Monthly Archives from March 2006

October 2007 Archive

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October 2, 2007

Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d'Orange {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

Rossy de Palma.jpg
Rossy de Palma at the launch party for Eau de Protection
 
Rossy de Palma is this wonderful Spanish character actress - one of Almodovar's fetish actresses - with the most atypical of physiques, one that seems to combine references to both El Greco and Pablo Picasso's works. Is it a coincidence or the sum of ancestral genius and powers of observation of two great Spanish painters that have extracted certain specific traits found in their compatriots? Rossy de Palma's face offers the same elongated and sharp-as-a-knife-blade likeness to an El Greco figure as well as the boldness and asymmetry of a woman's face quietly rendered by Picasso (cf. Le Mystère Picasso by Clouzot). And she dreamed to capture the elusive scent of the rose.

 

The Wish

Eau de Protection (Protective Eau), the latest creation by Etat Libre d'Orange is a perfume à la commande, a custom-made perfume for a strong personality and secondarily, a celebrity. Rather than to take the well-trodden path of the design celebrity perfume which aims essentially to please millions of potential wearers more desperately than the celebrity herself or himself, would the marketers be asked to tell the truth in a confessional, Etat Libre d'Orange, being a niche perfumery, has the luxury to take more idiosyncratic risks......

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The fragrance team partying on September 22 2007 for the launch of Eau de Protection at the Orangerie de Bagatelle 

Continue reading "Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d'Orange {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}" »

October 3, 2007

Scented Quote of the Day, from Rachelle Bloom (& William Lauder):

Rachelle Bloom.jpg About the state of the perfume industry, 
 
“We are more and more guilty of throwing spaghetti against the wall and seeing if it sticks [quoting her friend William Lauder]. Everyone talks about it, everyone writes about it, but every year there are … almost 400 new fragrances. And the next year the number goes up again. Where are those fragrances the next year?”......


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Pawfum by Juicy Couture {New Pet Perfume} Polished Paws {Beauty Notes}

Pawfum Juicy Couture.jpg
The pet haute perfume category seems to be picking up since its revival by Etienne de Swardt with Oh My Dog! If the Romans already had the idea of perfuming animals and if some pooh lovers might have occasionally directed a perfume atomizer towards theirs favorite pets, one cannot say that the association of fine fragrances and pet animals has become a natural one, yet......
Polished Paws Juicy Couture.jpg

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Un Brin de Réglisse by Hermès: the 7th Hermessence {New Fragrance}

Un Brin de Réglisse_Illustration.gif

 

The 7th perfume in the exclusive boutique collection Hermessences by Hermès is a lavender and licorice fragrance called Un Brin de Réglisse (lit. a strand of licorice or fig. a tad of licorice).

It was composed by Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and is said to be based on an accord combining a dry, re-worked lavender and a dash of licorice........

Réglisse.jpg

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October 4, 2007

Kyphi Oil by Alchemy Works {Perfume Short (Review)}

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"Burning kyphi and vetiver rootlets" by Ayala Moriel
 
Kyphi Oil by Alchemy Works is sold as a magical oil, which is based on the 2200 year old recipe of Kyphi found on the walls of the temple of Horus at Edfu. Kyphi is one of the most ancient perfume recipes known to exist and there are many variations of it but they always consist of an incense compound macerated together with honey, wine, and raisins. This incense perfume was endowed with both spiritual and medicinal properties and burned in the evening by the Ancient Egyptians who customarily burned different kinds of incenses to mark the different times of the day. Edfu Kyphi more particularly symbolizes the transition from day to night.

The reason why we suddenly felt the need to seek out some kyphi more recently is because when we received our sample of Hors Là Monde Shiloh earlier this summer and started feeling the charm of a perfume that has an ancient mystical and haunting quality about it, we wondered if it might not have been inspired by something very ancient like kyphi? When we put the question to Symine Salimpour, she would or could not say anything, so we decided to hunt down a flacon of kyphi.......

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Dragon Flacon for Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d'Orange {Scented Image}

Eau de Protection Etat Libre d'Orange Flacon.jpg
We got a picture of the flacon of the new Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection. Please read our review of this literally spell-binding perfume. The design is a departure from the usual Etat Libre d'Orange bottles as the glass is not usually decorated but bears a bristol label.......

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Noël au Balcon, Limited Edition by Etat Libre d'Orange {New Perfume}

Noël au Balcon.jpg

 

Etat Libre d'Orange will release a new limited edition for the holidays created for Sephora called Noël au Balcon (lit. Christmas at the Balcony, i.e., at the décolleté). The perfume was created by Antoine Maisondieu.......

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News in Brief: Le Labo in London, Tom of Finland set to Launch in Feb 2008 {Fragrance News}

Le Labo, according to Women's Wear Daily, will open a store in London in October of 2007 at the Liberty Department Store. It will be located just outside the beauty hall.

Etat Libre d'Orange are gearing up to launch a new perfume and another celebrity scent, niche style, in partnership with Tom of Finland in February of 2008. See our previous report here about the jus called Tom of Finland.

L'Express Interviews Jean-Claude Ellena in Two Times {The 5th Sense in the News}

Jean-Claude Ellena Villa Cabris.jpg

There is an interesting interview of Jean-Claude Ellena in L'Express around the publication of his new book. It verifies certain impressions you get from the booklet he just put out: the intense pressure of the job (one feels a certain tension and negativity in his opus), a stylistic opposition with Serge Lutens, and most importantly perhaps the intrinsic, somewhat tragic, aspect of a profession where you aim to be a demanding artist, yet have to please many, many people in two short seconds (for the average perfume consumer). He in fact does not hesitate to say,

"Ce métier a cela de terrible que l'on a effectivement deux secondes, le temps d'un spray, pour séduire. Mais j'ai pour ma part le désir de plaire, pas seulement de séduire"

~

"This craft has this terrible aspect to it, in that we indeed have only 2 seconds, the time of a spray, to seduce. But personally, I have the desire to please, not just to seduce."

He also lets out that he feels he has taken an (admittedly, calculated) risk in publishing his list of perfumery ingredients.......

Jean-Claude Ellena Carroussel.jpg
A carousel filled with Jean-Claude Ellena's Flacons

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L'Instant Magic by Guerlain {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

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L'Instant Magic by Guerlain is the new - and officially, only a semantic - twist proposed on the original L'instant composed by perfumer Maurice Roucel in 2003 in collaboration with Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain artistic director. Guerlain wishes to present the perfume as being novel regarding its contents. The new fragrance was created by perfumer Randa Hammami of Symrise in collaboration with Sylvaine Delacourte.

Despite the Guerlain press release that states that the new perfume has little if anything to do with the original L'instant, it in fact appears to us to be a L'Instant rethought. It showcases similar fresh top notes and floral bouquet with the main addition of a delicious, very mellow and rich accord of almond marzipan with slightly grilled edges that brings a certain comforting and abstract gourmand quality to the scent while evoking the elegant texture of a vaporous muslin crinoline dress of the IInd Empire that could have been worn by Eugénie de Montijo. The combination of the nutty facet of almond with florals here is interestingly reminiscent, conceptually mostly, of the rose and amaretto accord in Pucci Vivara (2007).......


L' Instant Magic Pyramide.jpg

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October 5, 2007

François Charles by Rancé 1795 {New Fragrance - Cologne}

François Charles Rancé.jpg
Rancé 1795 has released a new men's fragrance from the archival depths of the house for its historic Collection Impériale; it is called François Charles. It was named after the son of Napoléon Bonaparte and Marie-Louise d'Autriche also known as l'Aiglon or Roi de Rome. Previous perfumes in the imperial fragrance series include Le Vainqueur, Joséphine, and Eugénie, which all follow the common theme of a dedication to a member of the Bonaparte family......

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News in Brief: Ulric de Varens Builds Brand Image, New Hermès Garden {Fragrance News}

• According to Cosmetic News and Cosmetics Design, Ulrich de Varens will develop its brand recognition aura and will open a chain of stores, with five expected to be inaugurated in France by the end of 2008. They wish to position themselves in the segment of the market found between selective perfumery and mass market. Their current offerings will expand as well and include a Varens Original collection comprising 10 feminine EDPs with "powerful, distinctive notes".

• Hermès will issue a new perfume in its garden series in May of 2008, inspired this time by the gardens of South East Asia. 

Chloé (2008) by Chloé {New Fragrance}

Chloé EDP.jpg

 

As previously announced, Chloé is preparing to launch a new feminine fragrance that will take the original name of the Chloé Classique, formerly known as Chloé (1973), which is a superbly sensual tuberose perfume......

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October 7, 2007

Chloé Parfum Launch Party {Fragrance News}

COTY-INC.-CHLOE-Newscom.jpg
 
CHLOE EAU DE PARFUM PARTY - PARIS - CLEMENCE POESY, MICHELE SCANNAVINI (PRESIDENT COTY PRESTIGE) ANJA RUBIK, RALPH TOLEDANO (CEO OF CHLOE), CHLOE SEVIGNY(Photo courtesy of PRNewsFoto/Coty Inc./Newscom)

Coty Inc. officially launched the new Chloé fragrance on Saturday October 6 2007 in Paris and as is becoming more and more of an imperative these days, relied in part for its publicity on celebrities' support. According to PR Newswire,

"Michele Scannavini, President of Coty Prestige, and Ralph Toledano, CEO of Chloe, welcomed almost 800 people to the Hotel de la Monnaie, redecorated for the occasion in the style of the new fragrance........

Chloe Launch Party Coty Newscom.jpg
CHLOE EAU DE PARFUM PARTY - PARIS (Photo courtesy of PRNewsFoto/Coty Inc./Newscom)

Continue reading "Chloé Parfum Launch Party {Fragrance News}" »

Original by Claire Burke {New Perfume}

Original EDP Claire Burke.jpg

 

Claire Burke who usually specializes in home fragrances has released a limited edition personal Eau de Parfum called Original based on their Original pot-pourri recipe, which is the best-seller of the brand. The launch marks the 50th anniversary of the brand founded by interior decorator Claire Burke.........


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October 2007 Archive

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