance with Coty: The Rise of The Ethnic Factor in Fragrance & Beauty Marketing {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume} {Trend Alert}

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Coty have announced that they will launch a signature perfume fronted and developed by Oscar-winning actress Halle Berry in the spring of 2009.

Not only is this news a consolidation of the celebrity perfume trend, but even more significantly perhaps it also shows how fragrance and beauty brands are reaching out to women from minority communities (see recent news about Shakira) with the more recent inclusions of women with African-American ancestry in the stables of celebrities that sell perfumes (see Avon Imari with Jennifer Hudson, Armani Diamonds with Beyoncé Knowles and the projected scent by Tom Ford fronted by Erykah Badu, still to be confirmed). Even pionneer of the new generation of celebrity fragrances in the 21st century JLo has picked up on this trend by accentuating the importance of her Hispanic heritage with her latest fragrance named with a Spanish name, Deseo, a facet of her perfumes that had not been explicitly stressed before.....

Continue reading "Halle Berry To Launch Fragrance with Coty: The Rise of The Ethnic Factor in Fragrance & Beauty Marketing {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume} {Trend Alert}" »

November 1, 2007

Fairytales by Lulu Guinness {New Perfume} Mirror & Fairy Tales {Trend Alert}

 

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 Fairytales Eau de Toilette, $58 for 3.4 fl. oz.

Lulu Guinness launched a new perfume yesterday on Halloween day called Fairytales. It is a limited edition and is inspired by the tales of Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty. She had already launched a fragrance inspired by the same magical theme called Cast a Spell, a woody oriental......

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October 10, 2007

Resurrecting Vintage Perfume Brands: Robert Piguet, Lubin, Jovoy, & Now Gabilla! {Fragrance News} {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}

Gabilla.jpg

Parallel to the activities of innovation and sense of sheer child-like liberty of creation in perfumery that are perhaps best exemplified by Etat Libre d'Orange who seem to be delighted to be sticking their tongues at starchy perfume wearers and complementary to it, we see a more curatorial-minded movement that aims to resurrect antique and vintage French perfume brands, some of which are all but forgotten.

It would be interesting to see how this current (for the French-owned brands) parallels another cultural movement in French-movie making, that of the so-called heritage movies. The preservation of national patrimony has become a core Republican value of the French. Is its seeming equivalent in perfumery similarly minded or animated by a different spirit? More generally and beyond the French frame of reference (for Piguet for example) it certainly signifies an aesthetic choice......

Gabilla Parfumeries Ad.JPG

Continue reading "Resurrecting Vintage Perfume Brands: Robert Piguet, Lubin, Jovoy, & Now Gabilla! {Fragrance News} {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}" »

October 1, 2007

Oh So Feminine Vetiver - {Trend Alert}

Vetiver Fan Ayala.jpg

More often than not one is tempted to associate vetiver with masculine fragrances. Fragrances that famously advertize vetiver the rooty, herby ingredient are the likes of Carven Vetiver, Givenchy Vetiver, Guerlain Vetiver, all meant for men. Notwithstanding this olfactory code and convention, we all know that Vétiver by Guerlain was high-jacked by women, signaling a popular protest against such entrenched positions.

In the 1910s-1920s, vetiver was to be found in a number of very feminine fragrances that played the liberated card of the garçonne, such as Caron Violette Précieuse, Tabac Blond, Chanel No.5, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Molinard Habanita, etc. Later of course Bandit offered a masterful feminine use of vetiver. In the very recent past a number of perfumes have demonstrated that vetiver can add femininity and sexiness to a fragrance and the trend is picking up as evidenced by a series of new releases in both niche and design lines........

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September 24, 2007

Venice by Memento {New Perfume} The Beautiful-Italy Trend {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}

Venice.jpg

The Italian group Eurocosmesi is going to unveil a new niche perfume brand in October of 2007 at the TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes, which was christened Memento. The collection is dedicated to presenting an olfactory tour of Italy.

Their first creation is a women's fragrance called Venice. Interestingly, Italian perfume brands lately seem to offer an almost nationalistic flavor and derive inspiration often from the national landscape. It might be that it is this idea of turning perfumes into objects that tourists will feel moved to buy as souvenirs from their trips or it might be that there is some sort of ideological current running......

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September 20, 2007

Fishnets on Perfume Flacons are In! Les Flacons de Parfums Adoptent le Bas Résille! {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}

Fish Net Bottle Trend3.jpg

Perfume bottles this fall are adopting the sexy fishnet look to stress their sex appeal, sense of style, and surprise the consumer -- Le bas résille a le vent en poupe cet automne en parfumerie sélective et même dans celle dite de niche! Témoins, trois parfums qui optent pour plus de provocation vestimentaire et de références fétichistes à la Bunuel:......

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September 8, 2007

Terry Richardson, is the New Darling of Perfume Advertising, Which Means More Sex Please {Scented Images} {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}

Beckhams Richardson.jpg
Open your eyes!  Photographer Terry Richardson is becoming fashionable among celebrities wanting to promote their perfumes from the porno-chic angle. He is well-known for his graphic aesthetics and these days, it seems that one needs all the attention one can create to pull a perfume out of the crowd, nay sea, of new releases. After Tom Ford decided in a dramatic reversal of aesthetic choices to play the Terry Richardson card rather than the Marilyn Minter one, the Beckhams have also enlisted Richardson's camera to promote the Intimately Beckham Night duo......

Continue reading "Terry Richardson, is the New Darling of Perfume Advertising, Which Means More Sex Please {Scented Images} {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}" »

August 15, 2007

More on Colonia Intensa by Acqua Di Parma {New Fragrance} The Neo-Virile Trend {Trend Alert}

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As previously announced, from the venerable, upscale, and well-loved Italian brand Acqua Di Parma created in 1916, comes next month a new perfume called Colonia Intensa, which will represent their first historic foray into the explicit masculine categorization of a scent. This launch comes within a market context where masculine customers are perceived as a new driving force in perfume sales encouraging a neo-virile trend in the design of fragrances, which are being trimmed of their ambiguous, unisex references......

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July 28, 2007

Secrets D'Essences Iris Noir by Yves Rocher {New Perfume} Galore of Iris Perfumes {Trend Alert}

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Yves Rocher have announced that the third Secrets D'Essences after Voile D'Ambre and Rose Absolue will be dedicated to the supremely elegant iris flower with a fragrance called Iris Noir (Black Iris). Lately, several significant launches have honored the bloom or are about to, pointing to an iris comeback as if every perfumer wanted to try their hands at an iris fragrance (often associated with a fashionable and noticeable note of fruity and musky ambrette seed): Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir, Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile, Chanel no 18, more discreetly in the heart of Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel, also Prada Infusion d'Iris, Guerlain Iris Ganache, and the upcoming L'Occitane Iris, Parfum d'Empire Equistrius and L'Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida 2007. Black flowers are also very in with the trend having been particularly well exemplified by Tom Ford fragrances, starting with Black Orchid......

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Trend Alert Archive

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