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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

Men's Colognes Archive

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March 3, 2009

Lanvin L'Homme Sport (2009): Fronted by Rafael Nadal {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Men's Cologne - Adverts}


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As announced previously, Lanvin is counting on the celebrity-recognition effect of world champion Rafael Nadal to promote their new men's scent called L'Homme Sport by Lanvin. It can be hard sometimes for consumers to orient themselves in the maze of L'Homme and Sport-tagged masculine fragrances so it is almost an obligatory step for companies to choose a unique differentiating element in their advertisements, at least....

Continue reading "Lanvin L'Homme Sport (2009): Fronted by Rafael Nadal {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Men's Cologne - Adverts}" »

March 1, 2009

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances: 11 Best & Hottest Men's Colognes - Part 2 {The Fragrance List}


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Life is paradoxical. After coming up with my list of sexiest men's fragrances in 10 minutes or so, it took me several days to be able to focus again on publishing it. Meanwhile, I wrote about why my list was not ready for publication yet some ideas around why a man needs a woman to help him choose those steamy scents in Part 1.

I toyed with the idea of adding a couple of perfumes but decided to stick to the original list after re-smelling Jules by Dior, a once-very-sexy scent for me that seems to have lost that character. And If I did not think about it immediately, I suppose it means that it did not leave such a mark on my psyche.

So, here is my list composed on an instinctual level. If I happen on other particularly sexy scents for men, I will make sure to add a part 3, part 4 etc....

Different Kinds of Sexy:

Plain Sexy: Kenzo Jungle pour Homme. I don't know exactly how it manages to do that and I don't really want to know, but it's a scent that readily plants a masculine atmosphere of woods and a sensual aura of virility. Not all woods are very masculine, you realize, some just smell like the timber with which lumberjacks are associated. With Kenzo Jungle pour Homme, there is like a masculine holographic presence materializing at your side, the palpable ghost of a man. It smells like the effect of "a boyfriend's tee-shirt."

Sexy-Sweaty (Sexy-Hot): Eau d'Hermès. The scent of a lupanar sold by a very chic house so it's okay and your good taste and good morality won't be questioned. I still can't believe my nose that such an indecent perfume is available on the market and not even safely tucked away in a niche perfumery brand. As soon as you wear it, you will feel as if all your clothes had fallen at your feet and you are tripping on rumpled bedsheets. The key note of cumin gives it a very frank sweaty and naughty vibe...

Continue reading "The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances: 11 Best & Hottest Men's Colognes - Part 2 {The Fragrance List}" »

February 27, 2009

Byredo Fantastic Man (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

Byred-Fantastic-Man.jpgFantastic-Man-Magazine.jpgThe Dutch men's magazine Fantastic Man, "A gentleman's style magazine", has inaugurated a collaboration with niche perfumery newcomer Byredo parfums to create an eponymous scent called Fantastic Man. The composition, an "eau de cologne" is said to be the result of the collaboration between Byredo founder Ben Gorham working together with designer Jop Van Bennekom and journalist Gert Jonkers, the creators of FM.

Fantastic Man features notes of bergamot, star aniseed, cardamom, geranium, incense, lavander, vetyver, moss and patchouli.

The world-exclusive launch will take place at Colette in Paris, France on March 9, 2009.

(Via Colette newsletter)

February 13, 2009

DKNY Men (2009): Inspired by New York & a Redux {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}


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Donna Karan New York is preparing to launch a new men's perfume called DKNY Men. Although this is not advertised, another DKNY Men was introduced in 2000 which is discontinued now but still available at discount stores online.

The new DKNY Men is described as a citrus, floral, and woody scent (the old one had facets of lavender, amber, spices, and woods). It was created by perfumers Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont over the course of more than a year.

Donna Karan said,

"DKNY Men is all about the man and the city. It takes a certain kind of guy to live and thrive in New York [and] I wanted a scent to speak to his unique style and strength. That is why we chose Mark Vanderloo to represent both DKNY fashion and fragrance. He embodies the DKNY Man."...


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Mark Vanderloo in the 1990s and at the DKNY Celebrates 20 Years at The Tent, Bryant Park on September 7, 2008 in New York City with ex-wife actress Esther Canadas.

Continue reading "DKNY Men (2009): Inspired by New York & a Redux {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

Stetson All American (2009): Fronted by Tom Brady {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

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Coty is going to launch a new Stetson cologne targeting younger men called All American in March of 2009. Coty want to reach out to consumers aged between 25 and 35 while at the present their typical client is 35+. This move is aimed at consolidating their leadership position in the mass market as Stetson is placed # 1 in the US mass-market brand.

What values the All American young male is supposed to embody?

"We see the All American man as an adventurous, rugged, masculine man who is a risk taker." 

The new juice was devised by perfumer Harry Fremont of Firmenich and is classified as an aromatic and woody scent...

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Tom Brady at the "Audi Unplugged" featuring Grace Jones at The Florida Room at The Delano Hotel on Dec 3, 2008 in Miami, Florida © John Parra.

Continue reading "Stetson All American (2009): Fronted by Tom Brady {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

February 12, 2009

John Varvatos Artisan (2009): The Call of Tradition {New Perfume}



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John Varvatos will introduce in February 2009 its third masculine fragrance called simply Artisan with the tag line: "The Past and the Future, Artfully Interwoven." The perfume flask is encased in a beautiful hand-made and distressed rattan outer-covering in reference to antique perfume casings. When the pace of the economy is slowing down, how appropriate and psychologically astute isn't it to turn to the soothing feeling of a simpler and slightly more bucolic past?

The citrus composition is by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, who also created the two previous men's colognes for the brand, John Varvatos and Vintage. According to Nicholas Ratut of JV Fragrance & Skincare, a division of Shiseido,

"We feel there's nothing industrial or corporate about this fragrance; it's very classic, but with a twist."...


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Continue reading "John Varvatos Artisan (2009): The Call of Tradition {New Perfume}" »

February 3, 2009

Diesel Only The Brave (2009): Fist-Bump with your Cologne {New Perfume}


Diesel-Only-The-Brave.jpgAfter the huge success of Fuel for Life, Diesel has imagined a completely different scent housed in an unconventional figurative bottle for its new men's cologne named Only The Brave. The flacon represents a clenched fist with a two-finger ring inspired by Diesel founder Renzo Rosso's holding company and charity foundation both called Only The Brave as well as his own two initial R & R tattoos on the hand. L'Oréal reportedly asked him for something a little extra personal to help construct the identity of the new perfume and these are the insignia both parties came up with. Rosso also hopes to build awareness for his charity foundation through the perfume and has promised to unveil a major charity project in a year or so.

The new masculine cologne is described as being artsy and virile in spirit, going three ways as far as the fragrance personality goes: oriental, woody, and leathery...

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Continue reading "Diesel Only The Brave (2009): Fist-Bump with your Cologne {New Perfume}" »

January 17, 2009

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme (2009): The Nocturnal Side of l'Homme {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}


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As previously announced, Yves Saint Laurent will launch a new masculine perfume on March 2, 2009 fronted by French actor Vincent Cassel. In an interview the thespian gave the Votre Beauté magazine of February 2009, we learn that the new jus is called La Nuit de l'Homme (lit.The Night of the Man), a new installment in the L'Homme franchise the latter still being fronted by actor Olivier Martinez....

Continue reading "Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme (2009): The Nocturnal Side of l'Homme {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

December 14, 2008

Legendary Fragrances Treasure Island (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}


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Legendary Fragrances launched a new men's cologne called Treasure Island (L'Île au Trésor). The Eau de Toilette is described as being a fresh and fruity woody scent.

"The Legend of Treasure Island goes back 300 years ago, when buccaneers used a remote Island in the Eastern Caribbean to hide their treasures. Oak barrels with aged Rum, old coins, spices and rare essences have fed our imagination since."...

Continue reading "Legendary Fragrances Treasure Island (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 28, 2008

Leonard Homme (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

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Léonard has introduced a new men's cologne called Léonard Homme.

Lately, and since the successes of Dior Homme (2005) and Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme (2006), "homme" has become the best name in town for a men's scent.

See also Guerlain Homme

It's the new thing, the new in thing to do

Before you would see a "pour homme" much more typically, "for men". Now it's simply and bluntly put, Homme, and it sounds like hombre!

The more testosterone you put in the name of a perfume, the more flowers you can cram into the scent

That's the new trick

Next you will see a cologne called Sideburns smelling of muguet

The new Léonard scent offers this interesting motto: THE MAN BEHIND THE FLOWERS (not my capitals)...

Continue reading "Leonard Homme (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 18, 2008

Ormonde Jayne Zizan (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

Zizan-Ormonde-Jayne-3.jpgLondon-based niche perfumery Ormonde Jayne has introduced a new men's perfume called Zizan. It is the eleventh composition by perfumer and owner Linda Pilkington and her third men's cologne after Ormonde Man and Isfarkand.

The new scent rests on a main vetiver and citrus accord and aims to be rich and complex enough to be entirely satisfying on its own - no suggestion of layering here as you can see, and in fact, quite the reverse,

"Zizan, a perfume like no other because it has everything a man could possibly want in a single spectacular scent. This is a powerhouse perfume."...

Continue reading "Ormonde Jayne Zizan (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 16, 2008

Yves Rocher Reedition Parfum Antartic, Aztec, Trimaran (2008) {New Perfumes} {Men's Cologne}

Reedition-Yves-Rocher-Men.jpgYves Rocher, after releasing a collection of re-editions for women from their archives in 2007, have now turned their attention to discontinued men's scents. This fall three colognes can be found anew on the shelves of the Yves Rocher boutiques*: Antartic (1990), Aztec (1993), Trimaran (1985)...

Continue reading "Yves Rocher Reedition Parfum Antartic, Aztec, Trimaran (2008) {New Perfumes} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 14, 2008

Penhaligon's Elixir (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

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Penhaligon's has commissioned a reinterpretation of its classic men's rose fragrance Hammam Bouquet first issued in 1872. For doing so they have turned to none other but to mistress of pale watery effects, vapory H20 and subtle nuances of life perfumer Olivia Giacobetti (she is known for collection interesting smells in tight-shut jars). The end-result is an opulent oriental incorporating a realistic hammam-atmosphere touch, that of the perfumery rendition of steam as revealed by the presence of a note of "eucalyptus steam"... 

Continue reading "Penhaligon's Elixir (2008) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 10, 2008

Salvatore Ferragamo F pour Homme Black (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

Ferragamo-Black-Perfume.jpgItalian luxury shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo will launch a new masculine scent called F pour Homme Black in February 2009. It is said to be a more intense twist on F pour Homme and is designed to be easily worn in the evenings.

One can only appreciate the way the ad makes a statement about the kind of men it targets in not-so-many-words, by just offering a sartorial hint that seems to say, if you like to dress this way (the in, clean and stylish look with a dash of romanticism for the 30 something urbanites who read men's fashion magazines), then I am the one for you ...

Continue reading "Salvatore Ferragamo F pour Homme Black (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

November 6, 2008

Tony Sirico Paolo Per Uomo (2008): The Sopranos' Touch {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Perfume Ads}

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As a follow-up to our initial announcement, here is a sneak peek at the advert for the upcoming new cologne inspired by actor Tony Sirico titled Paolo Per Uomo (Paul or Paulie for Men). It is inspired by his Soprano character Paulie Walnuts. The tag line is: "Make it known you mean business."...

Tony-Sirico.jpg

Continue reading "Tony Sirico Paolo Per Uomo (2008): The Sopranos' Touch {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne} {Perfume Ads}" »

Men's Colognes Archive

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Latest Comments

Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

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