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 As a follow-up to yesterday's announcement, eBay has been sentenced to pay a 61.3 million dollars or 38.6 million Euros fine to luxury group LVMH by a French court today. This is a clear signal that the pressure put on the popular auction site has increased. Last month eBay had been asked to pay Louis Vuitton a much more modest indemnity of 20 000 Euros. According to WWD, this time, "Louis Vuitton received the lion's share and was awarded 19.3 million
euros, or $30.5 million; Christian Dior Couture received 17.4 million
euros, or $27.5 million, and Parfums Christian Dior, Parfums Kenzo,
Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy, were awarded around 3 million euros, or
$4.7 million.
eBay was ordered to stop selling fragrances and
cosmetics from those brands immediately, or face a fine of 50,000
euros, or $79,000, a day."....
Continue reading "Landmark Ruling In Favor of Luxury Brands {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Photo © LVMH
It is no mystery that attempting to buy luxury items such as a Chanel perfume on eBay sold at heavily discounted prices is risky business. More often than not, they turn out to be fakes. Ebay has been plagued with accusations of laissez-faire and brought to court or nearly brought to court a few times already. Tomorrow is the big test; a French court will decide whether or not the auction site will need to be severely sanctioned for alleged damages caused to several French luxury groups,....
Continue reading "eBay Risks Paying 80 Million Dollars In Damages {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Prada men's show spring 2009 © Fashion Wire Daily In a rare case of non-favorable or it could even be said non-complacent reporting on a perfume launch party, columnist Godfrey Deeny from the Fashion Wire Daily critiques both the organization of the launch for the upcoming Prada Infusion d'Homme which took place in Milan on June 22, 2008 and the lack of innovation seen in the fashion show that was presented instead of the anticipated collective sniffing. "Few things are more painful than watching a major luxury label get things badly wrong, which was very much the dismaying case Sunday night in Milan when Prada decided to launch its latest men's cologne and made it tricky for most guests to actually smell the very product......
Continue reading "•• Critique of Prada Infusion d'Homme Launch Party •• Too Avant-Garde & Cultural? {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
 Fake, so-called "reality TV shows" which should be renamed "voyeuristic" or "peeping TV shows" to be closer to the truth can be counted on for offering carefully edited sound-bites; the dumber the better, the most outrageous, the better too. In the UK, the British version of The Apprentice saw a tug of war over perfume designing last night. Who won hardly matters, it's all about giving some good low-brow time to an audience which feels reassured by the carefully orchestrated and cultivated exhibition of human flaws. Our society is so competitive, we all need a rest.
So how do reality actors make perfume designing sound compelling and dramatic? A good dose of emotion (panic), none too bright ideas mixed with a really accessible dialog. You will not need to know what "sillage" means to follow the conversation......
Continue reading "Brainstorming About Perfume Design On The Apprentice {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
The Times online looks at a new sensational twist on traditional communal bathing in Japan. What could feel better than marinating in a hot pool? To have red wine, green tea, coffee, rice alcohol and dark chocolate enhance the experience. It is not only about aromas (it is verboten to drink the concoctions), but also about deriving benefits from the anti-aging properties of green tea and coffee or get a major warming "friction" from sake.....
Continue reading "In Japan, Hot Springs Smell of Chocolate, Wine, Sake, Tea & Coffee {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
© David Gilkey/NPR Trying to break the cycle of financially rewarding poppies crops in Afghanistan, in demand in the heroin trade, proves a challenging task. A local entrepreneur and distiller Shafiq Azizi attempts to replace poppies with roses cultivated for their perfume and fails, for the moment being......
Continue reading "Afghans Try To Cultivate Perfume Crops Instead of Poppies {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Fire Rescue reports that some of their own had to be hospitalized after responding to a fire alarm at a perfume factory. Apparently the cause of their malaise is due to the overwhelming smell of fragrances to untrained and unprepared noses. "Three city firefighters were taken to North Broward Medical Center this morning for evaluation after they began suffering from headaches and lightheadedness while investigating a fire alarm at a perfume company. [...]
Other firefighters have determined this afternoon that the trio taken to the hospital likely were not exposed to any hazardous chemicals and instead likely were affected by the perfumes in the building in the 600 block of Fairway Drive, Fernaays said."
Read more....
The Sunday Times has a funny pamphlet against over-glamorous ads for men's fragrances. Call it a problem of the clash of egos and upsurge of competitive Testosterone. Looking at said ideal ads for the everyman - there is a big plug for Lynx/Axe ads in the article - featuring the so-called "civilian loser type" one has to realize that if the guys look like your average Joe, the girls are more the babe type. Unfair? Typical? The columnist (whose name I don't see) only grumbles about men's body image.....
Continue reading "A Rant About Men's Perfume Ads {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Subha Patel is an olfactory scientist working for IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances). She specializes in finding new scents recorded and reconstituted from nature thanks to Living Flower Technology also called Head Space Technology. Among other things, she is one of the developers of the space rose note found in Shiseido Zen (the white bottle) dubbed "Overnight Scentsation"......
Continue reading "Portrait of a Scientist & Smeller: Subha Patel {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Etienne de Swardt tells it like it is in an interview with The Australian. The article is interesting, in particular, in that it clarifies the relationship between the Parisian niche perfume house Etat Libre d'Orange founded by de Swardt and the much more behemoth-like Geneva-based fragrance company Givaudan. This David-and-Goliath privileged partnership allows the house to maintain its competitive edge in their access to cutting-edge raw materials and technology.....
Continue reading "On The Workings Of A Niche Perfume House: Etat Libre d'Orange {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez who is the in-house nose for Jean Patou has created an anniversary fragrance for Procter & Gamble Prestige Products' 15th anniversary. P & G acquired Jean Patou in 2001. It is called Coming Up Roses and showcases a central note of Bulgarian Rose. Duriez based his inspiration on the fragrance name borrowed from Stephen Sondheim's song Everything's Coming Up Roses: "Things look swell, things look great, Gonna have the whole world on a plate. Starting here, starting now Honey, everything's coming up roses.". Other notes include Ambrette oil, pear, white flowers, lily, white musk. Says Duriez "I think of P&G Prestige Products as the rose and the fragrance ‘Coming Up Roses' as the dew on the petals." Read more......
A corner in Serge Lutens' garden in Marrakech The Guerlains, Edmond Roudnitska are famous for having drawn constant inspiration from private gardens they cultivated and spent time in daily. To follow the development of the scents of flowers at different times of the day and over the days of a season is simply fascinating as this permits to better grasp the complexity of their ever-evolving olfactory personalities. The Telegraph offers readers the possibility to step into these universes by catching glimpses of the gardens of several perfumers including Serge Lutens, Antonia Bellanca, Roudnitska and more.....
Continue reading "Perfumers' Gardens {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Poulnabrone Dolmen, County Clare, the Burren by elsa 11 The Irish Independent has a paper on small independent perfumer Sadie Chowen-Doyle owner of the Burren Perfumery in County Clare, in the Burren. Happenstance made her fall in love with the place and later be employed in a local perfumery headed by an ex-priest. She stayed on and became a perfumer,
"Perfumers, ‘noses’ or ‘aromancers’ are akin to modern-day alchemists, combining equal parts science and magic to craft new aromas. They work surrounded by rows of bottles, sampling smells on a strip and attempting to combine them to create their desired effect. Chowen-Doyle travelled to France to train with Sylvie Jourdain, a well-known nose for Dior......
Continue reading "A Perfumery in the Burren {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
Kerala Monsoon Holidays: "Showers of passion" and "Sometimes it takes water to kindle a fire" in the Sunday supplement of Times of India (Bangalore Edition) via Tamizhan There is a piece in the New York Times about perfumer Jean Claude Ellena travelling in Kerala to find inspiration for his new scent Un Jardin Après La Mousson (A Garden After the Monsoon), a genre of detailed biographical perfume reporting inaugurated by journalist Chandler Burr, of the NYT too, with the same perfumer and for the same Jardin series of fragrances by Hermès. In this latest installment, this time by Phoebe Eaton,.....
Continue reading "Travelogue on Kerala & Un Jardin Après La Mousson {The 5th Sense in the News}" »
 There is an interview with perfumer Annick Menardo in the Malaysian newspaper New Straits Times around the Diesel duo of fragrances. We thought in particular that it was interesting to learn that Diesel for Men was inspired by an anise and lavender balm that brand owner Renzo Rosso had Menardo smell. Interesting because it explicitly states that fine fragrances can derive inspiration from toiletry products and their scents.....
Continue reading "Interview with Annick Menardo in the New Straits Times {The 5th Sense in the News} - The Vague Toiletry Scent Trend? {Scented Thoughts} {Trend Alert}" »
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